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D15b7


ALPINESTAR210

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Hey guys i have a d15b7 in my del sol and im not a big fan of the vtec and i rather have a motor that i rebuilt and has no miles and i no whats in it than someone else that did it and i have no clue what they did to it but im doin the whole car and i need sum help with what to buy for the motor i just built a 351 for a ford f150 but i no a little about the honda but i dont no whats good for it so if you could help me out that would be sweet

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there is a reason the b7 is also known as a beast7.

 

To make anymore power out of that b7 you have 2 options

 

NA or boost

 

NA = Lots of $$$ little gain, more reliable

 

Boost = A little bit of $$, A HUGE gain, a little less reliable

 

You have a very good reason to not want vtec, tuning w/o vtec is alot easier, especially on boost. There are less demands on the oiling system in a non vtec motor making boosting a little more safer. If you really want to keep that b7 (and who wouldnt! parts are CHEAP, replacement motors can be had for 200-300 bucks, etc etc) one of the first places you should hit up is d-series.org. Read their FAQ section regarding NA applications (dont expect over 145-150 on that motor) and their Forced Induction FAQs (200-600whp)

 

I personaly own a b7 that is dynoed at 151whp NA, granted shes bored out to all hell and back, but I also own 2 d16z6's.

 

IMO you will find more love on the D series side then you will on any b h k board, us D guys tend to stick together a little better haha.

 

As far as dropping a B16 in the car your looking at 2k+ to convert everything over, and even still you are going to end up with a motor with 40k+ miles on it. With that 2k you could build a 300+ whp d15b7 or a pair of soild b7's w/ cash left over. (My z6 build is going to cost about 700, and that includes cams, rods, pistons, valves, springs, and another 500 to have the block massaged by a machine shop) and that is with all NEW parts.

 

So keep the D, brush off the DOHC fan boys, and build yourself a BEAST7.

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HEY guys i found this on another forum and its for a D15BEAST and if you built up a B7 i would like to no whats good crap and better i would like to run most skunk2 stuff

 

engine:

rebuilt d15b7

skunk2 exhaust valves

new oem intake valves

a6 valve springs

a6 cam

red aem true time cam gear

arp head studs

y8 head gasket

napa refinished head (milled true, valve guids, valve seals, cleanned it up real good including combustion chambers)

custom 2.25 exhaust w/ no cat and a fart can

z6 intake manifold

spoon oil cap

full tune-up about 5k ago(timing belt,water pump, oil pump, starter, alternator, bunch of sensors, just overhauled it)

garrett gt-17 turbo

hf mani w/ adapter plate

2.5in down pipe

2.5 cold side, 2in hot side ic pipes

blitz blow off valve

godspeed fmic

rc 310 cc injectors

stealthmode oil line kit

tuner toys block fitting

ngk- bkr7e @.027

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To me, building a d15 up is like entering a weight lifting competition with a midget.

 

Yeah after a while you will have one strong midget, but he can only get so strong.

 

You might as well get a 6' guy and do some real work.

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show me a b18 stock that pushes 350 whp

you cant because they dont exist

now a boosted b18... that would be a power house, but once you pass the 400whp mark the car is no longer streetable really, it pretty much becomes a trailer queen for the 1/4 mile. And from the sounds of it the guy is planning on using it as a DD/weekend car, so spending 4k+ to drop a b18 and boost it is pointless when he can rebuild the b7 w/ a vitara/fj rod setup and boost 14-20 all day for 1/4 the cost.

 

Also lets take a look at your list

 

engine:

rebuilt d15b7

skunk2 exhaust valves

new oem intake valves

a6 valve springs X Get some springs that work with a better cam, the a6 cam is great for NA, but for boost you can do much better by looking into a delta or crower regrind

a6 cam X

red aem true time cam gear

arp head studs

y8 head gasket X Use a stamped steel b7 gasket, it will hold pressure better

napa refinished head (milled true, valve guids, valve seals, cleanned it up real good including combustion chambers) X find a good reputable local machine shop, have them print and balance the rotating assemblies, clean up the head and block if needed)

custom 2.25 exhaust w/ no cat and a fart can X high flow cats flow just as well as test pipes, so save yourself a headache and get a universal high flow cat, and a decent muffler

z6 intake manifold

spoon oil cap X no need, just use the stock one, it will work just fine

full tune-up about 5k ago(timing belt,water pump, oil pump, starter, alternator, bunch of sensors, just overhauled it) X before you even drive the car your going to need to get it tuned, find a local speed shop, talk with them, find out what they tune with (neptune, hondata, etc) find out if they sell pre slotted ecus, or if you need to supply your own

garrett gt-17 turbo

hf mani w/ adapter plate

2.5in down pipe

2.5 cold side, 2in hot side ic pipes

blitz blow off valve

godspeed fmic

rc 310 cc injectors

stealthmode oil line kit

tuner toys block fitting

ngk- bkr7e @.027

Your also going to need a few other items, eg: ecu, vac lines, gauges, WG if not internally wastegated, etc.

Also look into doing a vitara/fj or GE setup, they are proven to 400+ and you can get a set of new pistons and rods for about 200 bucks shipped.

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i agree with the d15b7. had one in my sedan with just an aftermarket intake and it ran like a beast. should have killed that motor quite a few times but it kept goin. hell even after we swapped the head and had some problems with a nut being in a cylinder it still was able to get onto a trailer with maybe 2 quarts of oil and a crapton leaking out into the driveway. i raced a guy with a b16 with i/h and kept up with him fairly well. thinkin about building a d15 block with a z6 head next :)

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FJ just announced today that they are going to start selling 75mm and 75.5mm vitaras mated to FJ H beams for the b7. Im seriously thinking of scrapping my z6 and picking up a b7 to boost :)

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1. Tuning w/o vtec on ANY set up is 100X easier (1 map to work with instead of 2)

2. Less oiling demands on a non-vtec motor (makes boosting safer)

3. Less rotating mass on the cams usualy allows for a more stable cam at high rpm (9k+)

4. Less parts means less things to go wrong

5. vtec on a D series is pointless (5 extra hp woo hoo)

 

Id love to see your counter points, and why you think VTEC is the god of every honda motor.

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lets see here

5-10+ whp with vtec

50-350+ whp w/o vtec....

 

I think ill go w/o thank you :)

 

Simply put for FI systems vtec is worthless, especially on a D series motor. Reason being is our motors simply do not have the displacement that would best use VTEC, granted a few ponies here and there help, but its not enough to really matter. This goes for NO2, SI, or turbo. Its a hassle to work around, and you run more of a risk of damaging your motor if you have variable timing. Hence why alot of the guys that run purpose built motors use a6(aka z2) cams, or an aftermarket grind that runs a single cam timing (bisi/delta/crower).

 

also a fanboy is someone who thinks that they are right, and will ride on the nuts of whatever it is they like no matter how retarded their notion is, even if they are shown proof that they are wrong, much like you are doing now, arguging with someone who has built NA and FI D series enginges (z6, y8, y7, and my current favorite my NA b7 that will stomp your VTEC 1.6 w/o hessitation).

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lets see here

5-10+ whp with vtec

50-350+ whp w/o vtec....

 

I think ill go w/o thank you :)

 

Simply put for FI systems vtec is worthless, especially on a D series motor. Reason being is our motors simply do not have the displacement that would best use VTEC, granted a few ponies here and there help, but its not enough to really matter. This goes for NO2, SI, or turbo. Its a hassle to work around, and you run more of a risk of damaging your motor if you have variable timing. Hence why alot of the guys that run purpose built motors use a6(aka z2) cams, or an aftermarket grind that runs a single cam timing (bisi/delta/crower).

 

also a fanboy is someone who thinks that they are right, and will ride on the nuts of whatever it is they like no matter how retarded their notion is, even if they are shown proof that they are wrong, much like you are doing now, arguging with someone who has built NA and FI D series enginges (z6, y8, y7, and my current favorite my NA b7 that will stomp your VTEC 1.6 w/o hessitation).

 

Check it out, bro. I've been watching your posts for a while and I believe you not only to be intelligent, but experienced, knowledgeable and quick to help someone with a question. In another words I think you're one of the cooler guys in this forum. So I'm not looking to argue with you. As usual, you make good points. I am of the mindset that the vtec engine is one of the best engineering feats of our time. That kind of balanced power band out of a 1.6 liter 4 banger to me is downright sexy. I'm not on any bandwagon or trying to be a fanboy. I just think that vtecs are the shizzzzznit.

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