Jump to content

Official General Photography Thread


chris(pa)

Recommended Posts

a I see...niiice built! making a game? can I play? I'll let you play the rpg I made once...lol

 

props to knowing/liking programming...I did some and I just didn't wanna do it...hard and long task...

 

EDIT: just realized I'm thread jacking...sorry!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 584
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Pretty nice. Are you gonna use any teleconverters for it for extra reach? What types of things are you planning on shooting with the lens? I can't hardly wait until I get enough saved up for the 80-200 2.8 or 70-200 2.8 vr. I'll probably have a 1.4 or 1.7tc attached for wildlife a lot of the time since 200 just isn't enough reach a lot of times.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join some photography forums and read up on tutorials. I've learned so much in the past 2 months from those two methods that it's crazy. I already knew about aperatures/shutter speeds/iso and how they work together, but I've learned a lot about composition, flash sync speeds and reasons to shoot full manual when using flash. Controlling ambient and flash light, etc..... There's so much to learn on the subject just through the web that you can really get a good jump start. You could also look into a book called "understanding exposure". Very good book that gets a lot of great reviews.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pretty nice. Are you gonna use any teleconverters for it for extra reach? What types of things are you planning on shooting with the lens? I can't hardly wait until I get enough saved up for the 80-200 2.8 or 70-200 2.8 vr. I'll probably have a 1.4 or 1.7tc attached for wildlife a lot of the time since 200 just isn't enough reach a lot of times.

 

I plan on using it around the city for things like candids, and whatever opportunity 70-200mm might bring me. It should also be nice when for vacations. Just a whole new way to compose things. I don't think I'll be using any teleconverters, as I'd rather have f/4 all the time instead of f/5.6. I might buy some Kenko tubes for some macro work. Eventually I'll have the 70-200 f/2.8L IS, but that shouldn't be for awhile. 17-40 f/4L is next for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

forums are cool but i've learned most from trial and error. i may have to look into a few forums. Hung you suggest any?

 

If you shoot Nikon (all are welcome actually), check out nikoncafe.com. Huge network of mainly nikon shooters though all photographers welcome. There's tons to learn on there and you can get some great critiques of photos you shoot by some real pros. I'll track down some of the things I've read on the net to learn up and pm them to you. Trial and error can only take you so far. For example, trial and error can't teach you the correlation of how a shutter speed control's the ambient light when using flash...how to set your shutter speed, etc....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Turning down your ISO will be very helpful lol. And using full manual will help you learn a good bit faster than auto all the time.

That's exactly what I did. lol

 

Those pics were in full manual with ISO at 100 I believe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking at the exif data, the iso ranges from 200-400 so you must have auto iso on. Still they seem a little grainier than I'd expect with ISO 400. They are also underexposed a good bit which is a result of you shooting full manual. This gives a good effect on the first photo (silhouette) but the others seem off because of that. For those types of shots (properly) you need a tripod, and shoot in shutter priority with a shutter speed around 1-2 seconds or shoot aperature priority mode with an aperature between 8-12.

 

Edit: Those are the settings that I would have started with. I'd probably start with aperature priority mode unless I'm shooting traffic and need the light "tracks".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

P&S cameras will always have more noise because the sensors are small. Bigger sensor = less noise. You can download a program for free called Noiseware that helps remove noise, and lets you keep as much detail as possible. Works pretty well.

 

I would have gone out a little earlier to take sunset pics when the sky is brighter, as most of your pics seem a tad underexposed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea, its the powershot. I had it in full manual with ISO at 80-100-200 I believe. Maybe 400 for one or two. Vivid colors. Shutter speed 1-3 seconds. Aperature 8 I believe. It doesn't go any higher than that.

I did use a tripod (a little 6" one though). I need to buy a bigger one. The first pic is the only one I didn't use the tripod.

And I did take those pics kinda late, so yeah, the lighting is fairly dark, but accurate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your shutter speed was not 1-3 seconds. Most are around 1/60 or slower and the highest aperature that I saw on your photos was 6.xx Apparently your camera doesn't let you have full control.

 

For example, your second photo was shot at 1/80th second, f6.3, ISO 200. Thats way to fast a shutter speed for those conditions. Set it in shutter priority to 2 seconds on a tripod and see what you get.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't wait until Canon introduces their new models on the 24th. Depending on how good the 5D MKII (or whatever they call it) is, I might just have to pick one up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use | Privacy Policy | Guidelines
We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.