1993eghatch Posted December 26, 2010 Share Posted December 26, 2010 not planning on using it for tuning of any kind. my thing is i dont have a multimeter to test my tps or my map sensors. i have narrowed my problem to those sensors. now i kno that on the controller you can see how much the throttle is depressed i was hoping to use this in troubleshooting if it reads like it should then it will be the map sensor. now i dont want to splice into my ecu blindly and i am confused with the fact that my booklet gives me references for a few of the wires but there are more coming from the controller harness. are the extras not used in the install or do they actually connect to somewhere? This is what i have: Red- Ignition power Orange- Ignition power which is ecu side or battery side or are they just sliced in dont matter where Green- Engine RPM Gray- Throttle Black- Ground Brown- Ground again which is ecu and battery side or doesnt matter VAFC Harness(pressure sensor wire) yellow- ecu side white- pressure sensor side VAFC harness(VTEC solenoid signal) purple- ecu side white- solenoid (vehicle side) side VAFC harness(VTM signal) blue- ecu side when it says sensor side does that mean i have to find the wire off of the sensor or does it mean signal comes in the sensor side of the wire throught the controller and out the ecu side of the wire to the ecu kind with no inbetween sorry if i am alittle confusing i am lost and like i said i do not want to go in blindly. any extra consructive information will be greatly appreiciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993eghatch Posted December 26, 2010 Author Share Posted December 26, 2010 i retract my previous statment about extra wires just went back thru the wires and found that all of them are used. i still need to kno about how the connections are done. like which wires go in one wire into the vafc then out the vafc to the ecu. and which are just soldered in. thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993eghatch Posted December 26, 2010 Author Share Posted December 26, 2010 hopefully this will help you help me option a is pretty basic just both spliced in on the wire. option b has the break where one wire goes in the vafc and another goes back to the harness http://i55.tinypic.com/mtt17t.png Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raley Posted December 26, 2010 Share Posted December 26, 2010 For a cheap multimeter, my 2 dollar harbor freight one is better then my 40 buck radioshack. And when it breaks i dont care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolSweetie Posted December 26, 2010 Share Posted December 26, 2010 yah i was going to say you can get a multimeter super cheap and if either of those sensors were bad youd have a CEL and the symptoms would be pretty obvious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993eghatch Posted December 26, 2010 Author Share Posted December 26, 2010 well heres the thing the only CELs that pop are 22 and 41...now i have no clue how vtec could have anything with bogging and i replaced the O2 sensor so i am at a loss. the only time that they have poped on are when it had problems starting. i took my throttle body off and noticed it was a little more than just dirty so i cleaned it in the hopes that it would help. i also cleaned my IAC and my throttle body. my theory is that the sensor(s) my not be bad just yet but still have a voltage problem at certain points. i kno that the TPS is basically a potentiometer and where it makes contact at certain points could be worn out sending improper signal at thoes points. making the motor bog but not enough to set off the CEL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolSweetie Posted December 26, 2010 Share Posted December 26, 2010 what exactly is the car doing? just not starting? and your sure you counted the code right? Have you took off the vtec controller and checked the screen? And if the pressure soleniod is throwing a code check your oil pressure and oil level. It really might be easier to spend <$10 on a cheap multimeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993eghatch Posted December 28, 2010 Author Share Posted December 28, 2010 i havent installed the controller yet...but the motor runs great till the motor is warmed up which is when the sensors take affect. once it reaches that point it begins to bog at partial throttle almost wanting to kill it self if i dont give it some gas. also i am getting only about 15 mpg. there are times that i go to take off and it does a nose dive like when you push the brakes then launch. but once you give full throttle it seems to drive just fine. there was once when the motor wouldnt start and thats was when i got the codes. it then started not too long later. the o2 is less than 50 miles new. there are times that the idle is a little off and slightly bouncy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolSweetie Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 I think you might want to do more research on the codes its throwing http://home.icequake.net/~nemesis/blog/index.php/archives/453 quick google of code 41 shows the poor fuel economy is linked to that code quite often if your map was bad the car would go up to a certain rpm (say 3k?) and act like it was hitting the rev limiter... if the tps was bad it'd be pretty hard to drive.. I know you said its bad now but its REALLY bad if you really want to test the tps just go unplug the tps.. you'll see what I mean.. it should start to run worse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.