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CleanGSR

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So, I registered but I never got my activation email. So I go to the section that has them re-send the activation email twice (about 8 hours ago) and still never received it.

 

The funny part is that it says "if you have problem activating your account, please contact the board administrator"......LOL. You CAN'T contact the administrator if you don't have an activated account....I can't even see who the administrator is without being logged in to an active account.

 

 

So, if anybody on here is a member on that forum....please shoot the admin a message for me. My s/n is NateS.

 

Edit: And no, it is not going to a spam folder....it's not coming in at all to my email.

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LOL I had the same problem when registering to civicforums. Funny how there's no way to contact anyone...

 

Took I think a week or two to get a confirmation. The admin might have it set up so he manually approves ppl or something.

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LOL I had the same problem when registering to civicforums. Funny how there's no way to contact anyone...

 

Took I think a week or two to get a confirmation. The admin might have it set up so he manually approves ppl or something.

 

It said they would send an actiavtion email... :crazy:

 

It sucks cause I had a pretty good question in my head (still do) but if it takes a week or so, I'll probably forget about it.

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What was the question Nate?

 

I can probably get you an answer. I have a good friend out here who build turbo d's. I can ask him for ya if you want me too.

 

My question is about the potential of a lowly D15b1. My original plans were to swap an a6 and shoot for 200-220whp. However I want to know if you could hit 170whp on a D15b1 with a similar setup. If so, I will just boost my current motor and then wait on swapping an a6 until I can build it with vitaras.

 

The setup on the D15b1 would be

 

Complete MPFI swap

Si Tranny (not motor but worth mentioning)

HF manifold + adapter plate

14b turbo at around 9-10 psi

Ebay Godspeed FMIC/piping

2.5-3" exhaust (whatever I find out works best for this setup)

DSM 450cc injectors

all other turbo stuff like bov, oil and coolant lines

Dyno tuned on turbo edit (obd-0)

 

 

My original plans were to do all that on an a6 and shoot for 200-220whp mark (200whp would make me happy) but I got to thinking that if I could hit around 170whp on the D15b1 with that setup then that would satisfy my cravings for awhile and should be good enough to dip in the 13's with my suspension and better tires.

 

I don't know whether that is a stretch to hit that though. A6 comes with 106hp (I think) and people are hitting 200whp easily which is well over a 100whp gain My motor only has something like 72hp but the MPFI swap would jump that about 10-15 by itself so a 100whp gain over 85hp would be around the 170whp mark......just don't know if the D15b1 can handle that kind of power the way the a6/z6/y7 can.

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i got a ? for ya. If you turbo ur dd are there different kinds of motors that can handle the turbo better. I kno you have to have certain req for it but i was told that if u turbo ur dd that u will have alot of probs down the road and are going to have to put alot of money in the engine about each year to keep it up. my friend had his cav turboed and he runs into the same probs until he just took it off.

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i got a ? for ya. If you turbo ur dd are there different kinds of motors that can handle the turbo better. I kno you have to have certain req for it but i was told that if u turbo ur dd that u will have alot of probs down the road and are going to have to put alot of money in the engine about each year to keep it up. my friend had his cav turboed and he runs into the same probs until he just took it off.

 

Not true at all. On the website I posted this thread about there are a ton of guys running turbod16's in the 200-220whp range...daily driven for years without problems. As long as A. You don't exceed the power limits of the engine and B. You have a good tune on the setup, then you'll be fine. The limit is around 200-220whp on the D16's and after that you start running into problems with the rods being the weakpoint. What I'm trying to find out in here is where that limit is on the D15b1 so that I can have a reliable turbo daily driver.

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Not true at all. On the website I posted this thread about there are a ton of guys running turbod16's in the 200-220whp range...daily driven for years without problems. As long as A. You don't exceed the power limits of the engine and B. You have a good tune on the setup, then you'll be fine. The limit is around 200-220whp on the D16's and after that you start running into problems with the rods being the weakpoint. What I'm trying to find out in here is where that limit is on the D15b1 so that I can have a reliable turbo daily driver.

 

 

ah word gotcha so pretty much they just had a screwed up setup.

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this is from another forum: btw the first dude is talkin bout d15

 

member #1:limit the boost to 7lbs unless you have low compression pistons like 8:1http://www.vecco.com/honda_kits.htm

 

member #2:--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

I would recommend the D16 turbo because of the displacement. Make sure you dont go over 7PSI considering it may affect engine parts. If you need to go over 7PSI, try have a compression ratio of 8.1

 

member #3

 

There really isn't going to be much of a difference at all. Honestly, you're talking about a difference of a few hp and a few tq. Just get what you can find for cheaper, and more readily available. If I were you, I'd also try to get the P28 ECU (D16Z6 ecu), for whichever one you go with. Otherwise you'll have to deal with the 1-wire O2 sensor, and having a jdm ecu that isn't as easily chipped as the P28 (unless you go with hondata S300).

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this is from another forum: btw the first dude is talkin bout d15

 

member #1:limit the boost to 7lbs unless you have low compression pistons like 8:1http://www.vecco.com/honda_kits.htm

 

member #2:--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

I would recommend the D16 turbo because of the displacement. Make sure you dont go over 7PSI considering it may affect engine parts. If you need to go over 7PSI, try have a compression ratio of 8.1

 

member #3

 

There really isn't going to be much of a difference at all. Honestly, you're talking about a difference of a few hp and a few tq. Just get what you can find for cheaper, and more readily available. If I were you, I'd also try to get the P28 ECU (D16Z6 ecu), for whichever one you go with. Otherwise you'll have to deal with the 1-wire O2 sensor, and having a jdm ecu that isn't as easily chipped as the P28 (unless you go with hondata S300).

 

Yeah, those guys haven't got a clue what they are talking about. It doesn't matter how much psi you run, what matter is how much horsepower you are running. There's going to be the same stress on the motor at 200whp regardless of wether it too 7 or 12 psi to get there.

 

I don't want to know how much psi I can run on a D15 because there is no answer to that....I want to know what amount of power I can make with a D15b1 before the rods stretch or other internals start to hit their limit.

 

There's more cases than I can count where people have been running 12psi and been fine for years with a good tune. There was a guy that had an Integra LS on 18psi and it ran fine for over a year (before he built it for more power) and he never had a single problem because of the good tune he did.

 

At 8:1 compression (like stated in that quote) a D16 could probably hold around 25psi daily driven and still be reliable. At 8.5:1 on vitaras people run 20psi daily for years at a time.

 

I know about turbos and D16's, etc.... I don't know about the D15b1 and it's capabilities.

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yes deffinately those three guys dont know jack crap.

 

IMO you're going to get a better response from the guys at D-series.org since they are a bit more expereienced, as well as very international. Only problem is that they aren't huge fans of 'bench racing'...

 

But here's my thoughts on the question. the d15b1 uses the same rods I believe as the d15b7, basically yeilding the same limitations in what the d15b1 is capable of handeling...So will 170 be a huge stretch for you to get to and be reliable, i dont think so.

 

in the mean time find yourself an a6 block and get some tuner toy rods in there.

 

Oh and one more thing, stock honda compression on the majority of their engines is in the 9-1 range and is perfect for boost. A lower CR just gives more room for a crapty tune. Only reason as to why so many people use the 8.5-1 vitara's is because they are so readily available, cheap and can withistand around 400+hp

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I'm just wondering Nate...are those numbers at the crank or at the wheels? Because my D17A2 is rated at 127hp, but people have dynoed it stock and came up with numbers like 105fwhp.

I know that you know theres a loss of power to the wheels, but I'm just wondering which numbers you're looking at?

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yes deffinately those three guys dont know jack crap.

 

IMO you're going to get a better response from the guys at D-series.org since they are a bit more expereienced, as well as very international. Only problem is that they aren't huge fans of 'bench racing'...

 

But here's my thoughts on the question. the d15b1 uses the same rods I believe as the d15b7, basically yeilding the same limitations in what the d15b1 is capable of handeling...So will 170 be a huge stretch for you to get to and be reliable, i dont think so.

 

in the mean time find yourself an a6 block and get some tuner toy rods in there.

 

Oh and one more thing, stock honda compression on the majority of their engines is in the 9-1 range and is perfect for boost. A lower CR just gives more room for a crapty tune. Only reason as to why so many people use the 8.5-1 vitara's is because they are so readily available, cheap and can withistand around 400+hp

 

You would call this "bench racing"?? I'm not doing a how much horsepower will this setup make....more a, how much horsepower can this stock motor safely handle. It's clear that the a6/z6 limit is around 200-220whp mark so all I'm asking is where that same limit is on the D15b1. I listed my planned turbo setup for clarification of how I plan to get to my "goal".

 

So......am I understanding you right that you think stock pistons with tuner toys rods could handle some fairly big numbers. I know the rods are the weak point but could the 300whp mark be hit safely with stock pistons and forged tuner toys rods? Then again, if you are already in there...why not spend the 100 bucks on vitaras and throw them in there too.

 

Meh...you've just got me running in circles now. My plan is to hit 170whp range with the b1 and the setup I listed to run while I build a vitara/tuner toys a6, then swap everything over except a better mani and bigger turbo and shoot for 350whp on that setup. The vitara setup will be a couple years down the road though so I'm looking to make my car quick for as cheap as possible but still retain reliability. I guess I could always set up the 14b setup on my B1 at 9-10psi, get it tuned and just be happy with what it is.

 

I'm just wondering Nate...are those numbers at the crank or at the wheels? Because my D17A2 is rated at 127hp, but people have dynoed it stock and came up with numbers like 105fwhp.

I know that you know theres a loss of power to the wheels, but I'm just wondering which numbers you're looking at?

 

Flywheel...but the MPFI swap should put it around 85-90hp (flywheel) which is probably around 70whp....so 170whp would be an increase of 100whp over pre-turbo. Just like the a6 is 106hp which is probably closer to 90whp, so 200-220whp is 110-130whp gain. So I'm looking at around the same gain over stock as with a D16a6...just curious as to whether it can handle it.

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That's a great question Nate, I'm curious to the answer to this. I've got a d15b2 and b6 and thinking of a boosted mini-me. Like you though I need it to be reliable.

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So why don't you just replace the connecting rods just to be safe? 170 seems like a safe point to stay with stock rods. Especially since your engine has such low mileage.

 

I've been looking for cams, springs, retainers, and rods myself. Crower seems to make all of those for the D17A2, but I can't find pistons. Would Vitara pistons work for me too or no?

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ill post back later, im taking a quick coffee break while im pulling my engine out, just to put a damn helicoil in the timing belt tensioner bolt spot since it stripped out on me.

 

but real quick wannabe...d15b(#) (not the jdm d15b) still only has pauter rods available fjt's should be out soon the last i heard. these pauter rods cost around $900. so yea thats not gonna be happening.(not to speak for you nate)

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ill post back later, im taking a quick coffee break while im pulling my engine out, just to put a damn helicoil in the timing belt tensioner bolt spot since it stripped out on me.

 

but real quick wannabe...d15b(#) (not the jdm d15b) still only has pauter rods available fjt's should be out soon the last i heard. these pauter rods cost around $900. so yea thats not gonna be happening.(not to speak for you nate)

I'm not understanding any of that dood... :crazy:

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I'm not understanding any of that dood... :crazy:

 

I think what he is trying to say is that the only aftermarket rods available for the D15b# series are 900 bucks a set which is kind of pointless since you could get an a6, vitaras, forged rods....all for about 900 bucks.

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Yeah, those guys haven't got a clue what they are talking about. It doesn't matter how much psi you run, what matter is how much horsepower you are running. There's going to be the same stress on the motor at 200whp regardless of wether it too 7 or 12 psi to get there.

 

I don't want to know how much psi I can run on a D15 because there is no answer to that....I want to know what amount of power I can make with a D15b1 before the rods stretch or other internals start to hit their limit.

 

There's more cases than I can count where people have been running 12psi and been fine for years with a good tune. There was a guy that had an Integra LS on 18psi and it ran fine for over a year (before he built it for more power) and he never had a single problem because of the good tune he did.

 

At 8:1 compression (like stated in that quote) a D16 could probably hold around 25psi daily driven and still be reliable. At 8.5:1 on vitaras people run 20psi daily for years at a time.

 

I know about turbos and D16's, etc.... I don't know about the D15b1 and it's capabilities.

 

 

aight well my bad dude i was just browsing that forum to see if i could find something. I dont know about motors i do body work so my bad.

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So why don't you just replace the connecting rods just to be safe?

 

 

Yea nate's right on the money with what i was getting at, and I posted that in response to what you had posted above.

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Yea nate's right on the money with what i was getting at, and I posted that in response to what you had posted above.

Yea I realized that right afterwards lol. I thought you were trying to answer my second question.

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