SNooPYjdm Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 I got a 92 honda civic hatchback and i need to replace the tie rods on it both inner and outer and i was wondering how easy or hard they are to replace? well ill take any advice or help i can get done plenty of other work on honda's so im not to much of a noob r anything just never done tie rods...Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 they are quite easy really. you need something like a 17mm socket, ratchet, hammer, ball-joint separator (or whatever method you like to use) and I used a pipe wrench to get the inner off since I didn't have a normal wrench large enough to fit. Took all of about 20 minutes per side and I had never done them before. inner and outer ball joint sets from napa ran around 80-90 total i think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNooPYjdm Posted May 13, 2008 Author Share Posted May 13, 2008 ooo really i didnt think tie rods were that easy lol but thanks for some help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 i said ball join sets but i meant tie-rod sets. but you understood what i meant anyway. yea, they are pretty easy. if you're not sure grab a manual, but they are not a very advanced repair really. generally when you replace tie-rod ends you should have an alignment done afterwards too, unless you take careful measurements before you take it apart, but even then you might get it thrown off enough to need the alignment anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNooPYjdm Posted May 13, 2008 Author Share Posted May 13, 2008 yea ill need one jus dont know if i can get one yet becuz i bought the car with jacked up suspension...n its on cheap lowering springs but no camber so i dont think it can be alighned properly or atleast thats wut ive been told... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 you can buy each tie rod section separately - each of the four as singles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNooPYjdm Posted May 13, 2008 Author Share Posted May 13, 2008 yea i think im going to go pick em up tomarow thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNooPYjdm Posted May 14, 2008 Author Share Posted May 14, 2008 does anyone know a site where they have like a step by step guide to replace tierods and ball joints because ive never attempted this lol thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 I've been meaning to ask this, but what is so wrong with your ball joints that cannot be re-threaded or lubricated? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNooPYjdm Posted May 14, 2008 Author Share Posted May 14, 2008 the ball joints jus come in the package with my tie rods its more my tierods im worried about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 It's just that the tie rods are screw-on/screw-off, then adjust. The ball joints are a totally different ball game ( ). Unless you have special tools or a torch, I don't see how your going to get them out easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNooPYjdm Posted May 15, 2008 Author Share Posted May 15, 2008 ooo alright thanks idk the ball joints just came in the package so i got em haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreshDaily Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 lets see if I can cap this for you. Correct me anyone if I miss something. I dont have the best memory! - take off wheel, then take out carter pin on outer tie rod where the nuts at with some pliers, bust the nut off with a 17mm, then use a good size hammer and hit the part where the stud of the tie rod stabs through on the side. You might have to hit it a few good times and HARD. Make sure not to hit the stud. It should break loose. If not get a get a seperator like x3772 said, it looks like a big u shaped fork. Slide it under the tie rod boot and hit it with a hammer and it should seperate. After you do that, put the 17mm nut back the tie rod and tighten it a lil bit to hold it in so you can bust the nut loose on the outter tie rod from the inner. It should screw off the and onto the inner tie rod. Its a size 22mm if Im not mistaken. Try to remember about how many threads you can count right before you bust the nust loose so you can set the new one with about the same amount of threads showing as the old one did right before you loosened that nut. It'll help when setting your alignment after you got your wheel on. Then uncrew the outter tie rod from the inner and there goes the outter one. Now for the inner take your boot off and use a pipe wrench like x3772 said if you dont have a wrench large enough and unscrew it. Then get your new one screw it back it and tighten it. Put your boot back on and zip tie it if you werent able to save the clips (I wasn't). Then get the new nut and screw it on the inner tie rod first then screw on the outter tie rod. Set it to however many threads you counted earlier on the old one. Stab it back in by the rotor and put the 17mm bolt back on, screw it tight enough to where you can slide the new carter pin through and bend it. You many need a wrench. Use the 22mm and tighten the nut on the inner tie rod. Grab the new carter pin slide it in where the 17mm is. Bend the ends with pliers and your good. Put your wheel back on and look at how much the toe is in or out from the back wheel. You can try and eye it and make it even by adjusting it with a 14mm wrench I think and a 22mm wrench. If you adjust it just loosen that 22mm nut on the tie rod and put the 14mm wrench on the inner tie rod (it should have some slots to where a wrench can fit) and turn it. one way makes the wheel toe go in and the other wat makes it go out. turn wichever way you need it to go and then tighten that 22mm nut on the tie rod. It should help you out some what. When you test drive it and if it pulls to the left then pull the driver side's toe in by adjusting it. Same for the right if it pulls that way adjust the passenger toe to the left or in. You may have to play with it or go get it done on the machine at an alignment shop. i played around with mine and set it pretty good. BUT when my wheels are down on the ground it looks like my toes out a lil too much but when my cars on the lift my wheels look strait and my toe looks perfect.... Damn that was long...i need me a damn break! i probably forgot a thing or two, dont think I did though...Oh well correct me if I did! Hope this helps you out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNooPYjdm Posted May 15, 2008 Author Share Posted May 15, 2008 lol daamn thanks alot that will help out haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 Don't forget, never strike exposed threads! Before you hit anything, hand tighten the nut back on to avoid any mishaps. Clarification: never strike near exposed threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 Easier method then everything listed above: Go to your local autoparts store and buy the manual. It will cost $15 and be the best $15 you have ever spent on your car. Even the cheap chiltons/haynes will do you fine for a repair of this level. It will have pictures, recommended tools and step by step instructions for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNooPYjdm Posted May 15, 2008 Author Share Posted May 15, 2008 yea thats true as well would they sell those over at autozone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreshDaily Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 yea they got them at autozone and they got this other book to called Honda Engine Swaps. It should be a red cover with a dude hoisting an engine with a gold block and trans. mugen/valve cover into a red hatch i think. I bought both just to have as reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNooPYjdm Posted May 15, 2008 Author Share Posted May 15, 2008 yea they got them at autozone and they got this other book to called Honda Engine Swaps. It should be a red cover with a dude hoisting an engine with a gold block and trans. mugen/valve cover into a red hatch i think. I bought both just to have as reference. yea ive been meaning to get that book to lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreshDaily Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 lol crap I bought it soon as I seen it along with the Honda Tuning magazine. That Engine Swap one is pretty informavtive on many many things! GET IT!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNooPYjdm Posted May 15, 2008 Author Share Posted May 15, 2008 haha ill pick it up on my next trip to autozone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNooPYjdm Posted May 27, 2008 Author Share Posted May 27, 2008 alright parts finally came in.....took like a week and a half...so im bout to start this repair tonight or tomarow and am about to pick up that manual tonight any last minute advice...lol thanks for all the previous help aswell..i hope it goes smoothly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lceah Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 yay! hope it all goes fine...snoopy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNooPYjdm Posted May 27, 2008 Author Share Posted May 27, 2008 hahaha thanks so do i Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreshDaily Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 so far so good?? did it come along smooth like butter or ran into some probs?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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