DelSolFreak Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 ive been reading up on these "$50 Paint Jobs" and some people are getting awsome result from roll on and some are getting crapty result.(seems to me to be a result of effort) but everyone who does the spray on is getting awsome result, but they said it was a pain in the ass to do and was real easy to make a mistake compared to the roll on methods. plus there the issue of having a clean area to work and then theres equipment i dont have, ect. what do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tubbith Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 Honestly, why not just save up the money to get it done right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 The worst thing that could happen is that it looks like a $50.00 paint job, which it is. I think believing it would like something other than a $50.00 paint job is unrealistic. Photos on the internet and real life are two totally different things. At 3.2M, my car looks awsome; in real life, you can see my paint is in desperate need of a clay bar treatment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 If I ever had a car that was a complete garbage regarding the exterior, I would attempt it myself using an actual spray gun. I'd get me a $100 gun from oreilley's and enough paint to do the job and spend the time to prep it right. May not look 100% but if you took your time I bet it could look close to a factory job. Just spray some test panels to get the hang of the gun and the right pressure needed. Then make sure to wetsand and buff when you are done and I'd bet I could get it looking as good as factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolFreak Posted July 15, 2008 Author Share Posted July 15, 2008 i was going to wetsand after every 2 coats start witha 800 grit, then 1000, then finishing somewhere between 1500-2000. 2 coats of primer to start and 3 clear coats to finish. do you sand clear coat or is that a no-no!? and i cant save money for a paint job cause i make a $9 an hour and have a crap load of bills for a 20 year old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EH6TunerDaniel Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Rattle can? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrIaN EG2 Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 i was going to wetsand after every 2 coats start witha 800 grit, then 1000, then finishing somewhere between 1500-2000. 2 coats of primer to start and 3 clear coats to finish. do you sand clear coat or is that a no-no!? and i cant save money for a paint job cause i make a $9 an hour and have a crap load of bills for a 20 year old. save your money by selling drugs hahaha just kidding... i wouldnt do the roll on paint, i would wait and get it done the right way, id find a way to save money so i could get it done to look like a factory paint job... not like a back yard job done in iraq with all kinds of trash in the coat... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolFreak Posted July 15, 2008 Author Share Posted July 15, 2008 i was going to seal off half the garage, wash to floor wipe down walls and ceiling and do it. plus i have an a/c vent in there so if i need to cool off that area cause its not optimal temp to paint i can control that. beside i gotta save up for the dart block and endyn head i want to buy! lol! then save for internals, then sc, then tranny build, then suspension, ect. ect. ect.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRG7 Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 i was going to seal off half the garage, wash to floor wipe down walls and ceiling and do it. plus i have an a/c vent in there so if i need to cool off that area cause its not optimal temp to paint i can control that. beside i gotta save up for the dart block and endyn head i want to buy! lol! then save for internals, then sc, then tranny build, then suspension, ect. ect. ect.............. we sprayed my crx in my garage last spring, the passenger side orange-peeled, but the rest came out completely fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolFreak Posted July 16, 2008 Author Share Posted July 16, 2008 sprayed with a gun or rattle can? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRG7 Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 sprayed with a gun or rattle can? rattle canned the engine bay with ppg (that was actually done well before a year ago), then used the gun on all else Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolFreak Posted July 18, 2008 Author Share Posted July 18, 2008 ok...... but do i wet sand and buff the clear coat or just buff after the last coat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted July 18, 2008 Share Posted July 18, 2008 ok...... but do i wet sand and buff the clear coat or just buff after the last coat? That's the same thing. The clear coat will be the last coat. Have you ever had any experience in wetsanding/buffing? If not, I'd suggest not attempting it as chances would be that you'd burn through the paint. Wetsanding/Rotary Buffing + Inexperience = another new paint job. If there's really bad orange peel then you might find a local detailer and get a price though that would be fairly high. I'd probably charge in the $500-600 range for a complete wetsand and buff job assuming that I would have the time for it anyway. A proper wetsand/buffing would take in the neighborhood of 20 hours or more if you want to get it really nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpearce1974 Posted July 18, 2008 Share Posted July 18, 2008 I vote for Rhino lining! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted July 18, 2008 Share Posted July 18, 2008 Line-X FTW! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben. Posted July 18, 2008 Share Posted July 18, 2008 Do it Wooly Mammoth style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolFreak Posted July 18, 2008 Author Share Posted July 18, 2008 ha! well i wasnt going to just start on my car i was going to get a door or hood or something of a junk car and practice til perfect. also i was told that i am supposed to put 2-3 coats of clear coat on, and i was wondering if im supposed to wet sand between them or just after all 2-3 coats are on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolFreak Posted July 21, 2008 Author Share Posted July 21, 2008 come on people! someone here has to know this!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 Well it depends. YOu'll only want to wait about 20 minutes between coats of clear. You obviously can't sand after 20 minutes. Here's what I would do - Spray Clear coat - Wait 20 minutes - Spray Clear Coat - Wait 20 minutes - Inspect for Orange Peel (if okay then do one more coat of clear) If there's very bad orange peel after the 2nd coat then wait 24 hours and wetsand it smooth and follow by 1-2 more coats of clear followed by wetsand and buff. I say all of this assuming that you will get somebody to help you that knows how to properly wetsand and probably more imporantly, knows the proper way to use a rotary buffer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrIaN EG2 Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 Do it Wooly Mammoth style. MAKE IT LOOK LIKE THE DOG VAN ON DUMB AND DUMBER!!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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