4tika4 Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 My crx is lookin a little faded, dull, pink and crusty. I want to get it re-sprayed just a nice basic red, but I dont want to drop 3 to $4,000 for a coat of paint. I want to do it myself, but how will i get the best results? I know i will need a gun and all that crap, Ive seen people paint their cars with rustoleum and a sponge paint roller. They turned out really awesome Has anybody else heard of this method? Its cheap, and it seems easier. and it has good results Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 My crx is lookin a little faded, dull, pink and crusty. I want to get it re-sprayed just a nice basic red, but I dont want to drop 3 to $4,000 for a coat of paint. I want to do it myself, but how will i get the best results? I know i will need a gun and all that crap, Ive seen people paint their cars with rustoleum and a sponge paint roller. They turned out really awesome Has anybody else heard of this method? Its cheap, and it seems easier. and it has good results Have you seen this in person? Looks great in pictures but it doesn't look that great in person from the ones I've seen. Pictures can be VERY deceptive. Also, you should realize that faded red paint can be buffed out to near new condition. Look at my car in my sig.....original paint and it was in nowhere near that shape when I got it. After a few hours of buffing it looks about half it's age. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 pink and crusty dirty...... but anyways i've seen pictures of the rolled on paint and they looked nice. but 1 it was stark white paint so that helped, and 2 the guy wet sanded and polished the hell out of it so it had some shine to it. Edit: here it is, they did it with rustoleum (basically the same single stage paint they used on older cars) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4tika4 Posted February 24, 2009 Author Share Posted February 24, 2009 Have you seen this in person? Looks great in pictures but it doesn't look that great in person from the ones I've seen. Pictures can be VERY deceptive. Also, you should realize that faded red paint can be buffed out to near new condition. Look at my car in my sig.....original paint and it was in nowhere near that shape when I got it. After a few hours of buffing it looks about half it's age. would buffing it help restore the parts that look pink back to red? ive buffed my roof by hand. and i could see red on the cloth i was using, so i think the clear coat is completely gone on the top. i kinda want to paint it because some of the paint is cracking and stuff. it looks nasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 Painting yourself is tough work to get it to look nice. You may be far better off doing all of your own prep work and then taking the car to maaco and get the $250 special. Maaco paint jobs are a joke but should turn out nicer then what you will be able to do in your driveway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slosol Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 just remember, a paint job is only as good as the prepwork underneath it. no joke its alot of work if you want it to look good. not trying to discourage you, but do your research on sanding and bodywork (if it needs it). If I were in your shoes and wasnt knoledgeable in this area, i would research the prepwork of painting a car, and then sand it myself. Then take it to a shop to have it sprayed. Paint and labor wont be nearly as bad as them doing it all. Id say around 80% of the labor goes down before the car goes in the booth. What ever you decide, good luck man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shak3yb0n3z Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 Having done a rattle can job maybe a month ago on my EG before I sold it. I can tell you this. 1. you need ventilation to suck out the dust in the air. 2. get plastic drop cloths to use for temporary walls and for the ground. YOU WILL GET PAINT EVERYWHERE! 3. It took me 13 cans to do 2 coats on the entire car. I started by sanding with a rough grit. something like 220 i believe. I can double check when I go to my garage tomorrow for you. You want to get all the clearcoat off and any imperfections in the paint. After rough sanding and any body work you may have done, you want to wet sand the car VERY WELL!!!!! I'm not gonna say which grit cuz honestly I don't remember, but I can find out for you, or you can do a little research as that's how I figured it out. Wet sand the car well. This is the time you need to put into your car. The better job you do, the better the paint job will come out. If you want to put some extra into the paint job, get some good primer and prime the car and wet sand again. A good primer can also act as a sealer filling sanding marks. Of course before you paint or primer you need to clean the surface with mineral spirits or something similar to get the surface clean. You will need to mask off anything that you don't want painted. use the blue 3M tape as it works best from my own personal experiences. Make sure EVERYTHING is taped off very very well. Paint can get into the tiniest areas. Clean the car again making sure the surface is free from any dust. If you're doing the sanding and painting in the same place, then this is a must! after you're done sanding, roll the car out of the garage. sweep out the garage reallly good! clean the car outside and roll it back in. this would be a good time to put a drop cloth on the ground and roll the car over that. Put up your drop cloths as temporary walls to protect your garage. make some sort of ventilation system where a fan is sucking the air out of your temporary paint booth. this should help keep the dust down. You need good light to see! I used a drop light with a 120watt bulb in my hand as I sprayed to see what i was doing. be creative and get yourself good light. Lets recap.... body work sanded car (rough sand) wet sanded car (fine sand) wet sanded again (finer sand) primed car (optional) wet sanded again (optional) clean off car set up temp. paint booth mask off car clean car again start painting. you want to keep the can about 6-9 inches away. get comfortable with your stroke. I good secret is to start from the bottom of the car and work your way up. This way if you look at the car, you're looking down on it and won't see the imperfections, however if you lay on the ground and look up at the car, you may see area's that you may have missed. start from the bottom and work your way up. do the roof last. after you get the first coat complete, move on to the 2nd coat. a 3rd and 4th coat is optional. the more you put into this paint job, the better it will come out. when you're done painting stand back and check out your work. after about 45 min or so, demask your car. do it now while the paint is still wet so you don't pull off paint stuck to the tape when it's dry. it is best to paint in a warm enviorment, so depending on the temperature of your garage, the paint can take up to 3 days to dry. The more coats of paint you put on the car, the better the paint job will come out. if you get dust in the paint, you can wet sand it out if you have several coats (4 or more) of paint on it. I wouldn't risk wet sanding with anything less the 4 coats (out of a rattle can). if after painting the car while it's still masked if you are satisfied with the way it looks, go ahead and spray a clear coat. if you see alot of dust on the car, you can spray more coats of paint and wet sand most of the dust out. after the 5 days the paint is pretty dry. now would be a good time to polish the paint. do it by hand. this paint is thin and you don't want to rub it all off. after you polish you can wax. Before: After: Click here to see all the pics from beginning to finish On my hatch i just sanded, wet sanded, applied 2 coats and polished. if you put your face about 1 foot from the paint you can see some dust and imperfections, from 3 feet or more away it looks amazing! Everyone that's seen this hatch in person doesn't believe I rattle canned it. Hope this helps you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4tika4 Posted February 27, 2009 Author Share Posted February 27, 2009 thats really creative. and it looks really good. How long do you think that paint would last though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slosol Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 i think the paint would last a while but its not going to take long for it to fade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 i think the paint would last a while but its not going to take long for it to fade should be alright if you take care of it, and it wouldn't be too hard to respray a section Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shak3yb0n3z Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 if you clear coat it, it should last a while. the more you put into it, the better it will look and the longer it will last Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 would buffing it help restore the parts that look pink back to red? ive buffed my roof by hand. and i could see red on the cloth i was using, so i think the clear coat is completely gone on the top. i kinda want to paint it because some of the paint is cracking and stuff. it looks nasty Yes definitely. Your car is single stage paint, that's why you get red on your rag when buffing. If you had a decent buffer, you could shine that car back up in a single saturday to close to new. Being single stage paint is also better.....makes it almost easier to bring back. If your clear coat was gone, then you would see definite peeling in areas of the paint....ever see those cars that have paint peeling on the hood/trunk/roof? That's what happens when you have clearcoat failure. Since you have single stage, you don't have to worry about that.....I'll try to find a post from awhile back of a detail that was beyond pink that was brought back to BETTER than new. Edit: Okay....I found an example (not my detail job). There's a ton of these types of "red revivals" out there but this will get you the point of how far gone single stage can be yet still be restored. This was a car that I corrected a couple weeks ago. The car has been sitting for awhile in addition to getting major mechanical work done. The paint is not perfect (rust bubble) but it sure looks a lot better. These projects are the most enjoyable because the customer is floored and doesn't mind driving the car again. before: After: Word of mouth is amazing...I've detailed four 911's from this customers referrals...another one tonight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shak3yb0n3z Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 damn! that came out good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 damn! that came out good! Yup.....that's what I'm trying to get across....repainting for nothing more than faded single stage paint is a waste. Buffed out factory single stage will look 100 times better than anything you can do for under $500. Plus a good buff job like above would only run you $250-300 (if I did it at least). If the OP lived near me, I'd do a test area to prove my point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 Yup.....that's what I'm trying to get across....repainting for nothing more than faded single stage paint is a waste. Buffed out factory single stage will look 100 times better than anything you can do for under $500. Plus a good buff job like above would only run you $250-300 (if I did it at least). If the OP lived near me, I'd do a test area to prove my point. So, when you coming to Ohio next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4tika4 Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 Yup.....that's what I'm trying to get across....repainting for nothing more than faded single stage paint is a waste. Buffed out factory single stage will look 100 times better than anything you can do for under $500. Plus a good buff job like above would only run you $250-300 (if I did it at least). If the OP lived near me, I'd do a test area to prove my point. That is literally the exact same as what my car is doing, its not as bad though. This seems like a really good idea, but have some dents and a little surface rust and even some cracked paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 So, when you coming to Ohio next? A few years ago I was going once a year but now....not so much. We finally got sick of going out to see family when they never make the effort to come see us. If you are ever down my way though, I'd be glad to clean up your shizz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 A few years ago I was going once a year but now....not so much. We finally got sick of going out to see family when they never make the effort to come see us. If you are ever down my way though, I'd be glad to clean up your shizz. Yea, good luck with that. I don't know how many long trips will be taken with the Talon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 Man that Porsche came out good! I've gotta question for you...One side of my bonnet, and my trunk lid have got kinda faded (wrong term really, colour is fine, its just the shininess on it), and when I try and polish them they just don't come up shining like the rest of the car does (rest of car looks brand new...). I need to try and somehow restore it to what it should be like! I've tried T-Cut (which rubs down the paint and takes a very slight layer off) but still no joy... It's annoying! Pic to show what I'm on about... If you can notice on the right/center of the bonnet, the reflection is pretty perfect, but on the left side its kinda matt looking! Is it original paint on the hood? Has the hood ever been blended? If it's been blended then there's probably not much you can do since it's the paint jobs fault for the mismatch. Other than trying to buff it, I don't know what to say but different compounds work differently. You might have better luck with a chemical compound like Klasse AIO. Did you use a buffer of any kind? If so, what kind. It takes Power to remove dead paint or fading clear so if you did it by hand then there probably wasn't enough force to remove what is causing the problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C92hatchX Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 rocco amzing right up...thats gonna help me today when i finish my paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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