xalexjx@yahoo.com Posted February 15, 2006 Share Posted February 15, 2006 B Series Swap Information NOTES: if you plan to keep you civic A/C system, you will need a del sol VTEC A/C mount to mount the civic compressor on the B-series motor the integra LS/RS/GS was available in automatic, also, the JDM b18c GSR motor was available in automatic. you are not required to do an auto to manual conversion to install a B-series motor in an automatic civic. motor mounts for B-series swaps 92-95 civic: get them from a 94+ integra. you will want all the mounts/brackets. why? you need to put your civic rubber mount parts on the integra metal brackets. use the rear integra tranny bracket and the OEM civic rubber mount. for the upper driver side, use the integra mounts Wires on 4 wire O2: only if cx or dx... WHITE: Signal Wire GREEN: Signal Ground 2 BLACK: Both black wires are the heater circuit wires. Using a P28 ECU (and should work for most obd1 ecu's with 4-wire controls) Run O2 Sensor signal (white) To D14 Run O2 Sensor signal Ground (green) to D22 (or any good Ground) Run O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Control (black) to A6 Run the other black heater circuit power wire to (A25) or any good switched +12VDC source. (you may mix up the black wires... if car dies after it is warm/10-30 seconds, that's the first thing to swap over and troubleshoot.. theres no way to tell one from the other by looking at them) Proper Engine Removal Instructions The following shows a good way to remove your motor. There are plenty of other ways to do it, but this is what we have found to be the easiest way. Remeber, practice safety precautions at all times. Good luck. WARNING *Make sure jacks and safety stands are placed properly and host brackets are attached to the correct position on the engine. *Make sure the vehicle will not roll off stands and fall while you are working under it. CAUTION *Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surface. *Unplug the wiring connectors carefully while holding the connector portion to avoid damage. *Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection. Also be sure that they do not contact other wiring or hoses or interfere with other parts. TOOLS NEEDED * 8mm(1/4 drive * 10mm(1/4 or 3/8 drive) * 12mm(3/8 drive) * 14mm(3/8 or 1/2 drive) * 17mm(1/2 drive) * 19mm(1/2 drive) * 32mm(1/2 drive impact) sockets. * Breaker bar * 1/4 ratchet * 3/8 ratchet * 1/2 ratchet * various extensions * phillips screwdriver * slotted screw driver * 8mm punch * ball joint separator * hammer * needle nose pliers * jack stands * jack * engine hoist * chain TIPS: Listed below are the basic steps to removing an engine. Obviously each person will take their own steps in removing an engine depending on previous experience and personal judgment. Some important tips that will help for first timers are as follows. When removing the roll pin from the shift linkage it is important to use an 8mm drift or an 8mm bolt. Air hammers also work really well if air tools are available. Another difficult aspect of the swap can include breaking the axle nuts. Make sure the socket being used is an impact socket (regular sockets can be used, however don’t be surprised if one is broken) and use plenty of leverage. Obviously the car’s wheels must be on the ground with the emergency brake set so the car is stationary. Other tips will be added accordingly as I’m sure I haven’t covered everything. Good luck! Beginning the Swap: 1. Secure the hood as open as possible. 2. Disconnect the battery negative terminal first, then positive terminal. Remove the battery. 3. Remove the strut brace. (for cars that have one) 4. Disconnect the battery cables from the under-hood fuse/relay box and battery positive terminal. 5. Remove the battery and battery base. 6. Disconnect the connectors from the ECM/PCM. 7. Disconnect the main wire harness connector. 8. Remove the air intake duct and air cleaner housing. Remove the resonator and intake air duct. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector. (OBD1 motors and older will not have the IAT sensor. 9. Disconnect the engine wire harness connector on the left side of the engine compartment. 10. Relieve fuel pressure. 11. Remove the (EVAP) control canister hose and fuel feed hose. 12. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose, fuel return hose and vacuum hose. 13. Remove the throttle cable and loosening the locknut, then slip the cable end out of the accelerator linkage. *NOTE: Take care not to bend the cable when removing it. Always replace any kinked cable with a new one. 14. Disconnect the connectors from the PCM. 15. Remove the grommet and wire harness clamps, then pull out the ECM/PCM connectors. 16. Remove the mounting bolt and lock bolt, then remove the power steering pump belt and pump. 17. Loosen the idler pulley center nut and adjusting bolt, then remove the air conditioning compressor belt. 18. Remove the transmission ground cable and hose clamp. 19. Remove the clutch slave cylinder and line/hose assembly (M/T). 20. Remove the shift cable (CVT). 21. Disconnect the power steering pressure switch connector, and remove the wire harness clamp. 22. Remove the radiator cap. (If car is hot, use caution) 23. Raise the hoist to full height. 24. Remove the front tires/wheels and splash shield. 25. Drain the engine coolant. Loosen the drain plug in the radiator. 26. Drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain plug using a new washer. 27. Drain the engine oil. Reinstall the drain bolt using a new washer. 28. Remove the shift rod and extension rod, commonly referred to as the shift linkage. 29. Remove the AC Compressor. 30. Remove the catalytic converter/exhaust pipe. 31. Remove the damper forks. 32. Disconnect the suspension lower arm ball joints. 33. Remove the driveshafts. 34. Lower the hoist. 35. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and heater hoses. 36. Attach the chain hoist to the engine. 37. Remove the left and right front mount and bracket. 38. Remove the rear mount bracket. 39. Remove the upper bracket. 40. Remove the transmission mount bracket, then remove the transmission mount. 41. Check that the engine/transmission is completely free of vacuum hoses, fuel and coolant hoses and electrical wiring. 42. Slowly raise the engine approximately 150mm. Check once again that all hoses and wires are disconnected from the engine/transmission. 43. Raise the engine all the way, and remove it from the car. That should have your motor out from the bay. Again, take your time with it and make sure everything is unplugged and drained before you remove it. It will make everything cleaner and smoother. Good Luck! There are a few side notes: Both of the following VTEC wires are already wired up on the 92 hatchbacks from the ECU to the shock tower connector. VTEC Solenoid: The wire at the ECU (pin A4) starts out as an orange/white wire. It then turns into a green/yellow wire. It finnally turns into a green/white wire, which is what color the wire on the connector should be. VTEC Oil Pressure Sensor: The wire at the ECU (pin D6) starts out as an orange/blue wire. It then turns into a blue/black wire, which is what color the wire on the connector should be. The connector also has a black wire comming from it. This needs to be grounded. From the factory, it follows the harness to the maingrounding block on the thermostat, but can be grounded anywhere you see fit. Knock Sensor: This will need to be wired up regradless from the ECU. The wire is red/blue at the connector. Secondary Intake Solenoid: This will also have to be wired from the ECU regardless. The wire color is pink/blue at the connector. also i have some detailed pics if you want them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolLesHonda Posted February 15, 2006 Share Posted February 15, 2006 Good post, but it would have been better if you actually composed that yourself. Well, maybe not. But good thread nevertheless. Refer all n00bs to this when asking the same damn question over again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamEj6 Posted February 15, 2006 Share Posted February 15, 2006 where the hell did you find that crap at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted February 15, 2006 Share Posted February 15, 2006 common knoledge for mechanically inclined. hondas are awsome cars to work on easy as pie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xalexjx@yahoo.com Posted February 15, 2006 Author Share Posted February 15, 2006 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EH6TunerDaniel Posted February 15, 2006 Share Posted February 15, 2006 should almost sticky it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xalexjx@yahoo.com Posted February 16, 2006 Author Share Posted February 16, 2006 i also have the same thing on most other swaps..., let me know if you need the info how to wire vtec,, This is something that I see come up, and sometimes people get confused by the written instructions, so here's one with pics. This can also be used for wiring just about anything you need, like a knock sensor, IABs, o2 sensor, whatever. I HIGHLY suggest have a manual with a wiring diagram and the pinouts, for your ECU, you don't want to screw up now that your motors in right? Ok, assuming you have a vtec motor in a non vtec car and you need to wire in vtec y0! here it is... Our demonstrator model is a 95 CX with a OBD I B16A. So you have your motor in the car, and you are using XXXX engine harness, as long as you have the plugs (usually come with motors harness, even JDM, just remove the whole thing from sensor/solenoid, to canon plug from the harness)) you're good. First you need to run the wires... BLU/BLK and GRN/YEL from here... To the canon plugs (shock tower connectors)... Now, if you are using the vtec harness there's no need to remove them as there should be nothing plugged into the connector on the other side (on a vtec car, such as a VX, or 92-93, this part is over, as it will have them already) the wires should match up to empty slots. But if there is something on the other side, simply remove them (vtec wires) to an empty slot with nothing on the otherside. For the cabin side of the canon plug, you need to get the pin from the canon plug, to the ECU (junkyard). you need to get enough pins from a junker to connect whatever you are connecting. Anyway now you have the wires going from the vtec solenoid, to the canon plug and out the other side... Now, make sure the wire coming out of the cabin side of the canon plugs is long enough to go through the firewall, and to the ECU. For the ECU connections same as the canon plugs, you need to acquire the pins. You can pull these out of a junker also. All the pins from the same generation are the same (there are two different sizes in each plug, you'll be using the smaller ones), and I was told that they are all the same from any model, and probably all generations, but I won't swear to it. Here's how to remove the pins from the ECU... If you want to take the time, you can pull the wire al the way from the ECU plug, to the canon plug, but I just splice a couple together, it saves a lot of time. Here is what you should have... The ECU slots on the non vtec models should have nothing in place, just a hole. At this point you should know where the pins go BLU/BLK (in the engine harness, maybe different if you used a different color wire) to D6, GRN/YEL (same as the other) to A4, so what are you waiting for, plug them in already... Any time you need to splice wires together, I suggest soldering them when done, if you can't, at least use a good male/female plug, I like these... Now, you should have vtec y0!, drive around let your car warm up and then let it rip (provided you aren't still throwing a CEL code). If everything is kosher, bolt in your ECU, wrap everything up, and blend it into your harness for that nice clean look. You can also by pass the canon plug, and run a hardwire all the way from sensor to ECU, this works to, but doesn't look as clean. Here is some more wiring pics, to give you some ideas. In the first one, I am using a VX harness (5 wire o2) on a B16A (four wire o2) in a CX (1 wire o2) so I had some issues smile.gif. Anyway, after figuring out what wires were what, I used my handy connectors and connected... For the switched 12V, I used the plug full of YEL/BLKs on the driver side, that goes to the main relay (thanks Poison), and spliced into one of the wires, then ran it to the o2 taping it into the harness once it was all connected, running right... If anyone found a mistake, or has something to add feel free. I hope this can help someone that like me isn't real confident in their wiring abilities. A funny antidote that happened during this, so, my car even though it was a CX had a VX motor in it, so it was wired for vtec, sort of. Anyway there was no vtec kicking in, and I was throwing CEL 21, so I looked, and realized the guy that had swapped in the VX motor, had mix up the vtec wires, so I unplugged the canon plug and made sure what was where, and undid the wires, and switch the two of them right. Well, I get in the car and go to start it, and it's cranking, but nothing, like it has no fuel. So I was like "fawk" pull the codes. I get 6, 15, 21, 41, so I am thinking that switching the wires really screwed something up, so I go and re wire tham like they were, and am looking at it, and then realize, duh, I didn't plug the canon plug back in tongue.gif , So I plug it in and get no codes, I was right, they were backwards, so I went for a cruise to make sure all CELs were gone, hammered it, and all is good. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-CIVIC...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bilstein-Sh...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-DropZon...1QQcmdZViewItem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason5.5 Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 A little note for a few points that can be easily overlooked...Aftermarket engine mounts tend to be lacking the block to left(timing belt side)engine mounting bracket...Also When I noticed this issue(while the car was in the shop getting swapped)I saw that you need a part for the rear mount as well.That part can be found in a 93' Del Sol Si(with B-series Engine)...If you happen to have the 3G integra engine mounts just kicking around you will likely have no problems. One more minor item I ran into was at the shift linkage.The avid racing linkage I obtained lacked bushings...Again having oem backup parts would have saved my ass again...Good luck with your swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xalexjx@yahoo.com Posted April 2, 2006 Author Share Posted April 2, 2006 yeah you need a rear tranny mount, and for certain models you need the upper radiator mounts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xalexjx@yahoo.com Posted April 13, 2006 Author Share Posted April 13, 2006 bump this up again, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Showstopper93 Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 bump.. Awesome thread! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xalexjx@yahoo.com Posted May 30, 2006 Author Share Posted May 30, 2006 dont worry, its in my sticky thread under the swaps section, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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