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currently using castrol syntec 5-30 does anybody feel our engines run better with one more than another. I have heard good things about royal purple and amsoil. Changing it tomorrow any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks

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Amsoil is good but expensive. Kendall is good and less expensive. As far as readily available oil goes though based on the vescosity break down sampling that we have done at our shop Kendall and Castrol go head to head. Go ahead and experiment. All three are good but I personally would stay away from Valvoline, Mobile, Shell and all the others.

 

If you are up for experimenting you can drop down to a 5W20, this will decrease the amount of load on the engine because the oil pump will have to work less hard. Just be sure that you don't start getting a low end knocking sound (more then likely wont happen if your engine is tight). If you do go back to the 5W30. We will run 5w20 in all the 5w30 engines at the shop especially in the winter but more often then not year round.

 

Have fun playing.

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two best ones on market would be castrol edge (full syn.) and royal purple

 

my bro in law swears by edge but i prefer royal purple.. i ran the edge my last oil change and im switching back to royal purple when my oil gets changed tomorrow

 

 

there really isnt a "best" oil.. it all comes down to what study you believe and personal opinion

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two best ones on market would be castrol edge (full syn.) and royal purple

 

my bro in law swears by edge but i prefer royal purple.. i ran the edge my last oil change and im switching back to royal purple when my oil gets changed tomorrow

 

 

there really isnt a "best" oil.. it all comes down to what study you believe and personal opinion

x2 i use Royal Purple. Did one of the best in this independent oil bearing wear test. Plus you can buy it at the store.

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and before anyone gets all butt hurt that i didnt say amsoil or anything i normally recommend oils found in regular stores before a $10+/qt for an average person who also might not to order it

 

there is also a very good oil but you have to order it from japan.. cant remember the name.. starts with a t?

 

 

but for better then regular go with royal purple IMO.. it also has a polishing effect to it.. so the scaring your motor has already will be smoother

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but for better then regular go with royal purple IMO.. it also has a polishing effect to it.. so the scaring your motor has already will be smoother

 

 

Plating effect really. High moly and zinc levels create a plating effect. Any oil will do this though and the only ones that really have enough moly and zinc to have any appreciable affect on existing cylinder wear are "break in" formulations and maybe some HDEO's.

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Lots of good points, I know my boss swears by Amsoil... And if everything I've heard about it is true, it probably is just about the best out there. It really depends on how much you're willing to spend. Getting the cheapest oil out there and changing it every 3k or fewer miles will keep your engine running fine just as well as a full synthetic changed every 5k or 10k miles. The synthetics would probably help out a little with gas mileage or sludge if your engine has a problem, but in the end it pretty much comes down to how much you want to spend on changes, and how often you want to deal with it. If you've got a fat wallet and don't want to mess with it, go with Amsoil. Not sure how much I'd trust their oil change schedule though... ever 1 year 25k miles you change the filter and add a quart? That just sounds a little overboard to me... However, most of what I know about Amsoil is just hear-say.

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Cost is really the best way to choose an oil: find the best value. If you are buying a $7 - $10 per quart oil and changing it more often than needed then you are throwing money away because, in all reality, you aren't getting the benefit of added wear protection anymore than you would with a good dino oil. I switch between Penzoil Platinum and Mobil 1 depending on which one I find a good deal on, usually some 2-for-1 deal. I don't do extended drain intervals so it really doesn't matter if one has a few ppm more moly or one has a higher TBN so it isn't worth wasting money. Ran Delo 400 or Rotella in my daily dirvers, good oil, not much money.

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Amsoil!

 

Yes it may cost more initially, buy how many other oils out there are GUARANTEED for 25,000 mile/1 Year drain intervals. Royal Purple only recommends 12,000 drains with a filter change every 3/5000 miles.

 

Do the math. Everyone thinks Amsoil is crazy expensive, and yes it may be initially but in the long run it is a big savings. I wouldn't put any other oils/greases/additives in anything I own except Amsoil.

 

KnowTheFacts.gif

 

 

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mobil 1 used to be the leader.. until things like royal purple and castrol came into the stores

 

 

 

Still is a very good oil and I'm far from convinced Castrol, or Penzoil for that matter, is better overall by any significant margin so it just depends on which I find cheapest. Mobil 1 gets a bad rap from armchair oil "experts" who don't know enough about any oil to criticize one against another anyway. Porsche and Mercedes use Mobil 1 as factory fills and I know of some true experts who think very highly of it. RP, AMSoil, etc should be better oils.....they cost a lot more. That said I haven't seen a high mileage test that justifies the premium. For engines that actually see racing service....maybe...but I'd probably run a synthetic HDEO as many do because they offer similar performance for less than half the cost. Mobil, Shell, Castrol, and others make very good oils and plenty of people have had very good results with them.

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And before anyone brings up the Castrol/Mobil-don't-make-true-synthetic-oils arguments. Shell produces oil for Ferrari's Formula 1 program by hydrocracked dino basestocks. In fact, some of the latest oils out are synthetics made from mineral oils with no Group IV/V content.

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Do the math. Everyone thinks Amsoil is crazy expensive, and yes it may be initially but in the long run it is a big savings. I wouldn't put any other oils/greases/additives in anything I own except Amsoil.

 

 

You really should do the math. A guy on BITOG put together a very nice cost analysis on running AMSoil against another using more realistic figures. I think it took a very extreme situation to put AMSoil in the better buy category. If I was using my data I would spend about $70 for 5 oil changes on conventional oil except I wouldn't be paying shipping charges and nobody in their right mind leaves an oil filter on for 25,000 miles.

 

 

 

 

This site is new but should be publishing some good information in the near future.

 

Petroleum Quality Institute of America

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yeah im sorry man, but there is no way i would leave the same filter/oil in for a year or 25k miles. then again when i do oil changes I drain oil, pour in a few quarts, run car through a couple of cycles (ignition disabled), then redrain, new filter and fill. I also flush and fill rad, do my trans fluid, and flush and fill my brake lines once a year. sometimes twice a year if i have been hard on her. I guess you can call me the fluid Nazi.

Edited by cmgogo
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You really should do the math. A guy on BITOG put together a very nice cost analysis on running AMSoil against another using more realistic figures. I think it took a very extreme situation to put AMSoil in the better buy category. If I was using my data I would spend about $70 for 5 oil changes on conventional oil except I wouldn't be paying shipping charges and nobody in their right mind leaves an oil filter on for 25,000 miles.

 

 

 

 

This site is new but should be publishing some good information in the near future.

 

Petroleum Quality Institute of America

 

 

Alright I'll play along.

We'll base this on a 25,000 mile service cycle on an SRT-4.

 

Amsoil 25,000 or 1 year drain

 

Amsoil 10w-30 oil. Link.......... $8.70 x 5qts = $43.50

Amsoil EA Filter EA034 Link......... $17.30 x 1ea = $17.30

 

Total = $60.80

 

Mobil 1 3,000/5000 Mile Drain (total 24,000/25,000 miles)

 

Mobil 1 10w-30 oil Link........... $6.99 x 5qts = $34.95

Mobil 1 Filter M1-209 Link........... $12.99 x 1ea = $12.99

 

Total = $47.94

x 8 Changes = $383.52

x 5 Changes = $239.70

 

 

Valucraft 3,000/5,000 mile drain (total 24,000/25,000 miles)

 

Valucraft 10w-30 motor oil Link.......... $2.99 x 5qts = $14.95

Fram Oil Filter PH-3600 Link........... $4.19 x 1ea = $4.19

 

Total = $19.14

x 8 Changes = $153.12

x 5 Changes = $ 95.70

 

 

Thats as real as it gets.

 

If your worried about the filter,

 

Amsoil 10w-30 Oil $8.70 x 5qts = $43.50

Amsoil EA Filter EA034 $17.30 x 18ea = $311.40

 

Total = $354.90

 

Thats right 18 filter changes and still less than Mobil 1 on a 3,000 mile drain interval.

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LOL...wow you you really know how to spin things. You should work for AMSoil with those numbers.

 

Right off the bat you forgot to figure in the more than $10 shipping and tax for 5 qts of the AMSoil you listed.

 

And I'll be generous assuming you'll at least change the filter at least once during that 25k miles as you actually do care about your little Skittle.

 

You're looking at closer to $95 in total and that's assuming shipping and tax for my area. SLC pays a bit more for tax. Now you might get a little savings if you were smart and bought a 1 gallon jug as that brings it to around $8.53/quart and adding a separate 1-quart bottle. You'd wind up at about $8.56/quart not including tax and shipping. Oh, and you get that nice 1-gallon jug to put your used oil back into so you can drop it off at the recycling center later. Are you thinking about this stuff yet kid?

 

Nobody in their right mind does Mobil 1 synthetic on a 3000/5000 mile OCI. I do 5000 mile OCI's with regular conventional motor oil (Castrol GTX 5W-30). Mobil even has a 5000 mile rated conventional oil, I'd probably go to 6,000 miles with it. Let's try 12,000 miles as that's reasonable and fairly common practice with that oil (Mercedes has a 15,000 mile OCI with Mobil 1 synthetic in 5W-30 in the CLK 350's btw. Jaguar too.)

 

So that's 2 OCI's and we'll be buying Mobil 1 10W-30 in the 5 quart jugs since Autozone carries those for $28.99 (which with tax comes to $6.27/qt) means a total of $62.70 for the 10 quarts of oil. I'll add on a quart for topping up. Another thing you didn't consider with your AMSoil purchase unless you honestly believe a turbocharged motor doesn't burn even a slight amount of oil. Total is $68.97 for 11 quarts of oil including tax here.

 

Going with that same filter (why you wouldn't use the OEM filter which is actually very good for your car is beyond me and a hell of a lot cheaper) that's $28.12 for two filters.

 

Total cost is $97.09.

 

I'm not even going to bother with the Valucraft as I know you couldn't be retarded enough to pay $3/quart when you can get Wal-Mart's Super Tech oil (which is actually pretty good oil) for cheaper.

 

 

Pretty much a break even deal cost wise. So THAT is taking a real world approach to this and not a bunch of idealized assumptions that make you sound like you've never actually changed your own motor oil. This isn't of course taking advantage of sales and specials which often make Mobil 1 around $4.xx/quart. I got Penzoil Platinum 2-for-1 and a free filter last time I bought oil. I seriously doubt you'd could get that with AMSoil. Hell they don't even cut a very good deal if you become a distributor (a friend and I actually considered becoming an AMSoil dealer until we figured up that we wouldn't be saving enough money to be worth the trouble). So the most you can say is that you save the labor of changing your oil once. Maybe that's worth a few dollars in savings but I usually take the opportunity to inspect things so I don't mind doing an oil change.

 

So examining all of this shows you don't know how to buy oil and that you seem to like pay the most possible. Maybe that little AMSoil sticker is worth it to you? :happy:

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That explains a lot. Forget the stickers, he get's the hats and t-shirts.... :laugh:

 

 

 

 

AMSoil makes great oil, I've used their 2-stroke stuff and looked into what they have for Sea-doo jet boats. Their whole cost savings deal is a bunch of crap though. Only way you are really making those kind of savings is if you are running a diesel with a 12 - 15 qt. capacity and their huge bypass filtration setups. Then you are buying oil in bulk containers and buying a filter setup that can easily last the full OCI. Even then you'd have to go through an OCI to break even. I've been keeping up with this stuff since the late 1990's and still haven't found it cost worthy to buy AMSoil for my vehicles.

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Amsoil is GREAT but expensive..

fixed & +1!

 

amsoil ftmfw

true story!!

 

two best ones on market would be castrol edge (full syn.) and royal purple

amsoil > royal purple > mobil 1 full syn > edge

 

 

amsoil is garunteed better than royal purple.. it lasts maximum of 25,000 miles yes it costs $100 an oil change but if you figure it out its cheaper than alot of different oils because it lasts soo long and if you actually did go 25k miles that would be roughly 8 oil changes at 3k miles.. 8 oil changes @ $30 would come out to be $240.. so amsoil is actually pretty damn cheap..

 

oh and the shop i go to actually did a test on royal purple vs amsoil and the amsoil gained 3whp over royal purple.. so.. AMSOIL FTMFW!!!

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i use castrol syntec. i get the best results with it. no leaks, 6.99 a quart. and 12 for a mobil 1 oil filter. i change about every 4500 miles.i get the same results with castrol edge. i will no longer use mobil 1 oil, it caused quite a bit of "knocking" to be heard and the car constantly ran rough. i have yet to try royal purple, with 170,000+ miles im afraid ill find an unwanted leak lol. i hear they say that RP contains too much detergent?

 

amsoil.....yeah its good, but i wont pay SH&H and then wait for it to get here...if it was a high performance car then yes i can see doing so.

 

all of this really depends on what you want out of the car. if its not high performance, then why waste the money? thats just my view

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amsoil > royal purple > mobil 1 full syn > edge

 

 

That's not true at all. Depending on the engine and type of driving any of those oils could fall in any order.

 

 

This is a very good article on oil formulations. Long but it explains why there is no such thing as a best oil by brand.

 

What motor oil is best for my aircooled Porsche? (or any high performance engine)

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That's not true at all. Depending on the engine and type of driving any of those oils could fall in any order.

 

 

This is a very good article on oil formulations. Long but it explains why there is no such thing as a best oil by brand.

 

What motor oil is best for my aircooled Porsche? (or any high performance engine)

 

it all depends on what you want out of the car :D. why use royal purple or amsoil in a beater car that is bound to die anyways? then again why use autozone brand in a auto x car? kinda self explanatory lol. but your right

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