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lastresort576

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so today i went to mount up the turbo so i can run the hot-side charge pipes and when i went to do this i ran into a slight problem...the wastegate hits the front lower tq. mount and a slightly raised part of the o2 housing is hitting the clutch bleeder valve. this kinda sucks as a set back because if i need a new manifold i cant exactly afford it at the moment...ohwell all in due time!

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I don't really know what it looks like, but is there a way to put something in between to stop them? like rubber?

 

my intake was eating away rubber on the line under it and I just put a piece of hard thick rubber around it...

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I don't really know what it looks like, but is there a way to put something in between to stop them? like rubber?

 

my intake was eating away rubber on the line under it and I just put a piece of hard thick rubber around it...

 

 

its hitting both parts before, the manifold is flush with the head...im thinkin ill be able to grind down the 'bubble'/extra material on the o2 housing to make that side fit. as for the front tq. mount, for some reason i think the cars w/o p/s utilize a smaller bracket, if so i have one kicking around someplace...if theres no difference i think ill be grinding down however much i need to on the mount to make it fit with a tiny bit of clearance.

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  • 2 months later...

Well here's a bit of an update.

 

dsm 450's= Installed

resistor box= Installed

charge pipes= Done and Installed

turbo mated to manifold= Installed

Down pipe= Done and Installed.

walbro 255lph high pressure= Installed

oil feed line= Installed

 

 

Pretty much all thats left to do which will be done tomorrow/tomorrow night,(after work) is:

1) Make and install a vented catch-can,

2) Weld oil return bung onto oil pan,

3) Install bov on charge pipe,

4) Chip ECU/install hondalog

5) Hook up datalogging wires from the Aem Uego to the wire harness

6) Hook up all vacuum lines.

 

A video of the sol running slightly rich. Stock P28 tune with dsm 450cc injectors (Wideband read out at idle was 10 and thats as low as it goes, 3k rpm 10.8afr)

th_DSCF0652.jpg

 

OEM Resistor box & wireing .

DSCF0651.jpg

DSCF0657.jpg

DSCF0659.jpg

DSM 450's installed(took a while to get the seals bored out correctly)

DSCF0649.jpg

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As of 11:30'ish tonight sunday august 24th 2008 the del sol is boosted. and besides a minor set back of leaving the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line disconnetced( running it like this will run/idle steady @ 4k-rpms lol), I got it right on the first try! No leaks of fluid or boost!

 

The sol pulls ALOT better now and the sound of the 1st-Gen DSM BOV is pretty tits! Now I was originally under the impression that the T25's internal wastegate spring was an 8lbs. spring, and the eclipse's ecu had a built in electronic boost controller to raise it to 15psi...anyways, my boost gauge is reading around 15psi, but thats still with out a hard pull. Reason being, I keep popping off boost couplers which will be taken care of tomorrow.

 

Also i have to say xencron who did my custom basemap pretty much got it right on the money! @ cruise (-20 Hmg) i stay right around 14.4 AFR and around 12-13 AFR @ WOT. the only issue is when I get to the VTEC area and the car trys to pull timing and it falls on its face...still no big deal thats what the tuning equipment is for.

 

Videos of the initial 4KRPM start, 2nd start where it ran money, and a fly by sorta will be up at some point tomorrow...Oh and the car's exhaust note sounds a million times better too.

 

Thanx to all who gave me good deals on parts, keeping this build after the small odds and ends purchased around the $850 mark!!

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  • 2 months later...

wow gues i havent updated this..

 

well the sol has been down sine 2 days after i got it boosted.

 

ran into having no spark, pissing fuel out the muffler..my wideband was pinned at 10afr so it was im gonna guess like 8afr... went to a gm 3-bar map sensor since 15psi is too much for a stock one and figured that could have been my issue..nope. i've tried a different ecu..but i still think thats the issue at hand we'll see. ive got a CEL that wont de-code and the car runs lopey with it timed at TDC instead of 16* BTDC a slight issue...oh and i was getting alot of blue smoke coming out of the exhaust on start up. now im no longer pissing out fuel...a lil on the lean side, and still sorta have the blue smoke.

 

so yesterday i finally sak'd up and did a compression test on my engine to make sure its still kosher...well heres the results:

 

Cyl.

#1: 152psi

#2: 152psi

#3: 152psi

#4: 152psi

#5: 0psi

 

So i certainly cant complain about those results one bit. and my plugs are no longer all carbon fouled from running mad rich. nice and clean like they should be.

 

so heres some video's of the way it currently runs:

http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i54/last...nt=DSCF0696.flv

http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i54/last...nt=DSCF0697.flv

http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i54/last...nt=DSCF0698.flv

http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i54/last...nt=DSCF0699.flv

http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i54/last...nt=DSCF0700.flv

http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i54/last...nt=DSCF0701.flv

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Surely you're not running a stock trans. I didn't notice a trans section in your original post. Is this the mutt trans with the mixed up gears inside? What was it? d16z6 1st and 2nd, y7 2nd as 3rd? Or something?

 

btw, nice call on the alpines. :thumbsup:

 

me: cda-9847 deck, alpine type-s fronts, infinity reference 6x9's, running on mtx amp. MTX thunder 7500 10" on MTX 421D monoblock (420 rms @ 2 ohms)

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  • 3 weeks later...

I bought from a guy on jdmcc.com a xenocron chipped ecu + 16g basemap and well yea I Finally no longer have a CEL and the timing is where its supposed to be for the most part...the belt is now off a tooth so its on the first of three marks on the crank pulley and the dizzy is turned all the way towards the front of the car, so ill have to re-do the T-Belt because i didnt do th tension corretly the last time but hey W/E no big deal, the head ache is OVER!

 

i'll have some videos up at some point thats Fo'Sho

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  • 2 months later...

Bump...My build needs some love. Anyways I got this accomplished tonight.

 

In order to fix my oil burning issue that I originally thought was the valve seals(still could be) I did some research.

 

Come to find out having a vented catch-can works yes maybe not as good as a vacuum one whether it be the slash cut method or pre-turbo. Well when i installed the catch-can I made i left the PCV valve in place in order to connect the vent line for the crank. Apparently since that line looks brand new and with research, if there is no vacuum after the PCV valve it will not open. Thus not allowing for the crank case to vent the increased pressure.

 

So I'm getting rid of the PCV valve and here is my hopeful remedy.

 

002.jpg

003.jpg

006.jpg

001.jpg

 

What i used is an air fitting basically to attach the quick disconnect for an air hose in the opening of the oil breather box. Threaded into that fitting shown is the quick disconnect part that threads into an air tool..However that fitting (depicted in pix) will be replaced with a 90* fitting instead.

 

the JB Weld is a lil messy I know, but ill clean it up some then paint it black.

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Interesting, what's the body made out of?

 

I don't know if I've heard of anyone implementing a catch can on a boosted SOHC.

 

So basically all you've done is splice that into the line between your valve cover and intake, correct? <- still learning about turbos

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Interesting, what's the body made out of?

 

I don't know if I've heard of anyone implementing a catch can on a boosted SOHC.

 

So basically all you've done is splice that into the line between your valve cover and intake, correct? <- still learning about turbos

 

 

Oh and any boosted vehicle that wasnt that way stock needs a catch can whether it be sohc or dohc. the boost increase the pressure in the crank case resulting in degradation of your rings...and since my Block alone cost me $3000 im all set with that occuring.

 

 

Actually that is a spare OEM oil breather black box on the back of your engine. mounts underneath the intake manifold support and over the water pipe.

 

Putting the fitting on it allows me to run a hose right from that box to my homemade catch-can. (made out of PVC pipe) and from there it will just vent right to atmosphere. This completely removes and bypasses the PCV(positive crank-case Ventiliation) allowing the built up gases from the boost pressure to be released.

 

I installed it this afternoon/tonight(its only 732pm) and it no longer smokes at idle, which is a huge :TU: but it still smokes a lil under decel. It could be the turbo or even the valve seals still, i'll find out in the near future once it warms a bit more.

 

And heres a pic of it on my buddies lift. If not for the lift and I needing to do this on my back I woulda freaked the F* out a few times.

20090127_0016.jpg

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hell yeah man, sounds like the cars coming along nicely

 

 

 

sorry to thread jack real quick but rocco let me get a set of Si's off of you, share the wealth lol :laugh:

if you want to get rid of a set PM me man :thumbsup:

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that's a hella sweet lift! how much that run him and where he get it?

 

 

i think it cost him $3-4K and ive got no idea where from, he donest like to disclose details lol..its his dads.

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  • 9 months later...

So...Should I update this?

 

The rings on the z6 got degraded because I washed the crap outta the cylinders..I didn't realize you could run too rich...ohwell. So in the mean time because it'll be a while before the boosted z6 goes back in because it's getting transmission work and all the best products no more HMT set-up.

 

So for now so I can drive the sol, I tossed in an LS. What a nightmare that was. The kid I bought the swap off of was a lil shady. The transmission case ended up being junk and I didnt find this out until all of the new MTF I poured into it was puddling on the ground..awesome! Sourced a new LS trans with some custom gears/final drive and all new carbon syncros from a friend, honda senior tech for a good price.

 

Then I've been having the symptoms of having a bad ICM. So I tossed 5-reman distributors from advanced auto at it and still no dice. However everytime i switched dizzy's the symptoms altered a lil bit, and no where on the web did the symptoms point to anything else. So for the hell of it and taking the suggestions from others I sanded down the thermostat housing ground which was a bit corroded to shiny aluminum and voila. She now starts every time!!

 

So, now that its running great on a test drive my cat-back piping breaks and is just rotted out beyond repair...cool. Which leaves me at present date waiting for my new pace setter cat-back to come in the mail in a few days. I went with the pace setter because it's not too loud, fairly cheap, and the muffler is stock looking and not a straight through design.

 

Once the exhaust comes in I plan on getting a video up of it making a couple passes and just to prove that it runs as a DD again finally!!

 

**Edit, tomorrow I think im going to detail and make the best of the bad paint and quarter panel rust that I have..maybe some current pix will result

 

**EDIT#2 Here's a couple pix.

6331_250696460614_679770614_8225768_4754305_n.jpg

6331_250696480614_679770614_8225770_5908593_n.jpg

 

Brand new shift linkages and bushings from majestic honda:

6331_251264935614_679770614_8237459_5117652_n.jpg

 

And how the sol looks until it gets detailed..

11666_325276680614_679770614_9555766_7700936_n.jpg

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And waxed.

11666_325899445614_679770614_9563451_3002697_n.jpg

11666_325899465614_679770614_9563452_1252316_n.jpg

 

So the thing with the original LS transmission was that evidently it had bottomed out hard enough to break off the casting that went on the inside of the shifter stabilizer rod. it was helicoiled to be repaired by the orig. owner and they went too deep and drilled into the oil gally...I learned that after I had already helicoiled a couple of the trans mount holes...so it was just an upsetting cluster f*ck!

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And waxed.

11666_325899445614_679770614_9563451_3002697_n.jpg

11666_325899465614_679770614_9563452_1252316_n.jpg

 

So the thing with the original LS transmission was that evidently it had bottomed out hard enough to break off the casting that went on the inside of the shifter stabilizer rod. it was helicoiled to be repaired by the orig. owner and they went too deep and drilled into the oil gally...I learned that after I had already helicoiled a couple of the trans mount holes...so it was just an upsetting cluster f*ck!

PSSSST, your corner light dont line up! :p

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PSSSST, your corner light dont line up! :p

 

I just ignore the fact that it doesnt line up since thats a huge pet peeve of mine. but I've got the new un-hazed head lights and corners going in once I sand it down and paint it.

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