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would you go boost???


prophet

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hey im planning on going boost after i get out of basic training cause i will have the extra money there.... but the way i want to do it is by going all motor making the internals stronger the adding a vtec controller to lower the vtec from 5000 rpms where it starts naturally and move it down to about 4500 then going boost from 4500 also all the way to 7000 where it red lines???? and do you guys know if hondata works for preludes?????????????????????????????

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You don't build a motor all motor, and then change for boost. You build one or the other. Don't mess with VTEC engagement unless you have a heavily modified engine. The factory setting is pretty spot on.

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hey im planning on going boost after i get out of basic training cause i will have the extra money there.... but the way i want to do it is by going all motor making the internals stronger the adding a vtec controller to lower the vtec from 5000 rpms where it starts naturally and move it down to about 4500 then going boost from 4500 also all the way to 7000 where it red lines???? and do you guys know if hondata works for preludes?????????????????????????????

 

A. You don't need a VTEC controller. You will have to get tuned on something (Hondata, Crome, etc...) and they can set the VTEC point through that software. Plus if you are on a dyno getting tuned they will be able to see the dip in power from VTEC and set the engagment point at the optimum time...not just a random number like you've picked.

 

B. As Kastigir said....you build a motor different for all motor or boost so pick one and start building that direction. General rule is Boost you want lower compression pistons...n/a you want higher compression pistions. There are exceptions like full blown race cars running high compression and boost, but that's not good for a daily driver and they are usually on C16 or race gas of some kind.

 

C. Hondata works for all OBD-1 hondas.

 

D. Good luck with your build

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+1 to everything said..

 

boost doesnt engage at a set rpm.. pending on turdbo size, wheel trim, etc it will spool at a certain rate never at a certain rpm..

 

and as said above boost or N/A.. IMO boost

 

 

and where in the hell are you in basic at? they let you kids use the computers now? wtf too lax now a days.. i barely got to use the phone for 3 minutes

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  • 2 weeks later...
+1 to everything said..

 

boost doesnt engage at a set rpm.. pending on turdbo size, wheel trim, etc it will spool at a certain rate never at a certain rpm..

 

and as said above boost or N/A.. IMO boost

 

 

and where in the hell are you in basic at? they let you kids use the computers now? wtf too lax now a days.. i barely got to use the phone for 3 minutes

 

+1.

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Yeah basic bolt on's (n/a wise) don't really result in blazing power. Maybe a costly engine rebuild for NA with all the best Na options but turbo is where you get the best bang for your buck.

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if you go boost you dont need a vtec controller. honestly theyre worthless i think.

 

your car is obd2 so you will need to buy an obd1 conversion harness and a p28 or p72 that has been chipped for your car with crome, hondata, neptune etc.

 

you can boost a stock engine on lowish boost but i wouldnt crank it past 7 psi or so.

 

If you are looking for high boost like 10 psi or more you will need internal work. The top end is pretty much fine for boost, and the stock h22 cams work pretty good for boost as well, however, it would be smart to beef the head up with fresh seals and stuff. The bottom end is the pain in the ass with h22s. The cylinder walls have an frm coating which means you cannot run forged pistons without sleeving the block. Take that back, you can run mahle forged pistons but they are junk, dont even waste your time with them. I would either sleeve the block and run nice forged pistons with a compression of 9:1 and while you have the motor taken apart, throw new stronger rods in there too. Then you could safely run alot more boost.

 

Just keep in mind how costly a turbo build can become, they always cost twice as much as people think when they start them

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well here is what i have done since the last time i was on here.... i have bought another prelude its a 93 but so far from the engine mount points and everything in the car its the same as a 92, but anyways i just swapped another h22 into this one but it was fully rebuilt for n/a it only has 10 miles on the whole engine itself and the tranny only has 14. the car itself has 182948 miles on it already changed almost everything on it so when its done it should be basically brand new all around and just be a bad ass car... thought if i was going to do this right this would be the better comparison... so far this engine only has 221 hp to the wheels and 187lbft of trq thats what the dyno says i will get the print out for yall so you cant say crap about it.... the other engine i sent in about a week ago to get a rebuild also when it comes back i will let yall know where that one stands and from there i will start putting the boost in. o0o one more thing should i keep the all the interior in???? and should it be exactly the same in both cars down to the very last thing in it well besides the engine????

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PICS OR BAN!!!

 

boost > na

 

have fun taking it easy on the N/A built car, breaking a car in is a bitch.. all that power and you cant use it until you hit the 6k mark (6k is better safe than sorry)

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