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where are thw fabricators at?


Raley

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suspension is all us

 

front is uneven a arm

 

drivetrain decided on a swing arm / solid axle is the rear (WTF i know).. i wanted IRS from the start but im not on the team (thankfully)

 

 

 

 

for some reason our advisor said the rear suspension was drivetrains choice so yah

 

 

 

endurance track (there are also other dynamic/static events) will have like 1000ft of an M shaped water thing.. jumps.. rocks.. logs.. etc etc

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id do a soild rear end... sorta dirtbike/quad style... it will be lighter then irs...don't even put suspension on the front... just alil less air in the front tires... tell your guys to put a lil patting in there pants and stfu.

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lower gearing, bigger tires... then you can make it over everything and still have a good speed...

 

id mount the engine and rear axle on its own piviting part and then hook the suspension to that... old school style but very light.

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the swing arm is its own pivot.. engine is on back of chassis

 

cant afford new tires.. the ones we have are 22 in tread to tread

 

gearing is all within the cvt.. a lot of teams do really well with the cvt.. we just have to make sure its sealed up nice and good so the belts dont get wet

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have you strapped flotation on your atv and put fenders on the back and see if propelled you through the water well? lol

 

i have a feeling its going to be MUDDY and fun

 

 

kinda what we are going to have to do:

 

except this year its an m shaped course with more water instead of just a lake thing to drive through

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  • 2 months later...

looking good so far, however one thing you might want to look at doing is putting a cross brace on the front suspension mount box. Are you guys going to put in a belly pan or run open? If you are going to skin then I would recomend riveting alumnium sheet instead of welding steel plate. And for the sides look into using coroplast, its super lightweight, tough, flexible, and easy to work with. To mount it all you need to do is cut it into the shape, punch a few holes, and zip tie it to the chassis. and if you havent done it already foam fill your bars with expanding foam. It adds a little rigidity to them, but more importantly keeps water out.

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we have to cap the ends of the open tubes

 

we are running .025 inch aluminum on the sides and rear roll hoop.. and a steel skid plate on the bottom.. rivets for all of it.. and the float on the bottom has to have a skid plate as well

 

no zip ties or velcro allowed

 

 

 

 

 

 

I hate the difference with the rear and front track widths.. drive train actually wants to bring the rear in even more.. they think it will be more "stable" closer together or something like that.. fantastic engineering decision right?

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well you dont want all 4 wheels inline with eachother, ideally you want the rear wheels closer together or farther apart by 5-10% of the chassis length to aid with turn in.

 

for the side plates look into using the coroplast, its alot less expensive and you can rivet it on, you will just need to use fender washers to help spread the load.

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our front track width (outside tire to outside tire) is right about 60 inches

 

 

they want the rear between 42 inches and 45 inches

 

noooooo too narrow, the narrowest I would put it at would be 50', any narrower than that and you loose stability and increase oversteer.

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noooooo too narrow, the narrowest I would put it at would be 50', any narrower than that and you loose stability and increase oversteer.

 

everyone knows this but them

 

 

 

ill make sure to record the first couple testings and see how long it takes to roll it or for them to spin out.. or any other funny

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we bent our first tube last week of jan/beginning of feb. and are that far...

 

and since you wouldnt have to work with people in my group you could probably get it done faster if you had the tools to do it lol

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