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Advice for a deployed soldier lookin at getting a 98+ prelude in the n


CobraStrikeJN66

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Ive been looking into getting a 98+ Prelude for a daily driver/ occasional track car. Only problem is I am in Afghanistan but ill be state side in November to begin my hunt. I have a budget of no more than 8k for the car with 2k for parts (it will be more after my deployment is over for good next summer). My questions are, what are good supporting mods i can get with my 2k parts budget. I know intake/exhaust etc as i have on my civic. what are some legit sites to purchase from who have good deals for parts quality? I am fairly new to the Honda scene as my brother turned me on to em less than 6 months ago and i bought my first civic a few months later because it was cheap and it served dual purposes since its kept at my moms house in Washington State while im stationed in Kentucky she can drive it and cart my siblings around and I drive it while im home on block leave. I plan on giving her my civic once i get the prelude. My ultimate goal is to possibly do an engine swap and maybe a turbo. that's long term however and probably not going to be within reach for over a year. Also what differences can i see between the auto vs manual tranny, ive heard mixed reviews about both arguing both sides advantages in certain areas. Finally when looking at the car itself what problem areas should i pay close attention to to avoid getting ripped off? Id look into these answers myself but Ive got a limited amount of internet time and im on R&R for a few days before I head back out to a smaller base without internet (the benefits of being in the Infantry). Thanks for your help

 

-- Cobra

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First off, thank you for your service over in Afghanistan, we all appreciate what you're doing for our country.

 

Now to answer some of your questions. First things first, DEFINITELY get a manual. They are muchmuchmuch more fun than auto and you have more control of the car.

 

Also, if you get a good prelude, you won't need to do an engine swap. A lot of people swap the prelude's H22 into their car.

 

As for mods, if you have two grand, and want to see some actual results, I would suggest piecing together a turbo kit.

 

Bolt ons are nice, because they are cheap and easy to install, but you really don't get much of a gain from them.

 

If you decide to go the turbo route, there is a pinned thread at the top of the Engine/Tuning/Upgrades/Swaps section of the forum that will give you a very good start on how to build a turbo.

 

Good luck and let us know if you have any other questions.

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Thanks for the reply! I will look into the thread you mentioned earlier. Now the reason I ask about the engine swap is because I probably wont find a Prelude with less than 50k miles on it, at least in my price range and with the various other performance cars Ive owned over the years if theres one thing I know its that used sports cars rarely last long if they were driven even alittle rough but only maintained to the minimum standard so I figured If I checked the car thuroughly and eventually swap a new lightly upgraded or stock H22 into the vehicle It would service me for longer than a car with 100K of misuse already pounded into the block and tranny. I suppose the main theme of my question is what kind of abuse can these engines handle before its time for a new stronger block?

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Well Hondas can run forever if you take care of them. Now, will you know how well the owner took care of the car, maybe if you're lucky.

 

Either way these motors are built to last and you usually don't see major issues with them till they are over 150k.

 

As far as abuse and needing a stronger block, the only real reason for that would be turbo. Most of the time stock engines can handle around 6-8 psi if tuned correctly.

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Eh, not really. Usually the best way is to find the part you want, then google it for the best prices.

 

If you have questions about a specific site, post it here to see if anyone else has used it.

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DO NOT BUY AN AUTOMATIC. They are junk.

 

Intake: I read a while back that an Injen CAI or SRI fitted with a BPI flowstack and an apexi filter was a pretty good set up. The JDM Type S intake is also pretty good. I have one on mine with a K&N filter. It isn't as loud as the aftermarket intakes though.

 

Exhaust manifold (header) Hytech or hytech replica have been shown to give the most gains. I plan on getting one as soon as my exhaust system gives up the ghost.

 

Exhaust: Depends on what you want.

 

 

Engine swap: Unnecessary.

 

 

Keep in mind, the Prelude is a heavy front wheel drive 4 cylinder car. It was built for handling, not for drag racing, so if you are hoping to build a superfast quarter mile monster, you're wasting your time, and a wonderful car.

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heavy + FWD = understeer

 

In 1997, Car and Driver named the Prelude(Type SH) the best handling car under $30000. Understeer in the base model is more than manageable if you know how to drive.

 

 

Thanks for coming out.

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Ok Ill look into manuals for sure then. Im not too interested in quarter mile anymore. that was more of a sad phase i went through in highschool with my camaros and mustangs. Im lookin more autocross style road courses but the random street light to street light wont be out of the picture of course. I head back out in to the wild middle east in a couple hours so I wont be able to check replies probably until I around November when I head home for two weeks of mid tour leave. Thanks for the pointers and if there is anything additional posted when I leave Ill look into it around November. Thanks again.

 

--Cobra

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NORTHSTAR gets pissy when someone states truth

 

I fixed it so there would no confusion on the other parties side

 

 

smile.gif

 

 

 

 

 

I find it amusing that she gets so pissy but yet admits they understeer.. which means the comment was correct in the first place laugh.gif

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In 1997, Car and Driver named the Prelude(Type SH) the best handling car under $30000. Understeer in the base model is more than manageable if you know how to drive.

 

 

Thanks for coming out.

wtf is with the attitude? Makes you sound like a b*tch. Just get a nice rear sway bar, some after market coilovers, maybe some polyurethane bushings and it'll fix that understeer right up. A Limited-Slip Differential (LSD) transmission will help too. Pretty sure those only came in manuals.

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In 1997, Car and Driver named the Prelude(Type SH) the best handling car under $30000. Understeer in the base model is more than manageable if you know how to drive.

 

 

Thanks for coming out.

 

Do you come off as a c*nt on purpose? Almost all of your posts make you seem like a shriveled old hag who needs the dust cleaned out.

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Do you come off as a c*nt on purpose? Almost all of your posts make you seem like a shriveled old hag who needs the dust cleaned out.

 

 

She's as dry as a ten year old sandbox, evidently.

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wtf is with the attitude? Makes you sound like a b*tch.

 

Really? I sound like a bitch to you?

 

:rolleyes: Someone pass me the scotch tape, cause my heart is juuuuust breaking.

 

Do you come off as a c*nt on purpose? Almost all of your posts make you seem like a shriveled old hag who needs the dust cleaned out.

 

Whats it to you?

 

I'll let you in on a little secret...I find very little useful information anything you say, so I skim over your posts without responding to them. I suggest you do the same when you come across mine if you lack the real world experience to handle a little honesty, or cannot extend yourself to offer any technical information in response to the thread starter's question. Do you follow what I'm saying?

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Really? I sound like a bitch to you?

 

:rolleyes: Someone pass me the scotch tape, cause my heart is juuuuust breaking.

 

 

 

Scotch tape? I like where you're going with this. Sounds like you need some good poon tiggity tang tong. :blush:

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Scotch tape? I like where you're going with this. Sounds like you need some good poon tiggity tang tong. :blush:

 

She skims over your posts but responds to them.

 

I LAWL VERILY AT THIS.

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Whats it to you?

 

I'll let you in on a little secret...I find very little useful information anything you say, so I skim over your posts without responding to them. I suggest you do the same when you come across mine if you lack the real world experience to handle a little honesty, or cannot extend yourself to offer any technical information in response to the thread starter's question. Do you follow what I'm saying?

 

TBH, it really means very little to me. It has nothing to do with honesty, I'm just stating my opinion of you formed from your very limited posts here. As far as technical information for the OP: keep your head down and send a few of them to Allah for me.

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Finally when looking at the car itself what problem areas should i pay close attention to to avoid getting ripped off? Id look into these answers myself but Ive got a limited amount of internet time and im on R&R for a few days before I head back out to a smaller base without internet (the benefits of being in the Infantry).

 

- Know the differences in the models and how to spot them. I can't believe how many people buy a Prelude and have no idea if it is a Type SH or a base. Know what you are looking at, and what you want the end result to be. The Type SH for example comes with the ATTS system which cuts down on understeer which earned it the title of the best handling car under $30000 (despite what others might say). Because of this, many parts are not interchangeable between the Base and Type SH. Many find it difficult to modify a Type SH because parts are harder to come by. The Type Sh is also heavier because of the ATTS system.

 

Type SH:

 

- Comes with MANUAL TRANSMISSION ONLY

- ATTS unit

- Red "H" centre wheel caps

- Non-directional rims

- Leather wrapped shift knob (rounder in shape than the Base model shift knob)

- Courtesy lamps on the lower edges of the doors

- ATTS light in the instrument cluster

- Type SH badge on trunk lid

- Rear deck without the third brake light

- Factory rear spoiler.

- Colour matched rocker moldings.

 

Base:

 

- Available in Automatic or manual.

- Black "H" centre caps

- 5 spoke directional rims

- Square-ish shift knob

- Rear deck with the third brake light. (The deck can be changed to eliminate the third brake light, so its absence isn't indicative of a Type SH)

- May or may not have a spoiler. Cars with factory spoilers did not come with the third brake light installed on the rear deck. Base models with dealer installed spoilers often have four brake lights.

- Black rocker moldings

 

- All USDM Preludes came with the H22 and VTEC.

 

- Preludes come with four keys.

Two Black (master) keys which start the engine, and work on the doors, gas door, glove box, trunk, and, folding rear seat.

One Gray (Valet) key which starts the engine and opens the doors only.

One Red learning key. This key is used to code new keys for your car should you lose one. If one comes with your car DON'T lose it! And DON'T try to start the engine with it either! If the car you are purchasing doesn't come with the red key, they are very expensive to buy. The red key for my first prelude was $850.

 

- The OEM stereo requires a security code to unlock it if the fuse is pulled, or the battery is disconnected. Check with the seller of the vehicle to see if they have the code somewhere. If you don't have the code you will have to go to Honda to retrieve it, and they charge for that.

 

- Fifth generation Preludes had a series of recalls and TSB's. Among these are the Ignition Switch recall (the car will shut down while driving), and "Shock knock." I would recommend downloading the Helms manual for free if you can. I can provide you with a link to a copy if you would like. I also have the recall notices and TSBs on my computer as well if you would like those as well.

 

- Check for oil leaks, especially around the distributor and camshaft seal. The O-ring in the distributor will deteriorate and leak over time, as will the she camshaft seal/plug. Replacing these is easy though if you know your way around.

 

- Fifth gear grind is another issue some owners encounter. I haven't myself had this occur, but from what I recall, some GM sychromesh will elevate the symptoms.

 

- Clutch pedal squeaking is common and easy to fix.

 

- I would avoid an automatic at all costs. They are notorious for failing.

 

- The tracks for the sunroof require lubrication every once in a while. The sunroof will rattle when going over bumps.

- The headliner will rattle at the back during extreme cold weather.

 

- Rust spots are all in the usual Honda areas.

 

- The plastic headlight covers yellow over time. This can be fixed by sanding/buffing, or with a headlight restoration kit.

 

- The door window sills crack and the black coating comes off. These are available from Honda for about $80.00

 

- Preludes weren't an "option heavy" car. Meaning, there wasn't much you could add as an option. They all came with PS, PB, ABS, dual airbags, CD player, sunroof, power windows and mirrors, intermittent wipers and so on. Canadians such as myself got heated mirrors and seats. The only real options you could get were the lip kit (discontinued and expensive), a tape deck, window/sunroof visors, spoiler for base models, leather seats, wood grain or CF interior trim, and, the small round USDM fog lights. I'll talk about the JDM fog lights in a bit. Don't be swayed by someone saying it has a ton of options, because it doesn't!

 

- Within the first few seconds of driving, you will (or should hear/feel) a slight buzzing/humming sound. This is normal. It is the ABS system testing itself.

 

- Sunroof drains can become clogged and cause the back seats to become wet.

 

- Seatbelt rollers will eventually stop retracting the seatbelts.

 

 

 

 

Things I looked for when buying my car: (keep in mind I was very nit picky about what I wanted on mine, you may not want a mint condition turn-key daily driver. You may want a project)

 

- Headlights. Do they jiggle? If they do, the tabs are broken and you will have a hard time aligning the headlights. This is caused by people leaning on the headlight or slamming the hood. The headlights are expensive, and a pain to replace (you have to remove the bumper).

 

- VIN stickers. Under hood, half way up both fenders, on the door edges, drivers side near the trie pressure tag, and, trunk lid. These are small white strips which have the cars VIN number printed on them. If these are missing, it could mean that panel has been replaced, or the previous owner removed them. If they are in place, it is a good sign.

The fender VIN stickers can see seen in this picture of my engine bay. The passenger side sticker is half way between the headlight and the firewall (just in front of the hood support).

carstuff089.jpg

 

- Modifications. What has been done to the car. If mods are present, look closely for damage and signs of abuse!

 

- Full compliment of keys. 2 Black, 1 Gray, 1 Red.

 

- Radio code.

 

- Does it come with floor mats? These are discontinued, rare and extremely expensive!

 

- Does it have the OEM lip kit? This is also discontinued and expensive. Though prices are coming down now that replicas are being offered.

 

- Cluster lights. The ATTS light should briefly illuminate when the car is started. It should not stay on.

 

- Look for JDM options the previous owner may have installed. JDM fog lights are a nice touch. These completely fill the space below the turn signal. Genuine JDM fog lights are extremely expensive and were quite rare. Replicas are now available on eBay. Don't be suckered in by someone claiming they have rare JDM fogs. Everyone and their dog can have "JDM" fogs these days.

 

- Listen for clunking when going over bumps. This is indicative of "shock knock"

 

- Watch for 5th gear grind.

 

- Cycle the heating and a/c controls and make sure the temperatures change. The cables on the sliders sometimes rust and bind, or can come loose leaving you with no heat or a/c. I was stuck in the dead of winter without heat because of a loose cable.

 

 

 

I'll think of more later.. I'm bored now...

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NO ONE said the car was bad.. ever.. its big and heavy and understeers... /fact... deal with it

 

 

I know a few preludes who autocross.. still cant compete well with miatas and similar IMO

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

anyway since he wont be back on for a while if ever im done with this thread... no point in posting in it... hopefully he makes it back safely

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