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Which Head for LS Block


2000LSvtec

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I have a 2000 ls block but which head should i put on. A b16 SIR2 Head or a GSR head, Ive heard that the b16 sir2 will put out much better power gains and is just as easy to install as the GSR. Another question to be asked is about the tranny, should I go along with the B16 Hydrolic Tranny? or any other suggestions would be great!. Thanx

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B16 head.

 

B16 flows better. B18C1 doesn't flow as much but yields a higher compression ratio.

 

B16 and B18C1 are exactly the same to install.

 

B16 tranny. It has shorter gearing.

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Alright thanx SSR, another question that comes to my mind is ECU. Find another B16 ECU for that gen. or would you suggest any after market ECU's that are for OBD2+ because I dont want to go threw the hastle of going to JDM Honda Parts and getting the jumper to go ODB1. Let me Know Thanx!

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Alright thanx SSR, another question that comes to my mind is ECU. Find another B16 ECU for that gen. or would you suggest any after market ECU's that are for OBD2+ because I dont want to go threw the hastle of going to JDM Honda Parts and getting the jumper to go ODB1. Let me Know Thanx!

Just use the Si ECU. You have to have an OEM ECU first to get a chip upgrade.

 

I see a few people on here are interested in doing an LS/VTEC. I'm sure you know it is much more complicated than smacking a VTEC head on. With the stock rods and rod bolts, you will be lucky to have your engine last 1,000 miles after the break in is over. PM me for more info. Write up coming when my build up starts.

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I see a few people on here are interested in doing an LS/VTEC. I'm sure you know it is much more complicated than smacking a VTEC head on. With the stock rods and rod bolts, you will be lucky to have your engine last 1,000 miles after the break in is over.

exactly what he said.

 

as for a price for the head, make an offer please. me s/n's are a few posts above this

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Just use the Si ECU. You have to have an OEM ECU first to get a chip upgrade.

 

I see a few people on here are interested in doing an LS/VTEC. I'm sure you know it is much more complicated than smacking a VTEC head on. With the stock rods and rod bolts, you will be lucky to have your engine last 1,000 miles after the break in is over. PM me for more info. Write up coming when my build up starts.

ls vtec motors using stock internals can last over 1000 miles. my ls vtec was fully built lasted over 85000 miles and now my b20 vtec stock block has over 35000 mile on it and its still running fine.

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Just use the Si ECU.  You have to have an OEM ECU first to get a chip upgrade.

 

I see a few people on here are interested in doing an LS/VTEC.  I'm sure you know it is much more complicated than smacking a VTEC head on.  With the stock rods and rod bolts, you will be lucky to have your engine last 1,000 miles after the break in is over.  PM me for more info.  Write up coming when my build up starts.

ls vtec motors using stock internals can last over 1000 miles. my ls vtec was fully built lasted over 85000 miles and now my b20 vtec stock block has over 35000 mile on it and its still running fine.

If it's fully built, it won't last more than 20 runs down a drag strip.

 

If yours was built for street use, then 85,000 miles sucks ass.

 

If it was built for street/track use, then 40,000 would be pushing it.

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Just use the Si ECU.  You have to have an OEM ECU first to get a chip upgrade.

 

I see a few people on here are interested in doing an LS/VTEC.  I'm sure you know it is much more complicated than smacking a VTEC head on.  With the stock rods and rod bolts, you will be lucky to have your engine last 1,000 miles after the break in is over.  PM me for more info.  Write up coming when my build up starts.

ls vtec motors using stock internals can last over 1000 miles. my ls vtec was fully built lasted over 85000 miles and now my b20 vtec stock block has over 35000 mile on it and its still running fine.

If it's fully built, it won't last more than 20 runs down a drag strip.

 

If yours was built for street use, then 85,000 miles sucks ass.

 

If it was built for street/track use, then 40,000 would be pushing it.

i never said the motors failed. i just switched up from the ls vtec to the b20 vtec.

my ls vtec was fully built and its lasted way more than your "20" drag strips so what do u have to say about that?

 

and about the stock b20 vtec, im still driving it today with no problems.

 

these motors do not "suck ass", its your mechanic that sucks ass.

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i never said the motors failed. i just switched up from the ls vtec to the b20 vtec.

my ls vtec was fully built and its lasted way more than your "20" drag strips so what do u have to say about that?

 

and about the stock b20 vtec, im still driving it today with no problems.

 

these motors do not "suck ass", its your mechanic that sucks ass.

 

So you were running very high lift/long duration cams, 14:1 compression ratio, and all the good stuff? Right.

 

A few more trips to redline and you will have less than 4 complete rods.

 

You said your LS/VTEC was fully built and lsted 85,000. Any N/A Honda engine built for street use won't last longer than 40,000 miles, if it does, then it's not built or is driven by a grandma.

 

I am my own mechanic and I know a lot more than you do.

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i never said the motors failed. i just switched up from the ls vtec to the b20 vtec.

my ls vtec was fully built and its lasted way more than your "20" drag strips so what do u have to say about that?

 

and about the stock b20 vtec, im still driving it today with no problems.

 

these motors do not "suck ass", its your mechanic that sucks ass.

 

So you were running very high lift/long duration cams, 14:1 compression ratio, and all the good stuff? Right.

 

A few more trips to redline and you will have less than 4 complete rods.

 

You said your LS/VTEC was fully built and lsted 85,000. Any N/A Honda engine built for street use won't last longer than 40,000 miles, if it does, then it's not built or is driven by a grandma.

 

I am my own mechanic and I know a lot more than you do.

i never said that i had 14.1 compression, where are you coming up with these thing?

 

btw, a 14.1 compression street car is nearly impossible the regular gas station down the street does not carry high enough octane to prevent detonation.

no car above 12.1 compression will last in the streets.

 

thats good that you know much more than i do. im not here to put you down or throw a big debate, im just here trying to help people with their questions.

 

thats good you are your own mechanic, you still fail to realize in other posts that the b20 pistons are larger in diameter than the b series pistons. i guess that would tell me how many time you built or tore down a motor. bleh

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Fully built means it is a all out track or strip car.

 

Not true, B series engines can run as high as 13:1 compression ratio on pump gas.

 

B series running 12.8:1 cams that are raced will last around 40,000 miles.

 

I never said B18 and B20 parts were compatible, BigBirdSucks did. However, every single part is interchangable other than the pistons.

 

Moron.

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Fully built means it is a all out track or strip car.

 

Not true, B series engines can run as high as 13:1 compression ratio on pump gas.

 

B series running 12.8:1 cams that are raced will last around 40,000 miles.

 

I never said B18 and B20 parts were compatible, BigBirdSucks did.  However, every single part is interchangable other than the pistons.

 

Moron.

thanks for calling me a moron again on this thread. i dont know where you are coming from to have octane that high to be running 13.1 compresion. out here we only have 91 octane.

 

 

to say that a motor only lasts this long and that long is pretty sad. there are too many variables that can cause an engine failure so im gonna leave that alone.

 

it seems like you dont like the b20/ls vtec idea saying it will not last and such. did you ever have one?

 

for some that may not know, a b20/ls vtec motor with the same specs as a b18c5 will beat the b18c5.

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93 octane. It can be done on 91 with very good tuning.

 

It is a known fact that engine built for street/track use will alst about 40,000 miles before they need rebuild if driven as they built to.

 

I love the idea. I bet you don't even know who invented LS/VTEC. I'm going to have a DART/VTEC once I get done with my engine.

 

for some that may not know, a b20/ls vtec motor with the same specs as a b18c5 will beat the b18c5.
No crap. Same bore, stroke, cams, valvetrain, tuning, tolerances, etc will result in the same power if everything is exactly the same. Einstein.
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93 octane. It can be done on 91 with very good tuning.

 

It is a known fact that engine built for street/track use will alst about 40,000 miles before they need rebuild if driven as they built to.

 

I love the idea. I bet you don't even know who invented LS/VTEC. I'm going to have a DART/VTEC once I get done with my engine.

 

No crap. Same bore, stroke, cams, valvetrain, tuning, tolerances, etc will result in the same power if everything is exactly the same. Einstein.

Kevin was one of the first that did the ls vtec concersion. its a known fact, he used to build the team cars for wicked back in the days.

 

ill agree that with extremely good tunning you can run on pump gas.

 

and yes ill agree with the fact that a built motor will need a rebuild before an oem one.

 

race parts werent truely made for high miles but they do last.

 

there are few people out here that had DART blocks. for some reason the sleeves sink after a while.

 

btw: i didnt say that the motors of the same spec will make the same power, i said that the same specs b20/ls vtec will BEAT the b18c5. that mean the b20/ls vtec is the winner.

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Wrong. Omniman invented LS/VTEC when he was still working for Skunk2.

 

I talked with an employee of Payne Technologies on H-T and he said there have been no issues with sinking sleeves. I'll believe him since he works for the company.

 

PT researched and designed the blocks right. If the sleeves sinked after a while like you say they do, The Beast wouldn't even use that block considering it has a 1 year warranty.

 

No crap. Did you really think a 1.8L would beat a 2.0L?

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Wrong. Omniman invented LS/VTEC when he was still working for Skunk2.

 

I talked with an employee of Payne Technologies on H-T and he said there have been no issues with sinking sleeves. I'll believe him since he works for the company.

 

PT researched and designed the blocks right. If the sleeves sinked after a while like you say they do, The Beast wouldn't even use that block considering it has a 1 year warranty.

 

No crap. Did you really think a 1.8L would beat a 2.0L?

i cant say for sure who exactly invented ls vtec but i know for sure kevin was on of the first. before skunk 2 it was skunkworks and ls vtec had been out before skunk 2 came to the scene.

 

tony fusch was one guy that ran an ls vtec setup in his all drag car. this was back in the days when team wicked and cyber were the biggest boys around.

 

all this happened before skunk 2.

 

if you like DART then by all means go for it.

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Oniman did all the research and built the first LS/VTEC.

 

Omnimans site

 

H-T discussion

gees man. i didnt know you jump on bandwagons like that.

 

anyhow, whats ur deal anyway?

 

you dont have an ls vtec...and youre sitting around giving advice to ppl as if you do. stop reading those superstreet magazines and thinking that " i know ls vtecs".

 

i speak from experience, what i had/have and what i do.

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