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Removing rear shocks


Showstopper93

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I'm trying to get my rear shocks down to replace the spirings, but it seems that the bottom bolt has seized up in the bushing sleeve, causing it to try an spin the bushing when I try and remove it.

 

Any tips on how to remove this WITHOUT nuking the bushing, or breaking the bolt?

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Common problem. You'll have to cut the bolt and bushing out and have new bushings pressed in. In all, you're looking at about 4-5 hours if you have the right tools. I ran into that problem on my del sol and broke the heads off the bolts. I didn't have the tools to fix it and it cost me over $200.00 to have it fixed.

 

You'd be better off putting new shocks on and new lca's.

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That happened to me too. Fortunately, I was replacing the LCAs with my shocks (under the advance advisement of HungGSR) so I could just take them out as one unit and replace the bolt.

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I used an impact and it never budged. I ended up trying a socket with a long tube for leverage and twisted the head off the bolt. Took it to my mechanic and he ended up twisting the other bolt head off so he had to torch them out. Took him a total of 4 or 5 hours for both sides.

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I've got a little bit of worry about this myself. I'm wanting to get some AGX's for my car but am worried about the bolt being seized up to the bushing. I need to jack the car up and see if I can loosen the bolt before I order them.

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that hung , and coat them in penetrating fluid alot dude , every day give em a spray for however long you have before getting it done. for someone that has a torch hung its no prolem , they can ONLY heat the bolt up. 2 tips anyways. another actually , when reinstalling these bolts , ANTISEIZE THE FUK OUT THEM !!! problem solved for next time , lol.

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I've researched them on team-integra. Koni Yellows would be stiffer. The AGX's on 1 are stock or maybe a little softer, on 2 it's the same as GR-2's (15% stiffer than stock) and then on up from there. If I run them on 2, which most people do on the street, I think they'd still be pretty comfy. Also, as long as I have a moderate spring rate, it shouldn't be too stiff a ride.

 

Cranny- the thing that worries me is whether or not I can get the bolts off at this point to even put anti sieze on them. If I can't loosen the bolt, I'll just get new LCA's with urethane bushings.

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start spraying em now , so they are as turnable as you can get em when time to take them apart. and if you cant get em apart , what else can you do dude , new bad boys. worth putting new ones in anyways , for what your doing you want it tight anyways.

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To be honest, I don't know if spraying them will even help. From what I understand the bolt basically becomes fused (almost like welded) to the bushing and the two pretty much bond together. If this is the case, then no penetrating (just wanted to say that word) fluid will make a difference.

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lol , it will i swear. thats why they call it penetrating fluid , cause it penetrates , lol. stop making me say penetrates dude. lol

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For the street I have them set on 2. They ride alright, of course you are going to be able to tell they have a stiffer damper setting. But having them mated with the Tein S-Techs makes for awesome handling. Set them on 4 for the street (like I did the first day i used them) and you just bounce down the road. But the second setting isnt that bad, all worth it IMO.

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