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i didnt see the need to adjust mine, so i just went with springs

if i go with springs i need, springs, camber kit, and struts. do coil-overs come with camber kits?:-

 

if i can jus replace the struts and springs with the coilovers i might just do that.

 

i dont know much about suspension upgrades if u havent figured that out yet :sleep2: lol, so all the help i can get is welcome :thumbsup:

 

but im going to bed now lol

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Full coilover sets come with the sleeves and struts, I'm pretty sure. Just the sleeves is the equivalent of just ordering springs, which wouldn't solve your main problem of needing struts.

 

Camber kits are cheap, and not required depending on how much you drop. If you don't drop more than 2 inches you can often get away without one as long as you get a good alignment. Then again, you can get an ingalls kit for like 35 bucks so maybe they're worth it just for piece of mind.

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Technically the stock setup is a coilover. Your coil spring goes over the shock/strut assembly. You can get full coilovers(depending on the brand) around the same you would pay for a mixed setup ie. Ground control and koni yellow/tokico illumina.

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Replace

 

Spring

Strut

Rear LCA (most likely the bolts will sieze)

Front and Rear Camber Kit

---->you can do the "washer trick" in the rear, which is cheaper than the adjustable arm.

 

Look into D2, Ksport, Omni-power, Function&Form, etc...they're all the same.

 

A DA needs at least a 2" drop in order to look good IMO, otherwise looks like Billy's 4x4.

 

Get a Blox rear LCA for a DC2, they're the same for the DA and newer tegs.

 

Installation is cake.

 

:)

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Replace

 

Spring

Strut

Rear LCA (most likely the bolts will sieze)

Front and Rear Camber Kit

---->you can do the "washer trick" in the rear, which is cheaper than the adjustable arm.

 

A DA needs at least a 2" drop in order to look good IMO, otherwise looks like Billy's 4x4.

 

Get a Blox rear LCA for a DC2, they're the same for the DA and newer tegs.

yeah ima do some reasearch on the washer trick ive been hearing a lot about l8ly.

 

im getting 16s so i would like to go with a 2 inch drop but here in WV roads are crazy wierd. there was a guy talking on another forum and he was sayin hes got a 1.75 inch drop and cause of the roads in his teritory he had to replace his header from the damage, although that could be from lack of drivin or knowledge im takin that the road conditions into consideration. i think i want coil overs so i can adjust them to whats sutable for the driving experience "around these parts"

 

and god forbid our governor do anything about our roads...hes to buisy wasting all the towns money painting his lawn green! NO LIE, thats WV for ya.

 

dan ur right they do look like 4x4s.lol

 

noob question...are LCA's to help make ur ride stiffer?:- i refuse to put something on my car that i dont know the purpose of.

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Lower Control Arms are part of what connects your suspension to your car. The reason you will need to replace them is because the bolts connecting them to your suspension setup are almost guaranteed to be seized. You can either order them now or wait to start install of your new suspension stuff and then have to wait while you order the LCAs you find out you'll need.

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Lower Control Arms are part of what connects your suspension to your car. The reason you will need to replace them is because the bolts connecting them to your suspension setup are almost guaranteed to be seized. You can either order them now or wait to start install of your new suspension stuff and then have to wait while you order the LCAs you find out you'll need.

 

Unless you are EXTREMELY lucky, like i was. Still after going through what i did to get them off i would def buy new ones.

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Lower Control Arms are part of what connects your suspension to your car. The reason you will need to replace them is because the bolts connecting them to your suspension setup are almost guaranteed to be seized. You can either order them now or wait to start install of your new suspension stuff and then have to wait while you order the LCAs you find out you'll need.

awesome, thanx.

 

guess ill add that to my list of ever growing mods.lol

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Do full coilovers come with camber adjusting, or do i have to buy the camber kit seperate?

 

D2 has a set with 36 way damping adjustment...explain plz???

 

Man, for full coilovers, LCA's, and f/r camber kit, its going to be around 1100 bucks$$$!!! Man exhaust might just have to wait :dry:

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a camber kit comes seperate.

FRIK!

 

maybe this whole car thing isnt such a good idea.lol

 

ill just buy ebay coilover sleeves for 40 bucks...NOT lol

 

i think ive found the set up i want, but its just a matter of convincing myself to spend the money....

 

TEIN basic damper coilovers (around $750)

Ingals camber kit (f/$49, r/$56...roughly) unless i figure out "the washer trick" 4 the rear.

Skunk 2 LCAs ($200)

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Get ground Controls if you wanna save money.

 

They are only sleeves though, correct? I love my Omni Powers and Jaime, lowcivex has Function Form, I believe. I just say full coilovers, just because you can adjust it to your driving needs and to your streets, since some are terrible and you should ride higher. Plus, you will handle a lot better then springs.

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TEIN basic damper coilovers (around $750)

Ingals camber kit (f/$49, r/$56...roughly) unless i figure out "the washer trick" 4 the rear.

Skunk 2 LCAs ($200)

 

I hear Tein Basic isn't that great, overrated because of the name. You shouldn't need a camber kit, my car is fairly low, could be lower, but I have no problems with camber problems; I just got an alignment. Lower controls arms are not neccessary, if you are short on money, but might as well if you can.

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Well coming from me, who has a DA lowered 2", with horrible camber problems, i'd suggest spending the extra $100 and get a camber kit.

 

you should see the inside of my tires....bald as f*ck.

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I know Robear Racing had the whole Omnipower full coilover kit, which includes you're looking for, all for under 1k. This was back when I was looking to do my suspension and I can't find the same deal from them anymore. But look around and see if you can find it elsewhere.

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Don't need a camber kit.

 

Get ground Controls if you wanna save money.

 

2" is not even much of a drop.

 

Get coilovers. You'll be happier in the end.

i not sayin i dont believe u, but its just hard for me to comprehend that when i lower my car my wheels wont have negative camber...u know wat im sayin? i want to believe u though. i might just play it safe and get the camber kit anyway, due to dans experience(thanx)

 

yeah i know im def getting coilovers and i hope ill be happy in the end. i checked the installation manual on teins website and they made it sound like i needed to be a rocket scientist for the install but i think i can handle it.

 

yeah im not gettin LCAs now...today i checked the bolts on my stock LCAs and the seem to be ubber solid so that should shave some $ of my budget.

 

what do u guys think of these...KSPORT KONTROL Im going to check out the groundcontrol coilovers like u said but i found these l8 last night and was just a lil curious. they dont look like they fit my car...for instance the back coilovers should have a u shaped bracket that bolts onto the LCA and they dont seem to have them...opinions???

 

thanx again

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What Mike is saying is that the camber is not going to be the main cause of premature wear... it's the toe being out that will be the main cause which can be fixed with a basic alignment.

 

I bet nobody has thought about this, but do you realize how many cars come with negative camber stock (Integra's for one). 1 degree negative camber is within factory specs on my car. Some BMW's come with serious negative camber stock..... they don't suffer premature wear (unless from burnouts). I personally believe that if your camber is under 2 degrees you don't need a camber kit. Your tires will go bald on the insides before the rest of the tire.....but calculate the miles and you're still getting nearly the same life, just not wearing out the whole tire over the course of it's life.

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dohc1991, when you say solid do mean the bolts aren't budging when you try to loosen them or solid in that they turn? Because if it's the first one that means you WILL need LCAs since you'll need to unscrew the bolts holding them on there to change your struts.

 

Also, if you can't find something that the manufacturer says was made to fit your car, don't buy it! I can virtually promise you that it won't fit.

 

What you say about some degree of negative camber being acceptible even on stock rides is true, Hung. I think on mine it can go out -1.5 to +1 and still be called okay.

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