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wheel studs


jackL0414

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hey folks i'm back again for another instalation! the clicking noise before was happening because there was only two studs holding the wheel on as one stud had snapped off and the other was so worn down the nut wouldn't screw onto it, so i got a part from my mate who ownes a civic scrapyard and took it to a garage where he hammered out the two studs and gave me them as i said i could put them on which i can but i can't get the disc off without an impact gun to un do the two screws holding it on, any suggestions on how to get the disc off without an impact gun? i asked the fella in the garage to take them off but he said I could do it when i got home by hammering it or somethin..... heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeellllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll

lllllllllpppppppppppppppppppppppppp pllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaasssss

sssssssssssssssssssssssseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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what make and model is your car? on my car you have to take the whole hub off to get to a front stud, and then use a hydrolic press to put it back together. don't use a metal hammer you'll prolly crack something

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its a superchipped turbo charged honda civic 1.6 v-tec and its the front left disc i can't get off its held on by two philips head screws, now i was told to take a drill the head off the the screws as they're not necessary then hit the disc with a rubber mallet to loosen up any rust spots that may of set on the disc then the disc should just slide off does this sound like a good idea?

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heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeellllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll

lllllllllpppppppppppppppppppppppppp pllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaasssss

sssssssssssssssssssssssseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!

!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

What the hell? Since when is this place a day care? Learn how to type and speak like an adult.

 

its a superchipped turbo charged honda civic 1.6 v-tec .....

 

Another what the hell? Do you even know what kind of car you own or are you just listing random key words?

 

As for the rotor assembly. You need an impact screwdriver. You can buy one at the auto supply shops for $20 or so. You can also drill the head off, but that is a much less clean route to go since the shaft would still be stuck to the hub.

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Remove wheel, Remove caliper/rotor, remove hub, pound them out from the front, pound new ones in from the back. Have it all repressed and put all back together.

 

You can cut them off and pound them out from the front like your friend said, but you'll never get the new ones in without removing the hub.

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I took the screws out of my old del sol rotors with a big #3 phillips screw driver and a lot of elbow grease.

Hit it with some pb blaster, put the screw driver (not a cheap one that will twist) on the screw and strike the back of it with a hammer. Repeat a couple times and while pressing against it as hard as you can, grasping the screwdriver with both hands, turn. If you have a friend handy and a big enough screw driver, try getting them to help press and turn with you.

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Remove wheel, Remove caliper/rotor, remove hub, pound them out from the front, pound new ones in from the back. Have it all repressed and put all back together.

 

You can cut them off and pound them out from the front like your friend said, but you'll never get the new ones in without removing the hub.

 

Nate, I think he was looking for more specific info on removing the set screws on the rotor itself, not necessarily the lugs.

 

 

I took the screws out of my old del sol rotors with a big #3 phillips screw driver and a lot of elbow grease.

Hit it with some pb blaster, put the screw driver (not a cheap one that will twist) on the screw and strike the back of it with a hammer. Repeat a couple times and while pressing against it as hard as you can, grasping the screwdriver with both hands, turn. If you have a friend handy and a big enough screw driver, try getting them to help press and turn with you.

 

Ooooor, you can spend the $20 on the impact screwdriver and skip the PB and fondling your friends and knock those screws out in 10 seconds with the impact driver and a regular hammer. :thumbsup:

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Nate, I think he was looking for more specific info on removing the set screws on the rotor itself, not necessarily the lugs.

 

 

 

 

Ooooor, you can spend the $20 on the impact screwdriver and skip the PB and fondling your friends and knock those screws out in 10 seconds with the impact driver and a regular hammer.:thumbsup:

 

 

Oh....I misunderstood I guess. I tried the impact screwdriver route. The screws are really soft (aluminum maybe?) and started to strip almost instantly from all the torque. I'd suggest PB Blaster for a couple of days and then get adapters and such that will allow you to use a phillips screw bit on your standard socket wrench. Then have a friend push that socket against the screw as hard as possible while you turn the wrench. They are a pain to get out though...that's for sure. You could always drill them out too. The screws being really soft metal would make them probably drill out pretty easy....especially if you had an impact screwdriver with drill bits in it.

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if you drill the head of a screw out how do you get the rest of it out of the hole when it's rusted into place already?

 

Exactly. If the head is drilled off you can put the rotor on and off just fine. There are no threads on the rotor, all the threads are in the hub. The rotor is just sandwiched in the middle. It is just the shoddy way to do it.

 

Nate, take a dremel to the screws. make yourself a huge slotted head out of the cross head screw and use the slotted bit on the impact driver. Works every time. The angle of the crosshead allows the bit to back out and strips it. The slotted has less angle and doesn't back out on you.

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^^ Precisely.

 

It is no problem to reassemble everything without the screws when you are done. Your wheel and lugs will sandwich the rotor back into place when you put it all back together. After driving it like that for a few weeks the rotor will oxidize and fuse back to the hub so it won't just fall off the next time you pull the wheel off.

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^^ Precisely.

 

It is no problem to reassemble everything without the screws when you are done. Your wheel and lugs will sandwich the rotor back into place when you put it all back together. After driving it like that for a few weeks the rotor will oxidize and fuse back to the hub so it won't just fall off the next time you pull the wheel off.

i kinda figured that's what they were for on my car, but mine came out okay when i had to replace a busted stud so i figured i'd just leave them alone. i know if i was changing a brake pad or something and the rotor just fell off i'd be like oh sh*t what did i just break.

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