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Complete mystery on Honda engine vibration


MisterDavid

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I've got a 1996 2.2 4cyl vtech. When the gas is gently pushed, like to maintain speed during street driving, there is a vibration in the engine. It feels like one of the cylinders is not firing properly. When you push further down on the gas, the vibration works out and the engine runs fine. In idle there is also no vibration.

 

Plugs are new and gaped correctly. Wires are new, distributor cap is new. PCV valve is new. EGR valve was removed and cleaned.

 

I'm running out of options. Its either a vacuum leak somewhere, a blocked injector or I'm not getting compression.

 

Anyone have other suggestions?

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get seafoam.. follow directions to run it in your gas and your intake system

 

 

and are you sure its in your engine

 

 

 

could be a bad mount/mounts

 

or a bubble in your tire or alignment or tire balance or even air pressure or some other suspension issue

Edited by DelSolSweetie
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get seafoam.. follow directions to run it in your gas and your intake system

 

 

and are you sure its in your engine

 

 

 

could be a bad mount/mounts

 

or a bubble in your tire or alignment or tire balance or even air pressure or some other suspension issue

 

 

I'm 99 % positive its not the tires or suspension. Mainly because its a consistent issue regardless of speed. The vibration is the same if I'm doing 20 or 70. If I apply a little pressure to gas I feel it, if I push a little more, the vibration disappears.

 

I know the rear motor mount is starting to go bad, but I only feel that when I'm at idle. But, everyone knows where THAT mount is, and I'm not going to attempt that one on my own. Of course, I also know there is an Engine Mount Control module on the firewall that may be causing issues with that mount...but again, that mount is only a problem at idle.

 

So hit me with something else :)

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Yeah, pull the code. And in the future try the following...

 

I've got a 1996 2.2 4cyl vtech. When the gas is gently pushed, like to maintain speed during street driving, there is a vibration in the engine. It feels like one of the cylinders is not firing properly. When you push further down on the gas, the vibration works out and the engine runs fine. In idle there is also no vibration.

 

Plugs are new and gaped correctly. Wires are new, distributor cap is new. PCV valve is new. EGR valve was removed and cleaned.

 

I'm running out of options. Its either a vacuum leak somewhere, a blocked injector or I'm not getting compression.

 

Anyone have other suggestions?

 

Oh, and BTW, I have a CEL on.

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if u have a check engine light why the hell have you not just checked what code it is throwing

 

Because I HAVE checked the codes. I don't remember which number it was since I had it done at autozone two weeks ago. One of the cylinders was misfiring. That is WHY I changed out the plugs, wires and cap. Problem went away for about 3 days. And now I'm back to square one, asking all the pros out there for a second opinion.

 

Come on guys, give me just a little credit here. :)

Edited by MisterDavid
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Check you plugs again. Inpsecting the firing surface should shed some light on what is going on in the combustion chamber.

 

I checked the surfaces when I made sure the gaps were right. All the plugs are wearing evenly. They are all brand new too, so the wear is very light on all them so it may be a little soon to tell.

 

Del Sol, Timing is good.

 

I think I'm going to check the ignition coil tonight.

 

On a side note. 1) I bought Seafoam. 2) I checked my engine mounts again and a bolt on one had vibrated lose, sticking out about 2inches from the chassis. Dunno how I missed it. Tightened it back up and the idle vibration disappeared (like I figured it would). However, it didn't eliminate the main problem. Did make it slightly less noticable though...

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...They are all brand new too, so the wear is very light on all them so it may be a little soon to tell....

 

You aren't looking for normal wear, you are looking for something out of the ordinary. Something out of the ordinary should show up quickly.

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On a side note. 1) I bought Seafoam. 2) I checked my engine mounts again and a bolt on one had vibrated lose, sticking out about 2inches from the chassis. Dunno how I missed it. Tightened it back up and the idle vibration disappeared (like I figured it would). However, it didn't eliminate the main problem. Did make it slightly less noticable though...

 

I rock.. I Know

 

 

 

i was going to say do a compression check but if your not getting blow by and it went away for days idk

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I rock.. I Know

 

 

 

i was going to say do a compression check but if your not getting blow by and it went away for days idk

 

Ok, So I recoded the car. Says the EGR valve is clogged...which is REALLY annoying considering I pulled and cleaned it last week trying to find the problem. If I have to replace it, its gonna suck. Too damn expensive.

 

I also tested the ignition coil. Manual says the resistance on the primary is supposed to be .4-.6ohms. I got a .7 Think I ought to go ahead and replace it?

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I see this topic is about a month old, but I figured I'd add my two cents

 

I have a 96 accord as well, but it's the non-vtec type. A few months ago, I pulled engine codes for cylinders 1,2, and 4 misfiring. I tested my ignition coil, which is external, and found a resistence of 1.6. I thought I'd found my problem, but the ignition coil I bought from the store had the same resistance. Apparently, resistance can be fickle, and I don't know if I'd rely on it alone. Either way, though, when I took the old coil out, it had a huge crack in the side, so it needed to be replaced anyway. When I drove it around, the cel was off and there was no misfiring. Of course, it died on me later in the test drive, but that's because of other stuff I had to fix (EGR valve for one things). I didn't actually remove the codes, and I thought the computer was supposed to see the car without problems for a few trips at similar conditions, but it still goes to say something when my scan tool picked up zero codes after I changed the coil

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...I didn't actually remove the codes, and I thought the computer was supposed to see the car without problems for a few trips at similar conditions, but it still goes to say something when my scan tool picked up zero codes after I changed the coil

 

 

And such is the beauty of OBD-2 (constant scanning) versus OBD-1 (scan and store)

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It sounds like you might be experiencing the old 1,800 rpm buzz issue (Honda had a service bulletin on this many years ago). See if it is happening between 1,800 and 2,000 rpm under light load (say going up a slight hill around 35 to 40 mph while lightly pressing the accelerator for one example). If so replace the exhaust doughnuts gaskets and spring bolts on both sides of the short A pipe between the cat and the header. This issue is most noticable in manual transmission vehicles but it is still common in the autos and is specific to this type of exhaust system. I hope this is the issue because it is an easy fix.

I find that I have to replace mine about every 80k to 100k (mine is a manual).

 

Sorry for posting to such an old thread...

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  • 1 month later...

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