Gen IV Brakes

[Attaus]

So.. it seems that older Hondas (maybe just Gen IV??) don't have the best brakes out there. I'm glad that they're 4 wheel disc w/ABS, but, they warp like a mother.

 

Does anyone else experience the wheel shaking under sometimes heavy braking? They just don't seem very powerful.. sometimes I feel unsafe.

 

I had to replace the master cylinder a year ago because the brakes quit working when the AC was on. If you sit at a stoplight for too long, the brakes would start slipping.. bad deal.

 

 

Anyway, I wanted to get some new rotors/pads, and I was wondering if anyone had some good info on them.

 

The F/R Brembo rotors seem to be like a good deal, but I don't plan to get those slotted/drilled cheap ass zinc coated ones.

 

I saw a few big brake kits with caliper relocaters which actually look really good. I have to haul my car down from 60, 70, and 80 mph sometimes very quickly for the highway stoplights in Texas (sucks.. not many local freeways), so braking is very important to me.

 

I was just curious if anyone had tried this type of conversion before.

 

Along with the rotors I plan to replace the fluid with Royal Purple and either Axxis (lots of brake dust i've heard) or Hawk. (Anyone ever use ceramic??)

[SolLesHonda]

OEM rotors man... honestly.

[90IntegraC1]

i had to replace my master cylander last year for the same reason as you. Still got OEM rotors, but i got AEM brake pads. Yeah, there is some shaking when braking from 80-100, but it's not that bad.

 

i was told that drilled/slotted rotors added 7 whp b/c of the less surface area created by the slots and holes. wrong?

[InfinitePrelude]

So.. it seems that older Hondas (maybe just Gen IV??) don't have the best brakes out there. I'm glad that they're 4 wheel disc w/ABS, but, they warp like a mother.

 

Does anyone else experience the wheel shaking under sometimes heavy braking? They just don't seem very powerful.. sometimes I feel unsafe.

 

I had to replace the master cylinder a year ago because the brakes quit working when the AC was on. If you sit at a stoplight for too long, the brakes would start slipping.. bad deal.

Anyway, I wanted to get some new rotors/pads, and I was wondering if anyone had some good info on them.

 

The F/R Brembo rotors seem to be like a good deal, but I don't plan to get those slotted/drilled cheap ass zinc coated ones.

 

I saw a few big brake kits with caliper relocaters which actually look really good. I have to haul my car down from 60, 70, and 80 mph sometimes very quickly for the highway stoplights in Texas (sucks.. not many local freeways), so braking is very important to me.

 

I was just curious if anyone had tried this type of conversion before.

 

Along with the rotors I plan to replace the fluid with Royal Purple and either Axxis (lots of brake dust i've heard) or Hawk. (Anyone ever use ceramic??)

brembo's calipers or ceramic disc are some of the best. but lude brakes are real stronge when brand new. i had to stop from 120mph to 0 for a traffic camera. i felt like my insides was being sucked outs. abs causes discs to warp. especially with strong callipers.

[Attaus]

i had to replace my master cylander last year for the same reason as you. Still got OEM rotors, but i got AEM brake pads. Yeah, there is some shaking when braking from 80-100, but it's not that bad.

 

i was told that drilled/slotted rotors added 7 whp b/c of the less surface area created by the slots and holes. wrong?

 

It's possible that you notice a difference in braking difference because of less rotating mass, but.. I've never heard that.

 

Actually, you're advised to upgrade the brakes regardless when you increase the wheel size due to greater rotating mass, especially in SUVs.

 

I don't know if 17" with low profile tires gets much bigger, but.. eh..

 

Well, it's not just the shaking but the fade. After only 10 - 15 mins of good braking, I see a HUGE amount of fade.. in cool temperatures.. I can't imagine what it will be like this summer with 100+ degree air temps.

[Ian300D]

Along with the rotors I plan to replace the fluid with Royal Purple and either Axxis (lots of brake dust i've heard) or Hawk. (Anyone ever use ceramic??)

Definitally replace fluid. I don't know About going all out with Royal Purple, but it can't hurt either. Any quality brake fluid will work, just get one that can take the heat of hard braking better; so that they don't boil. Axxis, Hawk, EBC, these are all good brakes. Any performance brake pad is going to dust more, it's just the name of the game. If you want more friction, and thus stop faster......your going to burn threw more pads, more rotors, spew more brake dust, but have good breaking. Of course I make it sound really hardcore, but it's no big deal. If you want a good setup. Go with quality brake fluid, Brembo blank rotors

 

i had to replace my master cylander last year for the same reason as you. Still got OEM rotors, but i got AEM brake pads. Yeah, there is some shaking when braking from 80-100, but it's not that bad.

 

i was told that drilled/slotted rotors added 7 whp b/c of the less surface area created by the slots and holes. wrong?

If you have shaking when braking from 80-100, it's not always the brake rotors. Warping a rotor is very hard to do with just hard braking. It usually happens when you're just driving to work and hit a puddle. Water will warp a rotor very quick if it is hot. In order to warp a rotor in dry conditions, on a decent rotor/pad combo, would require some serious track sessions. BTW I know we all start somewhere, but you have 900+ posts and just asked if drilled rotors would add 7whp. Do you know how crazy that would be. I bet you couldn't gain 7whp on a Honda if you REMOVED the rotors completely. Oh and drilled rotors are absolutely retarded. If you want the looks though, which i can understand, get good slotted rotors.

 

 

brembo's calipers or ceramic disc are some of the best. but lude brakes are real stronge when brand new. i had to stop from 120mph to 0 for a traffic camera. i felt like my insides was being sucked outs. abs causes discs to warp. especially with strong callipers.

ABS will not cause disc's to warp. And strong calipers will not make a difference in this. And yes Brembo has nice caliper's, but ceramic disc's. Haha, do you know how much a set of those cost. If someone put that on a Prelude they would be crazy. Plus ceramic disc's require so much heat to even begin to grip it's not even funny. Not EVEN street-able.

 

 

It's possible that you notice a difference in braking difference because of less rotating mass, but.. I've never heard that.

 

Actually, you're advised to upgrade the brakes regardless when you increase the wheel size due to greater rotating mass, especially in SUVs.

 

I don't know if 17" with low profile tires gets much bigger, but.. eh..

 

Well, it's not just the shaking but the fade. After only 10 - 15 mins of good braking, I see a HUGE amount of fade.. in cool temperatures.. I can't imagine what it will be like this summer with 100+ degree air temps.

 

This is sorta true. It is recommended you put better (and not necessarily bigger) brakes on a SUV if you plan on getting 22in rims. But then were talking about a huge weight difference. If you put 17in rims on your Prelude, it probably won't KILL your braking unless of course you went with some heavy chrome ones. Now my advice for you on brake fade. I bet you anything changing out your brake fluid, meaning a full flush, with some real high quality brake fluid would just about eliminate this. And probably wouldn't cost you but $20 max. Now if that didn't work, you might want to look to your brake pads, but I bet it's your fluid.

 

Now how about that for a first post.

[skateelements16]

i bow down to you oh first post greatness haha. nah man but mad props on the post... and that 7whp question one of yall had lol.............. my 10 year old brother knew better than that. N e who nice post man.

[Attaus]

Definitally replace fluid. I don't know About going all out with Royal Purple, but it can't hurt either. Any quality brake fluid will work, just get one that can take the heat of hard braking better; so that they don't boil. Axxis, Hawk, EBC, these are all good brakes. Any performance brake pad is going to dust more, it's just the name of the game. If you want more friction, and thus stop faster......your going to burn threw more pads, more rotors, spew more brake dust, but have good breaking. Of course I make it sound really hardcore, but it's no big deal. If you want a good setup. Go with quality brake fluid, Brembo blank rotors

If you have shaking when braking from 80-100, it's not always the brake rotors. Warping a rotor is very hard to do with just hard braking. It usually happens when you're just driving to work and hit a puddle. Water will warp a rotor very quick if it is hot. In order to warp a rotor in dry conditions, on a decent rotor/pad combo, would require some serious track sessions. BTW I know we all start somewhere, but you have 900+ posts and just asked if drilled rotors would add 7whp. Do you know how crazy that would be. I bet you couldn't gain 7whp on a Honda if you REMOVED the rotors completely. Oh and drilled rotors are absolutely retarded. If you want the looks though, which i can understand, get good slotted rotors.

ABS will not cause disc's to warp. And strong calipers will not make a difference in this. And yes Brembo has nice caliper's, but ceramic disc's. Haha, do you know how much a set of those cost. If someone put that on a Prelude they would be crazy. Plus ceramic disc's require so much heat to even begin to grip it's not even funny. Not EVEN street-able.

This is sorta true. It is recommended you put better (and not necessarily bigger) brakes on a SUV if you plan on getting 22in rims. But then were talking about a huge weight difference. If you put 17in rims on your Prelude, it probably won't KILL your braking unless of course you went with some heavy chrome ones. Now my advice for you on brake fade. I bet you anything changing out your brake fluid, meaning a full flush, with some real high quality brake fluid would just about eliminate this. And probably wouldn't cost you but $20 max. Now if that didn't work, you might want to look to your brake pads, but I bet it's your fluid.

 

Now how about that for a first post.

 

Wow, thanks a lot for the help man!

 

Much appreciated.

 

Yeah, I DEF. plan on getting better brake fluid.. the stuff in there now is SH*T! I think that's why my ABS light keeps going off. It's like swamp sludge.

 

Alright.. so I just found a complete big brake kit from Baer for my car.. $800 for EVERYTHING. Calipers, rotors, pads, the works.

 

My car would stop on a dime.. no joke. I just don't know if it would work. First of all, $800 is a lot to shell out for brakes.. but.. I love brakes. I don't know. Besides, 13" rotors would look.. orgasmic.

 

 

As for adding whp, it sounds like a joke.. but it's not. If you get lighter rotors, it's less unsprung weight which = more power.

 

I've heard this too from several brake manufacturers. It doesn't happen often, but it does make a difference.

[Ian300D]

Baer is a great brand. What exactly does $800 get you. Just the front setup or also the rear. And are the rotors one piece or two. Really either way it's a good investment. Just make sure they will clear your rims, eeek. Remember that you can have a set of 18in rims and still not fit 13in rotors if the wheels aren't made with good specs.

[Ian300D]

As for adding whp, it sounds like a joke.. but it's not. If you get lighter rotors, it's less unsprung weight which = more power.

 

I've heard this too from several brake manufacturers. It doesn't happen often, but it does make a difference.

 

This is very much true. If you had a Chevy Camaro Z28 which has massive heavy 12+in rotors that feel as though made from iron and replace them with 13in two piece free floating rotors; you would see a gain of whp. But on a Honda Prelude I doubt you would see much of a difference. I would bet you wouldn't see more than a 1whp difference.:-" By the way when taking advice from people, look who your taking it from. If you get my advice, you get a mechanic's experience along with someone just well read on the subject of performance braking. If you listen to a manufactor of brakes, they make money off you buying their load of BS. I have nothing to gain from steering you in the right direction. They get money.

[skateelements16]

im still bowing down to the ian god of all breaking and mechanical issues haha. Anywho..... good crap love readin it. Also i have met this guy.... and he aint craptin ya about the mechanic crap...... hes one damn good one! w00t

[Attaus]

Baer is a great brand. What exactly does $800 get you. Just the front setup or also the rear. And are the rotors one piece or two. Really either way it's a good investment. Just make sure they will clear your rims, eeek. Remember that you can have a set of 18in rims and still not fit 13in rotors if the wheels aren't made with good specs.

 

http://www.performancecenter.com/products/...ber_BAE4341007/

 

That's the kit. $800 is for absolutely everything.. I almost can't believe it. There's only one problem.. it's for a VTEC model. I'm trying to figure out what I need to modify to get it to fit, but I haven't found any answers yet. Hrrmmm..

 

Oh, yeah.. I would get their little sizing chart and make sure it clears. If it doesn't.. because I might be switching to smaller wheels, I've been thinking about getting some powerslot oem size slotted rotors with pads and fluid, as I mentioned. I want to get slotted because it seems like I might get a slight advantage in gas escape, and it looks better.

 

 

Also-- yeah, I know what you mean. I just checked manufacturers because sometimes random other people can't be trusted.. obviously a mechanic is a different story, but yep.. lol

 

I found it on Stoptech and Baer, so I figured it was pretty reliable.Thanks again for the quick response.. I appreciate it

[Ian300D]

http://www.performancecenter.com/products/...ber_BAE4341007/

 

That's the kit. $800 is for absolutely everything.. I almost can't believe it. There's only one problem.. it's for a VTEC model. I'm trying to figure out what I need to modify to get it to fit, but I haven't found any answers yet. Hrrmmm..

 

From the Website it is labeled as "BAER Front Track Claw Brake System". This is going to be the front calipers, relocation brackets, hoses, fluid, brake pads, and rotors. It will not include the rear brake setup. While not always required, you need to contact Baer to ensure the setup will work with your ABS, while retaining stock rear setup. Because this is not always so, and you DEFINITALLY want to keep ABS. You could prolly contact a local honda dealership and ask for the caliper and hub part numbers for both non-vtec and vtec. If their the same you're cool, if not you might have to buy vtec hubs.

[90IntegraC1]

i wasn't stating that 7 whp thing as a fact. i read it in Sport Compact Car a while back and thought that maybe i had learned something. But if your 10 year-old brother knows more than a published magazine written by experts then he is just the f*cking god of all car knowledge isn't he? chill out bro.

[Ian300D]

i wasn't stating that 7 whp thing as a fact. i read it in Sport Compact Car a while back and thought that maybe i had learned something. But if your 10 year-old brother knows more than a published magazine written by experts then he is just the f*cking god of all car knowledge isn't he? chill out bro.

 

Alright I think we need to chill out on this thread. I for one didn't mean to offend you, but I definitally think Sport Compact Car needs to recrunch some numbers.

[skateelements16]

yea for real i didnt mean to offend anyone but im with ian on that one... they really need to research that better. Hmm maybe my broth is the god of all car stuff.... that would be sweet. alien w00t