lastresort576 Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 So I haven't seen these symptoms pop up before and I'm slightly confused. When I go to turn the key on my z6, the fan turns on until I let it go. I've already gone over the connectors and haven't messed that up on any of my prior swaps I did. At first the car was turning over but wasn't getting enough voltage to start up since that battery was junk. I replaced the battery and it hasn't cranked once giving those symptoms above. In theory, my thermostat ground should be all set. I've added one in the past because my prior engine wouldn't run without it...Now I did snap off the bolt in there and drilled it out...But I couldn't see how that might F* anything up Basically just looking for some idea's to try guys so I can get this sol up and running then sold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raley Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 Radiator fan? But the coolant is cold? Sounds like crapty wiring or bad thermostat sensor... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastresort576 Posted January 3, 2011 Author Share Posted January 3, 2011 Radiator fan? But the coolant is cold? Sounds like crapty wiring or bad thermostat sensor... yeah when cold..hmm never thought of the sensor. I'll have to swap that out and see where that leads me.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drkyle96 Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 I observed a similar issue with my 94 Si. When I turned the key to the position before start, the radiator fan kicked on. When turning the engine over, the fan would not run. I discovered that my ECM was bad. To test the ECM: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multi-meter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raley Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 ive never heard that and also i didn't know hondas had ECMs... but yeah it MIGHT be the ecu... weird though... got a spare p28 to chuck in there and test with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drkyle96 Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 ive never heard that and also i didn't know hondas had ECMs... but yeah it MIGHT be the ecu... weird though... got a spare p28 to chuck in there and test with? I'm surprised at you Raley, ECM, Engine Control Module... Honda Part 37820-P28-A02 Genuine Honda CONTROL MODULE, ENGINE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raley Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Damn sarcasm nott translating over the intrawebz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastresort576 Posted January 4, 2011 Author Share Posted January 4, 2011 yeah I'm sure I've got a P06 or something kicking around for an ecu I can plug in and try. If not I'll upload a p28 map on my s300 and toss that in to test it out. I just wish I didn't have to travel 50-minutes to throw different ideas at it. ohwell. I'll let you know when I try those ideas out soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raley Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Distance sucks, if the ecu and sensor are good, id say wiring. Those are really the only options... MAYBE hood fuse box but again hard to tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolSweetie Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 i feel special i was in the attn i feel bad that i dont know why it would do that besides screwy wiring somewhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drkyle96 Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Jeff, I went back and looked at your original post again. After replacing the battery, is the car now turning over, or is it just dead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastresort576 Posted January 4, 2011 Author Share Posted January 4, 2011 Jeff, I went back and looked at your original post again. After replacing the battery, is the car now turning over, or is it just dead? after replacing the battery it is now dead(doing nothing but turning on the fan). Before on the crap battery it was turning over(on a jump box plugged in). However quite slowly, almost as if the starter solenoid was seized. While a buddy turned it over I hit the back of the starter with a hammer and it turned a little better. but no dice..Which was to be expected since I knew the battery was junk in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drkyle96 Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 after replacing the battery it is now dead(doing nothing but turning on the fan). Before on the crap battery it was turning over(on a jump box plugged in). However quite slowly, almost as if the starter solenoid was seized. While a buddy turned it over I hit the back of the starter with a hammer and it turned a little better. but no dice..Which was to be expected since I knew the battery was junk in the first place. Ok, I misread your first message. I had to replace my starter, so it could be that. The starter can be tested by connecting the battery bypassing the ignition switch. I think Helms describes the procedure. If you don't have Helms, I could look up the procedure tonight. Do you have a manual transmission? I also had a bad clutch interlock that I replaced. Have you tried moving the clutch pedal while holding the key? If you have an automatic, I believe there is also an interlock switch connected to the brake pedal. To test the interlock, you can simply jump a wire across the leads (after unplugging the connector). You can also test the switch for conductivity, though I found my to be an intermittent failure. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastresort576 Posted January 4, 2011 Author Share Posted January 4, 2011 Ok, I misread your first message. I had to replace my starter, so it could be that. The starter can be tested by connecting the battery bypassing the ignition switch. I think Helms describes the procedure. If you don't have Helms, I could look up the procedure tonight. Do you have a manual transmission? I also had a bad clutch interlock that I replaced. Have you tried moving the clutch pedal while holding the key? If you have an automatic, I believe there is also an interlock switch connected to the brake pedal. To test the interlock, you can simply jump a wire across the leads (after unplugging the connector). You can also test the switch for conductivity, though I found my to be an intermittent failure. Good luck. It's a manual, and with the car up until it went under the knife not too long ago the switch was stuck so I could start the car without the clutch depressed. I've got a few good spare d-series starters as well I'll toss at it. Then check out the interlock switch..maybe it's finally gone kaput. thanks for the help man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raley Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 frack the interlock, cut splice, hope you dont want cruise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raley Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 My main consern is not even that it wont start but that the fan comes on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastresort576 Posted January 4, 2011 Author Share Posted January 4, 2011 My main consern is not even that it wont start but that the fan comes on. true..for some reason I think I may have had this issue before when I installed the LS in the sol...but can't for the life of me remember how I fixed it lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastresort576 Posted January 7, 2011 Author Share Posted January 7, 2011 So..I worked on the car for a lil today and made no progress. I tried swapping thermostat housing's and switches, Swapped starters, and tossed in my S300 and uploaded a P28 map..Still no dice. EVERY once and a great while I will get the fuel pump to prime. But otherwise for the most part I don't even get the CEL, Bat, and oil light to come on when I put the key in the on position initially...Sometimes after I let go from trying to start it very faintly those lights will show themselves. Tomorrow at a minimum I'm gonna try: 1) A different Main fuel relay..Although I can hear it clicking. 2) A different distributor because I'm thinking it could be a bad ICM.. 3) A different alternator...When I put the engine on my engine stand to work on it before I installed it I noticed the alternator pulley was frozen in place..I proceeded to free it up and spray some WD-40 on it to keep it spinning freely. Other than those idea's I'm at a complete loss and can't think of anything else it could be other than bad wiring..Which I'm skeptical about that one since I did have it starting over but couldn't get enough voltage from the bad battery I initally had..And I've had the car running on the same harness in the past with out issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastresort576 Posted January 7, 2011 Author Share Posted January 7, 2011 I think I may have found the answer. I'm pretty sure it's a grounding issue, even though they should all be good. For documentation/Search purposes of this thread... http://www.honda-tec...%27s+key+turned Towards the end of the thread is where the potential answer lies. And this thread: http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1751861&highlight=Fan+turn%27s+key+turned&page=4 Thanks for the help again guys, I'll report back tomorrow night if this indeed was the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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