Kegger Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Those are Jpeg. The one of his girlfriend and grandma were originally RAW or .NEF format. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris(pa) Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 You can't host RAW files You have to convert them to compressed file (there's a bunch, i.e. jpg, tiff, png, gif...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sup Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 RAW files are like digital negatives, can't do much with them until you post-process them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kegger Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 And let me guess.... You need PS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sup Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 If your camera can shoot RAW, then it more than likely came with its own software to process RAW files. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kegger Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Okay, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kegger Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Got it. Here's some that I took today of my PA. Lightly touched up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sup Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Lets see some .50 cals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Nikon doesn't supply a raw editor with most of their cameras. The D300 and D3 both come with software though. Nikon Capture NX is the best raw editor for Nikon since it saves the settings as they were shot so you only have to do minor tweaking to get the photo the way you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Sorry..missed that. Exif is the data that's stored in the picture file that shows the settings from the camera. Download a program called Opanda (do a google search for their website) and then you can right click any picture and click "View Exif" and it will show you the settings that were taken on a picture. Some people remove their exif data so it won't always work, but it will on those who don't strip the exif out of there pictures. You can also get plugins after you install it for Firefox. Oh, and shutter speed will not effect graininess. That's a result of the iso. The trick though is that a higher iso will let you have a quicker shutter speed for lower light conditions. For example a shot in low light at f1.8 with ISO 200 may give me a shutter speed of 1/20 and I might have a hard time keeping from getting motion/camera shake blur. If I crank it up to ISO 800 or ISO 1200 then I might be able to get a shutter speed at 1.8 of around 1/60 or 1/80 and will be easier to keep from having blur in the picture. With a tripod, use a low ISO since you don't have to worry about camera shake, but when hand holding in low light without a flash use the smallest f-stop with a higher iso to keep your shutter speed faster. Grainy pictures>Blurry pictures everytime. There's an actual equation that shows you how much your shutter speed will change by changing the ISO, but it's really unimportant in my opinion. When shooting low light, I shoot f1.8 (very narrow DOF when shooting close up) and auto iso with shutter speed minimum at 1/60. This will let the camera auto set my iso and shutter speed but will adjust the iso to keep the shutter at 1/60th or faster. This is done in aperature priority mode and you won't have most of the options that I have when using your point and shoot. Edit: I'm still pretty much a photo newbie. While there is a lot I know and understand about cameras, I've been at it heavy for less than 6 months. So.... hopefully I made things clear and accurate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kegger Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Lets see some .50 cals Wait for this summer and I'll get pics of .50 cals, 40 mm grenade launchers, LAW rocket launchers. Anything your heart desires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 I just explained it above your post......specefically about the ISO. The f-number is the aperature. Lower number F-stop higher aperature (larger the opening on the lens. The lower the number, the smaller the depth of field (area in focus). For example, this picture of my son a page back or so. Here's one playing with f1.8 and window light. My son wasn't very amused. Was shot at f1.8 which gave a very small area in focus. Notice how the focus was on his left (camera right) eye. The eyes are in focus (left eye moreso) and the nose and rest of his head are out of focus. This is primarily because I was shooting at large aperature..... f1.8. If I had shot at f4 or f8 then his entire head would have been in focus, but my shutter speed would have been slower to allow the same light and it would have been blurry. Plus the effect of a shallow depth of field makes the subject stand out more by the background being really blurry. Generally a lens will get sharper the higher the f-stop (smaller the aperature) which is why you shoot at a higher aperature outdoors (sunny 16 rule). Shooting f16 in the sun will still have a fast shutter speed but will have a large DOF and much sharper than shooting at f4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sup Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Indoor test shot with the 70-200. Straight from the camera, all I did was set the white balance. 100% Crop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kegger Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Dayum... Edit: WannaB, a good book that I have that helped out and explained alot of the basic of this hobby is Total Digital Photography by Chris George. Very informative and will teach you the correlation between all the settings and how to do just about everything needed for a great photo. From composing the shot to editing the final product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatch92 Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Indoor test shot with the 70-200. Straight from the camera, all I did was set the white balance. 100% Crop damn dude nice shots Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuddySol Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 My brother has some kind of SLR, I'm guessing a Canon. Most of his stuff is all hobby and what not...then makes money on the side by getting into clubs for free and taking pictures of the patrons for various websites. As much as I want to take awesome pics, I think I'll stick with my point and shoot, Panasonic TZ-1. It's decent enough, I'd say, altho not as many manual adjustments as my old Konica...but you can't go wrong with 10x optical with stabilization on a point and shoot: View from the Alumni Section at Notre Dame The scoreboard on the other side of the field The Trojan Marching Band playing Conquest for the USC section on the other side of the field Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kegger Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 LOL Game starts with a huge crowd, and ends with like 8 people there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Ok thanks guys.I know you went through a lot of trouble explaining it to me Hung, but what I am getting out of it is that the (fX.X) is generally the depth of field (DOF). Lower # = less depth Larger # = more depth If it's more complicated than that, then I'm better off not knowing.-_- I'm reading the manual more right now. And sorry this is such a thread jack. I'll delete a few posts later. While that's correct, it is more complicated. Lower f# = less depth, but lower f# also = faster shutter speed (which is important indoors and low light). ISO, aperature, and shutter speed work together. Change one and the others will have to change to compensate. Think of it as ways to gather light since that's what a camera does. ISO is the sensor's sensitivity to light Aperature is how big the hole on the lens that receives the light (lower f-stop, bigger hole) Shutter speed is how long the sensor can gather light The three work hand in hand really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Bump, for a link to some great photography tutorials. There's one on ISO half way down that explains it really well. Read these tutorials and practice them and you'll learn a lot. Photography Tutorials Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sup Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 Nothing really special about these shots, but I had half an hour to kill before my train left. It's been cloudy, cold, and wet here all week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sup Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 G35 Coupe pan I did today. With this lens I barely have to do any post-processing, I love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buddy Cole Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 here are some picture i took on a snowboarding trip to mt hood in oregon. a neighbors donkey that lives near my cabin in washinton. a walk way that i helped build that leads down to the lake during the summer anothe neighbors cabin that looks like a barn same walkway different angle here is mt hood in the early morning. this was a prelude to an epic day of snowboarding. a foot of fresh powder, clear sunny day and not that many people. best season in 20+ years. i timed it juusst right. a view from the top of mt hood Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sup Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 Wow, really nice shots guys! How did you take that shot of the G35, sup? Panning. Move the camera with the path of the car while keeping focus on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatch92 Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 no you can stand on the side of the road or be in a car. as long ad you keep focusing on the car it'll stay clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris(pa) Posted January 15, 2008 Author Share Posted January 15, 2008 ISO3200 (added some grain too to add to the feel) Sorry, dynamic pages in the tags are not allowed WTF does that mean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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