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All About the Benjamins


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not to sound like an ass, but shouldn't you have chose your cam based on whether you are going n/a or turbo?

 

I'm not sure about honda's and companies that grind their own cams, but with most builds you want a cam with little to no valve overlap, and usually a split duration (ie different lift/duration on exhaust/intake lobes).

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my bad.

now that I read it again, I see that he was listing the parts they found while inspecting the head.

 

 

 

also the lighter springs won't destroy a valvetrain quickly, really heavy ones will. He will just float the valves easier because of the steep ramps and higher lift.

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so will i be ok with the skunk 2 cams for now?? they came with the motor, i didn't really have a choice...

 

what should i buy in the future to help the motor stay healthy? crower valve springs/retainers?

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If your doing a N/A I would say Crower stage lll all motor cams and Crower valve srings and retainers. If you decide to go turbocharged like Chuby wuby you should prolly ither stay with the cams you have and get new valve springs and retainers(crower).

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ok. this is what's happening:

 

a kid in town with an lsvtec integra, type-r IM, intake, header, exhaust is already talking sh!t, and it's pissing me off....i mean, after working my ass off for this the least he could do is congradulate me and encourage me, but no. he says the best i'll run is mid-15 1/4 mile.

 

he ran a 13.2 with drag slicks, stripped everything, launching from the rev limiter....without slicks he ran a 13.8.

 

my motor in a civic ran a 12.9 on slicks with an un-chipped ecu. my ecu will be chipped, therefore helping the power gains even more.

 

what kind of race do you think this will be?

 

H22A DA w/ fully built head, I/H/E, chipped ECU, full race MM vs. LSVTEC integra, I/H/E, type-r IM?

 

Do i have a chance of running better than a 15.5 at the track?

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wait how could you jump from a 12.9 et to a 15 withouth slicks and a chip?

 

i dunno i think he's just scared i'll tear him a new rectum...

 

that lsvtec doesn't seem that built up

 

it's not...b18b1 block, b18c1 head, itr IM....lame

 

When you gonna change than sig of yours 90?

 

sh!t i should do that soon...i will when the swap is over and it fires up for the first time...it's still not legit till it actually runs...

 

i think i'm just gonna start in 3rd gear from a dig, purposely lose, then when he gets out of his car after the race, run him over, then run him over in reverse. then he'll shut his mouth.

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Man Im happy for you it seems like youve been working hard for this and you deserve it. Your car will be awesome and it deserves it too from what ive read.

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Man Im happy for you it seems like youve been working hard for this and you deserve it. Your car will be awesome and it deserves it too from what ive read.

 

thanks dude, i've worked my ass off for 2 1/2 years to keep this car running, now finally something has gone right.

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So hows it coming?

 

well, it's alright i guess.

 

Motor Mounts aren't here for 5-6 more days, i'm ordering a obd-0 to obd-1 conversion harness tonight for $270...damn that sucks ass.

 

i found a pedal assembly out of a civic hatch that i'm gonna use, i have the chipped P28 ecu.

 

I need a honda accord mid-shaft and inner joint passenger side from an accord axle....then it's 100% ready to go.

 

Once the motor mounts are in it's a fairly simple swap apparently. all i have to do is move the passenger side chassis mount over 2 inches and hammer a 1 inch dent into a piece of pointless metal to fit the tranny in, then i'm good to go.

 

F/S- 2 Hasport Motor Mounts (driver and passenger chassis mounts) for a H22 into a Civic hatch. Best offer.

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