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Everything posted by Xeryon

  1. 30 people in a Facebook thread pining for the old days. Two go to the website.
  2. If you have access to a timing light: http://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/08/06/how-to-check-honda-civic-ignition-timing/ It's for a civic but the base process is about the same. Probably redundant but chatting on a forum I never know how skilled or thorough the person sitting at the other keyboard is. The timing covers are just to keep debris and engine fluid splatters off the belt. You could run the car without the covers if you really wanted.
  3. Sure. When the engine is cold it runs rich and at a higher idle until operating temp is reached. Could be the extra fuel is just hiding the timing being off. Your issue sounds entirely like a timing problem, but that isn't limited to just the belt. The plugs could be out of sequence or the distributor could be faulty or advanced/retarded too much. Hell, it could be a faulty injector too. It might be fouled up and under load the higher flow rate means enough fuel is getting there to avoid a misfire but under idle conditions it's not getting enough through.
  4. It's alright. Total pain in the ass but good thing you figured it out. Worth the extra effort to do it right.
  5. Have you checked to make sure the timing belt didn't jump a tooth? You mentioned a recent TB and WP I hope that also included the tensioner pulley too? With time that pulley shaft will bend and allow slack in an otherwise good belt.
  6. There is still some interest. Just need a few people to start using this place for social time on occasion. Really doesn't have to be about cars, just traffic.
  7. That's not good. Never had my hands on a v6 for a TB change so I'm not much help. Do you have a service manual? It should identify the sizes of the bolts needed for the job. Hopefully that can jog your memory.
  8. There is an ignition relay to check. Sometimes it just comes loose and can be reseated. It is officially called the Main Relay. A quick google search should net you a few pictures of where to look for it on your specific car.
  9. Xeryon

    sun visor

    This place isn't very busy and a generic 09 Acura for a description isn't very helpful either. There were what, 15 Acura models in 2009? Each one probably had a different method of mounting the sun visor. I am not a human encyclopedia. You are going to have to do it the old fashioned way: grab a screwdriver and figure it out. For what help can be offered a picture of what you are looking at might help.
  10. You can't find a straight answer because you have some of your info wrong somewhere* The d16y7 from your 96 is a terrible engine. Non-vtec about 105hp or something. It's great for commuting and sipping gas but generally only worth about scrap aluminum price. You are correct that it is an OBD2 setup. Where you have something wrong is the other car. You list your 95 (or 93, which is it?) as having an d16y8 with an OBD1 setup. This is not possible. The y8 was a solid engine. vtec, 130 something hp, about equivalent to the d16z6 but it was only every offered as an OBD2 setup. in 96-00 cars. The 92-95 cars were all OBD1 with either d15b7 or d16z6. The b7 was pretty worthless too. Similar to the y7. *The only way this would all pan out as you initially described it is if someone did one ridiculously janky engine swap and cross-wired the shit out of a lot of sensors on that 93/95. Ultimately, you need the ecu that matches the engine. you will likely need to rewire your engine harness yourself. no one bothered to make an obd2 to obd1 conversion harness for a y7 because there was really minimal reason to swap a y7 into any car even if the engine was free.
  11. From 2-14 to playoffs? Might be wishful thinking there. I don't really follow NFL. I live in Columbus OH. Epicenter of college football. The entire town lives and dies by Buckeye football. Sometimes people around here remember that the Bengals and Browns are also in the same state but not until about mid December.
  12. I can't say it is normal for your car specifically but in many cars it is normal for the clock to stay on for a while. The draw of the digital readout from the clock is so minuscule that it would literally take years to drain the battery so I wouldn't worry about it too much.
  13. Xeryon

    Accord check eng

    Be nice if you had the specific code. That car is plagued with P0420 codes which were tied to the secondary O2 sensor reading out of range. On rare occasion it was the O2 sensor, sometimes it was the catalytic converter and usually you were just screwed. Had a lot to do with the emissions on the car being wound up as tight as they could so it would get a ULEV classification. As the car aged and the motor fully breaks in the overall emission output of the vehicle starts to increase even with all the proper control systems in place and working as they should. If that is the code you have and you do not live in an emissions check area and your fuel mileage is not negatively impacted it may be best to ignore it.
  14. I've always sourced my kits from the local NAPA as they were substantially less expensive and just erred on the side of caution and did the timing belt every 80k. The price quotes you list seem pretty typical for the job. I've done the install myself a couple times and also once paid a local mechanic $450 and he supplied the parts for a TB, WP and all the dive belts (they have to come off anyway).
  15. Are you against doing most of these yourself? Much of what you listed there is quite easy to do with a basic home mechanics tool kit.
  16. Are the gears engaging at all? Like, is your master cylinder and slave cylinder working correctly so that you are actually shifting into a gear?
  17. From a long time past there was a minimum number of posts required to use the classifieds to keep spam to a minimum. Site doesn't get much traffic these days. Even if you had a high enough post count it isn't worth your time to post something for sale on here.
  18. Multi meter. You can test to see if the switch is properly engaging/disengaging when depressed.
  19. It will stay dead with introduction responses like that. Why bother posting? I don't know where you Canadians get the rust free cars from but I want in on the action. I'm 200 miles south of the most Southern point of Ontario and my cars dissolve to dust in 10 years if I drive them regularly. Hell, my last one rusted out bad at 15 and it spent most of it's life in Texas and was garaged winters. It rusted sitting in storage.
  20. 105hp is what causes the problem (I have no idea actually but the point is the same). Pressing that AC button probably robs you of 25% of your engine power in on shot. That or the pully or compressor bearing are damaged.
  21. The vast majority of cars don't have rear flaps. The bumpers were better at taking abuse then the front doors so unless you requested to pay extra no dealer or manufacturer installs them by default. I know there are a few states that require them for various reasons but most do not.
  22. Current civic has a longer and wider wheel base than the accord did 20 years ago and the 4cly engine has more power than the first 6cyl options accords had. Saying the engine in an old accord in the past is good or bad isn't relevant to the discussion because it doesn't apply to the vehicles you are looking at today. Historically the accord engines themselves would live longer lives because they were more adult driven and were better maintained family cars. More civics have survived because people like to tinker with the smaller and lighter chassis, not necessarily because the engines lasted longer. For me smaller, lighter and more fuel efficient are the deciding factors. Especially for us long distance commuters. I run up 40-50k in commute to office miles alone. Doesn't even count personal miles or work driving. I drive so much I gave up on Hondas a while ago. Their cars just aren't fuel efficient enough anymore. They have actually regressed mpg-wise. I'm all diesel VW with 50+ mpg, plenty of amenities, decent power and it comes in a manual.
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