kxrider125 Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Ok hey yall im a honda Newb but heres the deal. I will be buying a CRX shell (no motor no trans). I drive to school everyday (UTI) about 1.5 hours 1 way. I will be building the CRX for MPG and MPG ONLY. my plans for a motor is a D16Z6 and as for a trans a stock one. Or a diferent one? other things i will do is gut the car noting besides 1 seat, gauge cluster, pedals, and a stick out of the floor. I will also be taking all the windows out besides Driver and windshield. The other windows will be plexyglass. Bumpers will be removed but i will pit the bumper covers back on. My questions to you are Is this a good idea? What are some things you would do different? what should i do in the lines of Intake and Exhaust(Keep in mind i have a friend that can tune the car). i dunno just let me know i guess. what you think my milage will be on my idea if it dont change? like i said im a honda newb any help would be great sorry about spellin i suck at it Thanks for the help James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrIaN EG2 Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 why would you make it like a race car if youre just using it for MPG purposes? i understand itll relieve alot of weight but you dont want the comfort and "luxury" compared to a fully gutted car? hope this isnt going to be a DD, because youll end up hating it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kxrider125 Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 if it gets that bad ill put a radio in it i want it to be as light a pos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Ok hey yall im a honda Newb but heres the deal. I will be buying a CRX shell (no motor no trans). I drive to school everyday (UTI) about 1.5 hours 1 way. I will be building the CRX for MPG and MPG ONLY. my plans for a motor is a D16Z6 and as for a trans a stock one. Or a diferent one? other things i will do is gut the car noting besides 1 seat, gauge cluster, pedals, and a stick out of the floor. I will also be taking all the windows out besides Driver and windshield. The other windows will be plexyglass. Bumpers will be removed but i will pit the bumper covers back on. My questions to you are Is this a good idea? What are some things you would do different? what should i do in the lines of Intake and Exhaust(Keep in mind i have a friend that can tune the car). i dunno just let me know i guess. what you think my milage will be on my idea if it dont change? like i said im a honda newb any help would be great sorry about spellin i suck at it Thanks for the help James I'm all for getting better gas mileage....but risking your life to do so is not worth it. DO NOT take out the core metal bumpers or you will die in a front end collision....seriously. D16z6 is good, but I think you'd do just as well with a D16a6 and it would be a lot easier to install. D16a6 with HF tranny would put you in the 40's mpg would be my guess. I have a D15b1 with the 4 speed tranny (sounds strung out on the highway) and I still get 36-37mpg average with mostly highway driving. If your highways are flat without a lot of hills.....you'd get great gas mileage with a D15b1 and an HF tranny....but it will be weak in 5th so many hills and you'd have to downshift into 4th. If I remember correctly...the HF tranny and 4 speed tranny are very similarly geared.....just one has the added 5th to drop the rpms for the highway. If I was you....I'd find a D15b1 (probably cost you $100-150 in good shape) and an HF tranny (another 100-150). You'd need HF axles as well. For probably $500 you could have a setup that would get 40's easily...if not high 40's to low 50's with the right type of driving. I would not recommend a Cold Air Intake or exhaust. The more air you put into the engine, the more fuel the ecu will dump in there to keep the mixture stoich. For reference...my car loses about 3-4mpg in the winter because of the colder air. Same goes with exhaust....faster exhaust going out means more can come in and it will add more fuel to keep from running lean. Leave the engine stock.....lower it slightly and put a custom Home Depot front lip on the front for aerodynamics and inflate your tires to near their max sidewall psi rating. Those things alone will gain you a couple mpg. Then have your friend tune the car for gas mileage....you could be golden in the 50's mpg pretty easily for flat highway driving (not many hills)...maybe even better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 a z6 is not the best option for a mpg car. if you want maximum mpg find someone with a full hf drivetrain you could buy for $100-$200. It only produces 65hp or something ridiculous but you should easily get 40+ even with the full interior installed. replacing the windows with plexi is not practical. the amount of weight you save in relation to the price and effort involved in installing them and you should see a return on your investment in 3-4 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kxrider125 Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 the roads here are pretty flat im by chi town so ya. my speed i try to keep it 75 all the way there slow down a bit for the g ma that want to roll in the fast lane lol. and my goal is 45-55 mpg. this will be my last reply till i get off school Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Ok hey yall im a honda Newb but heres the deal. I will be buying a CRX shell (no motor no trans). I drive to school everyday (UTI) about 1.5 hours 1 way. I will be building the CRX for MPG and MPG ONLY. my plans for a motor is a D16Z6 and as for a trans a stock one. Or a diferent one? other things i will do is gut the car noting besides 1 seat, gauge cluster, pedals, and a stick out of the floor. I will also be taking all the windows out besides Driver and windshield. The other windows will be plexyglass. Bumpers will be removed but i will pit the bumper covers back on. My questions to you are Is this a good idea? What are some things you would do different? what should i do in the lines of Intake and Exhaust(Keep in mind i have a friend that can tune the car). i dunno just let me know i guess. what you think my milage will be on my idea if it dont change? like i said im a honda newb any help would be great sorry about spellin i suck at it Thanks for the help James keep the bumpers on you don't want to die in a 20mph crash because you had no structural support. loose weight from the interior by taking out parts you don't need. don't swap out the windows either they weigh what 10lb? if they aren't already manual windows you could switch them over to that but seriously plexiglass aint cheap, you'd be better off saving the money for gas. ask ssr about gearing options. stick with lightweight wheels (steelies are pretty much the lightest you can go right?). change your driving habbits (stay between 2500-3000rpm, coast as much as you can, keep it around 65-70mph, anticipate traffic stops so that you can roll up to them without coming to a complete stop, follow the tree hugger in the prius she's prolly driving the same way) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 follow the tree hugger in the prius she's prolly driving the same way) Not always. Seems like some people in my town use the 'green' car excuse to justify speeding like a damn demon. I nearly got my doors blown off by a lady in a prius easily doing 85/90 in a 55 zone last night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrIaN EG2 Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 steelies are pretty much the lightest you can go right?. my slips weight 3 pounds less each wheel than my steelies if i can remember correctly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 my slips weight 3 pounds less each wheel than my steelies if i can remember correctly Yeah, but your tires weigh probably 8 pounds more than the stock size rubber. People never factor in the weight of tires...but there can be a weight variation of 5 pounds between makes of tires....in the same exact size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 The stock 13" crx wheels will suffice. With an HF tranny and d15 in a rex, you should get close to 50mpg. I used to average 40-43 in my eg d15b7 with fill interior, and 75 lbs of stereo equipment. I actually got 45 mpg on a road trip with 800 lbs in the car. That made my 2200lb civic 3000 pounds!! Now with an 1800lb crx, with longer gearing, that number would have been closer to 55mpg or better. Another little trick to bump the mpg would be to rout the intake close to the exhaust manifold. Hotter air will yield less power and more mpg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrIaN EG2 Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Yeah, but your tires weigh probably 8 pounds more than the stock size rubber. People never factor in the weight of tires...but there can be a weight variation of 5 pounds between makes of tires....in the same exact size. yeah true... but the stock steelies tires are hugemongous and ill be running the thinnest tires i can on the slips.. which are 205/40/16's right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 yeah true... but the stock steelies tires are hugemongous and ill be running the thinnest tires i can on the slips.. which are 205/40/16's right now I think the width makes more weight difference than the height...the wider the tire the more steel in the belts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 I think the width makes more weight difference than the height...the wider the tire the more steel in the belts. Also with a wider contact patch, higher rolling resistance. The 175/70/13 are perfect for a high MPG machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Not always. Seems like some people in my town use the 'green' car excuse to justify speeding like a damn demon. I nearly got my doors blown off by a lady in a prius easily doing 85/90 in a 55 zone last night. over here in comnifornia they drive epically slow and piss everyone off. try following one up a 2 lane road to big bear (mountain road) >_< Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 The different in the tires is substantial. I went from the stock 175/75/13 (I think) on the sol to the slip knockoffs with 205/55/15 and the mpg on the 93 Del Sol S went from 42 avg down to 38. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 i've aslo noticed tha the taller gears also don't really net you better mpg. i net better mpg at 70-75mph because i'm in the powerband in 5th gear. if you get your speed down into the 60ish mph range and get shorter gearing you will have the benefit of efficiancy since the motor will be in the power band as well as the lower wind resistance due to lower speeds. also i'd do away with all accesories other than the alternator. some may say light weight underdrive pulleys as well but some have found their effects on the electrical system and balance of the motor to be questionable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shak3yb0n3z Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 seriously you don't need to gut your ride. you can achieve 40-50mpg with full interior. just keep the intake and exhaust stock. do some aero mods and learn about hypermiling. how far is your commute? i attend uti in glendale heights also. i drive my del sol mainly and manage to squeeze 350 to the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 seriously you don't need to gut your ride. you can achieve 40-50mpg with full interior. just keep the intake and exhaust stock. do some aero mods and learn about hypermiling. how far is your commute? i attend uti in glendale heights also. i drive my del sol mainly and manage to squeeze 350 to the tank. 350? I achieved 450 miles and had a gallon left in my tank. I could have got 500 miles on a tank if i pushed it. d15b7. all stock plus a lot of weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kxrider125 Posted April 25, 2009 Author Share Posted April 25, 2009 ehhh not to far i come from woodstock il i drive a 2009 subaru impreza red i think i have the only one there im getting like 400 a take but its like 30-35 to fill and i want the best gas milage. 40 - 50 is a low 60 70 80 the higher the better lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe W Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 Get a dx drive it reasonbly and enjoy the 42-45mpg or get an HF and enjoy the 50+mpg. I have had both and can attest to these numbers, still have the HF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 Referring to miles driven per tank is entirely worthless. In fact, it is worse then worthless. It is ginger. How useful of a comparison is it? I get 500 miles+ in my v8 ram. Beat that! MUHAHAHA. I have better miles per tank then you. My truck is better! Take your time and record a useful number, then come back and start a conversation. On thing that is repeatedly overlooked is the unevenness of the undercarriage. People have been having great success with installing fiberglass and urethane 'plates' under the car and engine compartment to cut down on turbulence. One popular spot is to install a plate that goes from the bottom of the rear bumper down and attaches just after the rear suspension parts. This deflects airflow from the giant parachute that the rear bumper turns into at highway speed. Paying attention to aero can net you 10-20% increases alone without even changing driving habits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrIaN EG2 Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 all stock plus a lot of weight. true story and imo D15B7 = fail i have one and am getting rid of it as soon as possible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe W Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 That is kinda extreme to me for street purpose, but that is def true better aero is prob better than engine and gearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrIaN EG2 Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 Referring to miles driven per tank is entirely worthless. In fact, it is worse then worthless. It is ginger. How useful of a comparison is it? I get 500 miles+ in my v8 ram. Beat that! MUHAHAHA. I have better miles per tank then you. My truck is better! Take your time and record a useful number, then come back and start a conversation. On thing that is repeatedly overlooked is the unevenness of the undercarriage. People have been having great success with installing fiberglass and urethane 'plates' under the car and engine compartment to cut down on turbulence. One popular spot is to install a plate that goes from the bottom of the rear bumper down and attaches just after the rear suspension parts. This deflects airflow from the giant parachute that the rear bumper turns into at highway speed. Paying attention to aero can net you 10-20% increases alone without even changing driving habits. LMAO!! i wonder if they make that plate for a del sol? ive seen them for evo's, i was thinking about getting one back when i had the evo... wouldnt that be called a diffuser? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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