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b16b's winter project


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10.0:1 is perfect for only a few lbs of boost in that engine. your last car had JDM B16? or USDM? 10.4 is JDM B16A but im sure you know that anyways my man. 10.8:1 for ITR as well for those who dont know.

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i'm having trouble finding a place with pistons/rods for my car...i've found a couple places, but they have different variations for the gsr. i'm not really sure what to get. so it looks like an extra few hundred bucks on top of this project. i don't have assloads of money, so i'm trying to keep this a financially reasonable project.

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ok...one of the mods on honda-tech, earl, has a shop that sells this stuff i guess. this is exactly what he said: "CP's with rings and pins and Eagle rods run $800 shipped". this is for the gsr with 81mm bore. good deal? will this work for me? i was thinking of ordering them this week. that'll get them out of the way so i don't have to spend all this money at once. let me know guys

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10.4:1 is what gives JDM B16's 170 horse instead of USDM's 160 horse with 10.2:1. delsol VTEC's had 170 horse? have to change my engine list dammit , lol.

 

heres what i do know B16B(or what i found out for you). the diameters of piston rod journals(big and small , big being crank end , small being piston end).

 

B18C1: small - 20.964 , or , 0.8254 inches.

big - 48.00 , or 1.890 inches.

 

B16A: small - 20.968 , or , 0.8255 inches.

big - 48.00 , or , 1.89 inches.

 

as you can see a difference of .004 on the small end. which really dont matter cause youl be using C1 pistons and wrist pins anyways. the only measurement i cant find , but im sure is the same with all B16A's and B18C1's and C5's , is wrist pin to top of piston. we know the diameter or bore is the same , but im not sure if those B16B pistons are any taller than other B16's. but im sure there not. pretty sure the only difference between your B16B and B16A's how much room is in the combustion chamber with piston all the way up , ie. pistons(different dome).

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what about the deal from "earl" from honda-tech? that seemed ok to me. i couldn't find any place with that kind of package. this is one of the engine lists i have (i have more on my computer, but that's at my apartment)site...maybe it will stop you're little scuffle so we can get back to my pistons lol

according to that, 1st gen us b16a's were 10.2:1

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where is that place at? i jus bought an H22A for my civic and the motor has no wiring. do they sell wiring kits too. i was also thinkin about buying an s300

Its like 10 seconds from my house, they carry anything you want, here is the website www.Zerolift.com

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i find it odd that the displacement stays the same yet the B16B has a longer stroke and same bore. wierd. its as simple as this b16B , you need H rods that are the same length as your factory b16B rods. i never looked all through your link but see if you can find the differences between the C1 and b16B as far as rod length goes. we know the bore is the same. you cant use C1 rods in that engine if the stroke isnt the same. not without changing your crank which would be pointless.

 

ok heres what your info is telling us now that i read it all , lol. your B16B , has the same bore and stroke as any other JDM B16A , or usdm B16A3(prolly all). but... the block height is the same as a C1(270mm). so basically , what im getting out of that , is the B16B , is a destroked , long rod , higher compression C1(same block as a C1). your second link buddy is comparing B16A2 and B16B. your first link says the B16A3(delsolVTEC from 94-95) , is the same as your B16B. minus the block height and rod length. so to make a long story short , and if the info in your first link is accurate , which it sounds like it is , when you order pistons , order them for any JDM B16A , or the USDM B16A3. the only difference between the B16B and the JDM B16A is the block and rod length. its like they put the B16A internals in a C1 , with longer rods. as far as rods goes , its like SSR says , youl need to find the differences in them as well. i can tell you however that your B16B rod length is 142.30. a B16A is 134.00. if you run B16A pistons and rods in your engine it will give you a whopping compression ratio of 5.5:1 , hahaha. thats no good. you need to see if you can order rods for a B16B dude. other than that pistons are the same , minus the compression they give.

 

PS. check the difference between the 3 pistons in that link , the B16B pistons(far right) are way higher. in the middle between the valve relief , its like a 1/4 inch higher(not shaved down). like i was saying before , less room left in the cylinder when piston is at top of stroke , the higher the compression.

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so, cp's for a gsr would be the same as mine? or the jdm b16a? then rods are the only thing i have to worry about. look at the pictures on the bottom of site #2. above the color selections at the bottom, there is a picture with dimensions comparing the pistons from each. maybe ..ssr.. can make something happen

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i was thinking that SSR , im thinking its the only way he can do it unless he finds jap aftermarket parts which isnt impossible. the pistons are not the prolem at all , the rods are for sure. what i dont get , is how this site#2 is telling us that if you put B16A pistons in a B16B it will bump compression up to 11.1 , instead of 10.8. that i dont get. but B16A pistons will absolutely fit in a B16B.

 

heres what i found out , if he leaves his stock crank , rods in the car , and fires a set of JDM B16A pistons in it , it will give him a compression ratio of 9.6:1. this is perfect. from what i read , the stock B16B rods can take a beating. apparently thats why theres not much of a market for them.

 

PS. either i was reading wrong where it was telling me b16A pistons bump compression up , or it is wrong.

 

heres a cool tool i found on my journey today , maybe some of you have seen it , saves some math:

http://www.zealautowerks.com/index.html

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heres what i found out , if he leaves his stock crank , rods in the car , and fires a set of JDM B16A pistons in it , it will give him a compression ratio of 9.6:1. this is perfect. from what i read , the stock B16B rods can take a beating. apparently thats why theres not much of a market for them.

 

PS. either i was reading wrong where it was telling me b16A pistons bump compression up , or it is wrong.

 

heres a cool tool i found on my journey today , maybe some of you have seen it , saves some math:

http://www.zealautowerks.com/index.html

hopefully, if you're right, this is what i'll end up doing. keeping the b16b crank and rods, and just using lower compression pistons. this would save me a lot of hours...and a hell of a lot of money, since i would need custom rods. since both the jdm b16a and the b16b are the same bore, this would work, correct? would i have to worry about throwing a rod (even though they're strong, cranny)?

 

that's a really cool site...definitely saves time

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well its like this , people run 8 lbs on not nearly as strong of an engine , with no problems. you know this as well. you dont need H rods for 8 lbs of boost. since your engine has such long rods also , it makes it alot easier on them anyways. why they rev so high successfully without injury. from what i gathered today , JDM B16A pistons(stock ones) will give you 9.6:1. do it yourself on the calculator i posted. put B16B everything except pistons and for them pick the JDM B16A. hit calculate and whammo. from what i can gather and whats available , this is your only option with keeping your stock crank. which you want to of course. but as SSR said earlier , the B16B block is identical to B18C1. you could get a B18C crank , and than buy CP pistons and rods for a C1. but than you wouldnt have a B16B , lol , youd have a B18C1. plus it would cost you a fortune to get all that. this is your best bet. id say with 9.6:1 in that engine running 8 lbs , youd be in the 300 whp range. maybe little more.

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woah...300? i was thinking it would be around 250 or so...but no complaints here. so i'm pretty confident with this setup you've helped me arrange. i think it will work fine. check my original list again and see if it needs some tweeking, or if i'm ready to start getting some parts. would i need a bigger wastegate? good with the t3?

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