Xeryon Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 I love my car. The more I fix the more it fails. And I like it. Complete - Integra Rear Disc Conversion: including GSR Booster, GSR MC, GSR Prop Valve, Steel Braided Lines, OE Calipers, Brembo Rotors, Axxis Pads. 99% Complete - F&F Coilovers, Front and Rear Skunk2 Adjustable Control Arms, Energy Suspension Bushings, Carbing Body Braces. Just need to tweak the height and get an alignment. Obtained - Z6 Trans (Thanks Jarrod!) Near future - Flywheel, D-Series Header, CAI Put y8 build on hold for now. I'm still fiddling with it but I don't have the time to put into it right now. Trying to decide which swap would work best for me for the medium-term future: d16z6, d15b, d16zc: Not sure yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EH6TunerDaniel Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 I would say thermostat first...since you are not leaking anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelkou Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Agreed. in my old 91 isuzu pickup the thermo went out and when it idled itd shoot up pretty high but if iwas driving itd be okay due to the airflow. Check the thermo, they're pretty cheap at a parts store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 Run the car to temp, then grab the upper radiator hose. If it's cool, you need a new thermo. BTW, didn't you just do a T-belt? Did you replace the water pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatch92 Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 option1: thermostat option2: water pump option3: radiator.... does it have alot of bent fins or fins rotted away? Edit: after all that i don't know what the problem could be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted July 28, 2007 Author Share Posted July 28, 2007 Run the car to temp, then grab the upper radiator hose. If it's cool, you need a new thermo. BTW, didn't you just do a T-belt? Did you replace the water pump? I just did a t-belt and wp on the wifes del sol. this car is running as it sits though. I am planning on swapping the motor so i have no intention of replacing any major items in the short term. If the t-belt on the civic is 10 years and 200k miles old I don't really care, the week before the swap if it is still running I will probably beat the life out of the d15 anyway. Only reason I was fixing this is because the thermo was a cheap part anyway. option1: thermostatoption2: water pump option3: radiator.... does it have alot of bent fins or fins rotted away? Edit: after all that i don't know what the problem could be. nope, rad was in tip top condition, very strage for a 95 with 200k plus on the odometer... I love your new avatar! w00t Problem was apparently the thermo. I had a used one on one of the spare engines I had in the garage so I just grabbed it and swapped it in and everything is running fine now. Two hours of work to figure out how to replace it, do the work and to test it out. Not too bad really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatch92 Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 congrats on fixin the car. My ranger seems to give me the same problems, it never wants to stay fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93blacklx Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 My thermo is stuck open but I'm just going to wait till winter is almost here to replace it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted July 31, 2007 Author Share Posted July 31, 2007 congrats on fixin the car. My ranger seems to give me the same problems, it never wants to stay fixed. There are four reasons for that: F-O-R-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted August 20, 2007 Author Share Posted August 20, 2007 Well, I guess the thermo wasn't the only issue. The problems are not as prevelant but I still have some overheating issues. Next guess is that it must be the wp. When driving if I maintain forward speed (even when I get on it and beat it) and do not exceed 60 the temp is perfectly normal. If I take it over 60 the temp starts to go up, but it doesn't keep going up it just finds a higher temp to run stable at. If I come to a stop at a light or in a drive-thru the temp goes through the roof until I get under way again. Must be the WP. I didn't really want to put any more into the engine. I wanted to swap but I don't have the new motor finished yet and probably will not for at least a few more months. This wouldn't be a problem as I was only driving 10-15 miles a week, but I just took a part time job in the city and two days a week I have an 80mi commute now. I have three heads, a z6, and two y8's. The z6 is being built for the new motor, so I was thinking of doing a minime with one of the y8s since I will have to replace the WP and might as well do the TB as well since I am in there. I found plenty of good how-to pages on HT. Anyone else have any thoughts on this or have anything to note that I should be sure to watch for? Is the y8 intake manifold a relevant replacement for the b7 one I have on there? I have the mani from an auto y8 though and didn't know if the fact that it was an auto vs manual made any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted August 23, 2007 Author Share Posted August 23, 2007 no one has an input? oh well, new brembo rotors and axxis ceramic pads will be here next tues/wed and I will finish the 4 wheel disc conversion about a week after that. thanks to ebp_em1 for the info on a kick as place to buy them. bought my exhaust from cardomain.com as they were by far the cheapest place I could find on the net. that should arrive wed/thurs next week and hopefully i'll get that on the next day. Can't wait to hear how the WS2 sounds. btw, cardomain sucks. it will have taken them nearly 20 days to get my exhaust delivered to me if it does show up when they said it would. picked up a set of white face gauges with red lettering from Speedhut. Those are already installed. always wanted a set of white face gauges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 as simple as this sounds dude , bare with me. but if your coolant system is down on coolant and not bled properly , it will give you those exact symptoms. is your overflow full or empty? if your coolant is not down and overflow is normal , and thermo is good and rad is good , well than it has to be a water pump obviously. your brakes sound sweet man. as far as the head swap goes , do it man , its simple and well worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted August 23, 2007 Author Share Posted August 23, 2007 yea, it was properly bled and the overflow is correctly filled. i guess i'll just tear it down and do the head swap as well as the other maintenance issues. any comments on the intake manifold? worth the effort to do it? will that fact that it is an auto manifold give me any problems in a manual car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kegger Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Gave Dan a lot of problems when he went to manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted August 23, 2007 Author Share Posted August 23, 2007 i think you missed the context of my question: intake manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kegger Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 No I didn't, when Dan did his AT to MT swap, he left the AT manny on and had all kinds of idle problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted August 23, 2007 Author Share Posted August 23, 2007 sorry keegan, now i understand. so far from what I have read online was that the y8 manifold is better then my b7 manifold, and aside from that I hadn't found much noting if there was a difference in the auto version or the manual version. One person mentioned you could drill a specific location to mount something to place a sensor, but did not elaborate further. i got the mani for free, so i have no fears to do whatever to it, I just don't know what to do with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted August 30, 2007 Author Share Posted August 30, 2007 Sorry I spelled your name wrong too Kegan. I have a friend whos name is Keegan with two e's. Honest mistake. Brakes are in...w00t! Try and get those installed in a week or two. I just got the exhaust in today and had a local shop hang it for me. I would have attempted to hang it myself except for about 50 reasons. The biggest one being that Apexi does not make an exhaust that fits a sedan. I had to buy an ex/si coupe exhaust and have it custom fit. I love everything about it except for the gigantic gay ass chrome tip. Hallmark of a ricer in my book. I tried to find an exhaust that was matte colored, but no luck. The intention was to have the quietest performance exhaust I could find. I already have two tickets from my last car's exhaust, I didn't want more. I think it sounds pretty nice for an otherwise completely stock d15. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kegger Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 Rev it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted August 30, 2007 Author Share Posted August 30, 2007 i did 6500rpm its just that quiet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted October 29, 2007 Author Share Posted October 29, 2007 In the middle of my rear disc conversion ATM. Questions I am hoping someone can help answer. The LCA's I have the bushings are shot, and at the OE cost to replace them I might as well look at buying aluminum aftermarket LCA's that already include new bushings pressed in. Are the spherical bearing type worth the extra $'s? I'm doing some of my own research on these so far, but haven't found much yet. Only thing I have seen is that the metal bushings would be uncomfortable as f*ck on bumpy roads. I have found a few brands but haven't seen or read enough about them to develop an opinion. Blox, Omni, mfactory... These are what seems like a decent price and I haven't read any complaints yet: $115 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted October 29, 2007 Share Posted October 29, 2007 I had good luck with my Omni rear LCAs and they were that much. They just redesigned them too. I'd get them over Blox unless the price has gone up significantly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted October 30, 2007 Author Share Posted October 30, 2007 interesting...dozen people have comments on crappy egay exhausts, but no one has anything to even comment on regarding an actual performance oriented part. thanks for the reference TSJ. I will do a little price searching on the Omni's. I will need to get the parts purchased in the next 24 hours to get my project finished soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted October 30, 2007 Share Posted October 30, 2007 I got my LCAs from Robear Racing, as a price reference. They shipped fast and were good to deal with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted October 31, 2007 Author Share Posted October 31, 2007 LCAs purchased. Price for the 'new' omni's before shipping would be $170 was the best I found. I just went with the blox, they ended up being $105 including shipping. Since the bushings in the LCAs I have are toast, and the dealer price is around 16/18 each for the 6 I would need the price on the blox was about what the OEM refurb would have run me. They look nicer then the stock and maybe the lighter weight will have some relevance, who knows? In any case they would have to be at least the same, if not better then stock. I am also trying to find a pair of trailing arm bushings, which is proving to be a problem. The donor car was a 93 teg gs. I'll be damned if I can find anyone other then an Acura dealer that will sell them, and at $62 each plus shipping. The LCAs are identical for 92-95 civics and 90-01 integras, anyone know if the trailing arm is the same? I know the hardware and bolt holes on the teg arm are different, but I am hoping the bushing would be the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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