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Engine Swap


hondatyper

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ok ssr if he doesn't use nitrous, then what about this motor with a hundred thousand miles on it, unless he has money piled up behind his shed, then he is probably gonna daily drive this so why not make it stronger while its cheapest, or maybe he got fracked up pistons from the factory, and what if he wants to boost the compression there are so many reasons to get new pistons and the only one you have is you dont have to

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If you want to boost it someday you're not going to be able to do with hihg ass compression. You will be able to, for about a day until your motor blows. If you're going to use nitrous, Turbo, S/C, anything like that you're going to want a low compression. The lower the compression the better.

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ok ssr if he doesn't use nitrous, then what about this motor with a hundred thousand miles on it, unless he has money piled up behind his shed, then he is probably gonna daily drive this so why not make it stronger while its cheapest, or maybe he got fracked up pistons from the factory, and what if he wants to boost the compression there are so many reasons to get new pistons and the only one you have is you dont have to

1. Age doesn't matter. His water pump will go out before his pistons do.

 

2. fracked up pistons from the factory in a B16B?

 

3. If he is daily driving it and he raises the compression anymore, then he will have to run on not-out-of-the-pump-gas.

 

4. There is no need for him to get new pistons.

 

5. Go home. You're a dumbass.

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ok ssr if he doesn't use nitrous, then what about this motor with a hundred thousand miles on it, unless he has money piled up behind his shed, then he is probably gonna daily drive this so why not make it stronger while its cheapest, or maybe he got fracked up pistons from the factory, and what if he wants to boost the compression there are so many reasons to get new pistons and the only one you have is you dont have to

1. Age doesn't matter. His water pump will go out before his pistons do.

 

2. fracked up pistons from the factory in a B16B?

 

3. If he is daily driving it and he raises the compression anymore, then he will have to run on not-out-of-the-pump-gas.

 

4. There is no need for him to get new pistons.

 

5. Go home. You're a dumbass.

1. I have quite a few fun stories about water pumps going out.

 

2. true

 

3. not true. I have two different friends running extremely high compression(see: broke a compression tester)and both use pump gas(93 octane though) without any problems at all. and no, they aren't slow.

 

4. if he wants to go forced induction or bottle fed, he'll have to get lower compression pistons.

 

5. did I hear something about a pot calling the kettle black?

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ssr you keep saying im a dumbass but you have yet to wow me with overwhelming knowledge, everything you say you can learn from coming to this forum and doing a couple of searches, and if you tried to run boost on an engine like that that turbo would just get in the way of the intake stroke vacuum and yes it would blow. age doesnt matter, what, maybe age but not mileage, let see what would happen if we raced a 93 civic same model but one that say 150,000 miles on it and one that had 20,000 engines arent invinceable

 

his water pump would go first, wow that one is hard to fix, im sure pistons are a hell of alot easier to change than a water pump,what the hell are you talking about a water pump for his distributor will go before that why not talk about that, or maybe he might need some new belts

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i want all motor no boost and maybe, and thats a big maybe, a 50 shot. i want a strong motor and needs to be a daily driver not too high of compression but high enough to build power. i'm lookin for about 230 - 250 hp @ the wheels all motor if possible. by the way i don't want your smart ass comments super street hunk of crap.

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1. The highest CR you can run with pump gas is 12.8:1. If the weather isn't hot, you can go a little higher.

 

2. He obviously doesn't want F/I as he has not said he does. A 50 shot does not require forged pistons.

 

3. I haven't learned jack crap form this forum. I've learned it through listening and experience.

 

4.

if you tried to run boost on an engine like that that turbo would just get in the way of the intake stroke vacuum and yes it would blow
Okay, that came out of your ass. You have no idea why high CR and f/i is bad so don't talk about it.

 

5. Age is the same as mileage einstein. The one with the lower miles would win. High mileage engines have a lot more lost power than low mileage engines.

 

6. A distributer doesn't have a water pump. If he is smart, he would have replaced the water pump and belts when he got the engine so there is nothing to talk about.

 

7. 12.5:1 will have plenty of power. Look at JJA2's engine. A 1.8L with CTR pistons. Over 200@wheels.

 

8. With pump gas and 1.8L displacement all motor, you won't see 230 unless you build it right and tune the hell out of it.

 

9. Hey dipcrap. I'm the only one helping you.

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A distributer doesn't have a water pump. If he is smart, he would have replaced the water pump and belts when he got the engine so there is nothing to talk about.

if anything came out of anyones ass, that came out of yours, it is a very common fact that a weak spot on honda motors is the distributor, because on almost all hondas is goes at about a 100k,

. Age is the same as mileage einstein. The one with the lower miles would win. High mileage engines have a lot more lost power than low mileage engines.
what about a 1970's car with 20k on it that your grandma bought new and only drove it on sundays, thats an aged car without high miles

and

. by the way i don't want your smart ass comments super street hunk of crap.
hondatyper asked you politley to leave so please respect his wishes before somebody gets their feelings hurt
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hey super street i looked at some other topics and alot of the things you said were all wrong but some things you have said are right. i didn't ask you to leave what i meant was don't say anything unless you are 100% sure. OK? anyway back to topic, i checked my account and i have $2,100 to spend on my motor. i allready have a header, cat-back, cai, and camgears. so what else should i get, remember $2,100.

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A distributer doesn't have a water pump. If he is smart, he would have replaced the water pump and belts when he got the engine so there is nothing to talk about.

if anything came out of anyones ass, that came out of yours, it is a very common fact that a weak spot on honda motors is the distributor, because on almost all hondas is goes at about a 100k,

. Age is the same as mileage einstein. The one with the lower miles would win. High mileage engines have a lot more lost power than low mileage engines.
what about a 1970's car with 20k on it that your grandma bought new and only drove it on sundays, thats an aged car without high miles

and

. by the way i don't want your smart ass comments super street hunk of crap.
hondatyper asked you politley to leave so please respect his wishes before somebody gets their feelings hurt

1. YOU'RE THE DUMBASS WHO SAID DISTRIBUTERS HAD WATER PUMPS SO I CORRECTED YOU. DISTRIBUTERS AREN'T A WEAK SPOT ON HONDAS. WATER PUMPS ARE.

 

2. WTF was the point of that? A 1970's car with low mileage? If you were dumb enough to think that no matter what kind of car it is, then you really are a dumbass.

 

3. You both are n00bs who don't know crap, so I'm here to help.

 

4. Everything I say I am 100% sure about unless I say so.

 

5. Buy B18C rods and a B18C crank. Thats all you need (although injectors wouldn't hurt).

 

6. He doesn't need Crower cams moron. His B16B cams will give him plenty of power, if not more than Crowers.

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Yeah okay buddy.

 

 

Anyways, if you want to make some real power Crower and Crane I believe it is has a stroker kit for the B16A that bores it over to a 2.0, The kit includes everything you need from cams to pistons. I'm not too sure on the price of it but I can find out what the average retail is for you if you would like. If you want to go with some some strong healthy internals go with what I used on my recent B18C build up in my Civic Si:

 

Venom High flow fuel rail

Venom high flow injectors

Venom fuel pressure regulator

HKS circle earth grounding kit

Venom intake manifold

Spoon spark plugs

Nology grounded plug wires

Ported and polished head

Spoon throttle body

Toda Spec B cams

Toda racing cam gears

Toda racing valve springs

Skunk 2 retainers

Unorthadox Racing underdrive pulleys

 

 

This is all with utilizing the stock B18C1 pistons. The car runs like a champ for what little I have driven it. I have to wait for a while before I really beat it ro dyno it to see what it's got. However, I can tell you that it feels much quicker than just the stock Si motor with an 18G turbo on it!

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Yep. You're right, every dyno chart I've ever seen provided by the actual manufacturer's are wrong.

 

 

 

**PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCMENT** DO NOT, REPEAT, DO NOT LISTEN TO ssrx7 WHEN IT COMES TO ANY PERFORMANCE MODS ON YOUR CAR. HE HAS SOME OF THE MOST REDICULOUS SUGGESTIONS AND MAKES SOME OF THE STUPIDEST CLAIMS EVER HEARD ON A HONDA FORUM. ONCE AGAIN, DO NOT FOLLOW HIS ADVICE!!!

Where the hell did dyno's come in at? I'm sure you have a btter bang for your buck suugestion, considering with the rods and crank he can have close to (not considering any current mods) 200WHP for under $400.

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You know what dyno's are don't you? You know those machines that they hook cars up to to see how much power it has. Listen buddy, I'm going to believe the dyno readings and spread sheets that manufacturers send me and not what some kid who doesn't even drive says on a forum! I'm not as dumb as you are my friend.

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You know what dyno's are don't you? You know those machines that they hook cars up to to see how much power it has. Listen buddy, I'm going to believe the dyno readings and spread sheets that manufacturers send me and not what some kid who doesn't even drive says on a forum! I'm not as dumb as you are my friend.

1. I made my last post before your last one showed up mentioning the dyno.

 

2. A set of B18C rods and a B18C crank will cost a lot less than a stroker kit, while still making more power.

 

3. You buildup list is the funniest thing I have read.

 

4. I do drive, so quit imagining.

 

5. Choosing your parts only from the popular manufactuers is more dumb than I can ever be.

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It's dumb huh? So if it's the dumbest thing you've ever heard then why doesn't your favorite import isle at AutoZone have a race car? Why don't they have built motors to run in racecars??? Yeah okay. That's what I thought. Listen bitch like I used to tell you before I don't give a crap about some punk who thinks Auto Zone is the place to go for all performance parts, and reads Super Street to get info! You're opinion isn't worth crap to me ad your a white trash bitch who doesn't know what kind of car you drive if you remeber back so in my opinion you can fawk off and no, bitch I wasn't just owned by you!

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excuse me? I'm a n00b? on this board, yes. to honda engineering and performance, no. I'm on my fourth honda. all of my cars I've either worked on myself or had help from a friend. did I mention, I've worked on various other cars as well? how many hondas have you owned? hell, how many cars have you owned, junior. put your magazines down and learn something. if you have a problem with me, contact me personally.

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Most everyone doubts you will have a B16B engine, because those are extremely hard to come by.

 

But, I suggest going with the H22A engine, because even though it may be a bit heavier, the torque is easier to adjust and boost, plus the H22A engines handle Venom/Nos quite well with the right variables and the right parts, but if you are using this to just show off on the street and beat the occasional rice boy at the red light while he's stylin with his ultra cool cold air intake by AEM.......go with the B16B engine and just spice it up a little bit.....but, if you want to race and you want to win....H22A with the right setup and suspension is the way to go....

 

and let it be known to all.....COLD AIR INTAKE and COOL AIR INTAKE are not cool.

All the rice boys think they bang with those, DAC is the way to go...Direct Air Charger

if your hard up for money and can't buy an actual indy drag racing conversion peice.

 

can't afford a $400 DC Sports DAC?

EBAY.

 

-Michael Sandefer

Car Shows Gone Wild

www.carshowsgonewild.com

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$400 for a warm air intake? all the DAC is is a short ram intake. if you want a cheap, but superior to most setups out there, get 2 cheap 3" short ram intakes off of ebay for $30. then go to home depot and get a 3" rubber pipe connector and a few circle clamps. install one intake. cut the other intake(or 3" mandrel bent pipe, which ever you prefer) to make a cold air extension. and there ya go. a 3" cold air intake that does more than the DC Sports DAC and costs way less as well. watch out for water though if you have your fenderwell out.

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Most people would call that ###### rigging but I am a fan of the method if you don't have the cash for certain things.

 

 

However, think about this, in the winter time CAI's are great but in the summer time if you're trying to draw cool air would you really want an intake 6" away from sweltering hot pavment that's just radiating heat???

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