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s_frost last won the day on April 16 2010

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About s_frost

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    96 accord lx, 4 cylinder, auto
  1. thanks for the replies. sorry it's taken me so long to get back. @Turtlehead the dust shield is something I checked when I was under there. it seemed not to be touching anywhere, and I even tried to push it back a little bit just in case. glad to hear someone think the bearings unlikely. not a job I want to tackle yet @Xeryon hmm, could be. They seemed to be in good enough shape, but I know they are kind of cracked. true to it, I've noticed a creak more recently when starting out slow. and the other sounds don't perfectly reflect what might be expected from a turning wheel. and spe
  2. First of all, I'd like to say I'm sorry for posting a 'suspension noise' topic. I know these can get annoying fast. 96 accord auto non-abs. almost 200k miles. Recently changed the upper control arms and regreased the brake shims to avoid brake sqeal. a few weeks later, I'm getting an intermittent, rubbery "wump....wump,wump,wump" from the front passenger wheel (put a moog control arm on that side, I did). nothing on turns, nothing at high speeds. mostly slow-speed straight driving. more recently, it has acquired more of a scratching sound, and I can hear it at higher speeds, but still
  3. s_frost

    92 Wagon

    haha. just don't forget it's a 92 wagon. someone on honda-tech did some slick modifications on a 94 wagon for the humor of ramping out a grocery getter, but it's really a luxury endeavor. if you're doing any engine swap for a model that doesn't normally come with your car you will almost always need new engine mounts. and new struts? what, to support a heavier engine load? don't forget that if you're trying to add speed to the car, it's a good idea to add stopping power to the brakes but upgrading your calipers. that's more expense and time.
  4. if it has always pulled to the side, that sounds like body damage. even if your grandma didn't drive the car much, she might have hit a curb or slid into one on ice or something. bad ball joints might do that, too, but they would give you worse problems over three years. however, most roads tend to slope down just a little bit on the right side, so it depends on how hard of a pull you're talking about. could be the bearings. after I did the hor rotor replacement, I started getting the early signs of a bad left bearing on certain sharp, slow turns. I, too, always thought a bad bearing made
  5. well, nobody replied to this topic, but I thought I'd give an update in case it's valuable to anybody else. inner tie rod replacement turned out just fine, despite some fooling around with the lockwasher and the boot clamps. a few spares of those certainly wouldn't hurt somebody attempting this for the first time, as was the case for me. also, the boots on my car were fine, but for some it is best to buy those, too. alignment worked just fine. I set the jackstands about 6 inches from the hubs (with the covers ON, very important - the axle cap thing on the rear is further out than the a
  6. For the past while, I've noticed an incredibly annoying little pop or clunk from the front suspension, mostly the driver's side, but I couldn't figure out what it was. I'd replaced the outer tie rods, all four struts, all upper control arms, rotors and brake pads in the past year, and had the lower ball joints done a few years ago. I knew the bushings were worn and tend to creak in cold weather, but the pops happen at slow speeds and little turns and fast brakes, but I couldn't figure it out. today I got under the car while my dad pushed on the wheel and sure enough found that there was a good
  7. if you paid for a diagnostic, they should have actually diagnosed what needs to be fixed. maybe the mechanics in my area are just really good, but they always give an answer, and haven't been wrong yet. my suspicion is the alternator. if you bought the car with a dead battery, that may be why. a bad alternator will drain the battery if it is not charging it properly, and a poorly charged battery is likely not to send enough power to the starter to crank the engine. this could be the constant between the previous owner and you that 1) explains why the previous owner's battery went bad and 2
  8. oil in the spark plug wells is a common problem on the fifth generation accords. changing the valve cover and the tube seals will solve most of this problem, but there are lower tube seals under the rocker assembly that can contribute to this as well (a certain fel-pro set I believe has all three, the cover gasket, the lower tube seals, and the upper tube seals). that being said, unless your wires or your plugs are so badly corroded or aged that current no longer travels properly through them, oil in the wells in itself will not prevent the car from starting. you'll want to check up the electr
  9. this might be a lame suggestion, and I don't mean it to be insulting, but are you sure you have the wires in the correct order around the distributor? (heck, I used to think cylinder 4 was cylinder 1). that's just the first thing that came to mind. also, why were you changing the distributor cap? regular maintenance? any problems on the inside? did the rotor look fine? I don't know what to tell you on the engine codes, but if the problem occured right after you changed a part, I'd look closely into what you did. some things do happen by coincidence, and a 1994 is pretty old. sorry I ca
  10. Xeyron touched on the heart of the subject- don't flush the transmission. Maybe this is what you've been hearing not to do. Changing the transmisison fluid is fine and is fairly easy, almost the same as changing the oil. I don't know the fluid capacity of the 2004 accords, but my 96 takes 2.5 quarts which translates into $30 for three 1quart bottles of the official honda fluid plus a new washer for the transmission drain plug. I don't even know why transmission flushes exist. some car manufacturers specifically tell you not to flush the transmission. the good thing about simply replacing t
  11. 1. yeah, I may look into that. that coil was dang expensive, but I don't like it being damaged on the outside. checking the resistence would I guess be best to do first. I forgot to mention too that it's been without a third metal washer for some time, and I don't know if that causes a grounding issue or not. when I did all this the other day I put in one of my spare coil washers from the junkyard. it might just be good to play it safe and get the 4-cylinder tc-19a instead (that was the actual designation. I forgot it, but was close). 2. I didn't notice any signs of scoring, although there
  12. Hi, again. So today I treated my car to some denso iridiums (the ik-20s) and some NGK he62 wires, all to replace the BS I got screwed into paying someone to install two or three years ago, though I myself have tampered around with things since then. when I was pulling off the coil wire, a bunch of black dust fell out. I poured it out of the wire onto a papertowel, then removed the coil and cleared it out of there, too. at first I thought the entire metal piece had corroded but it turned out the wire had slid pretty far out of the boot, and how in the heck electricity had been going through it
  13. update: it's not the inner tie rods. I had my dad move the tires left and right, and it turns out both tires move when you move one side. I thought, "Okay, so it's related to the rack," then I saw that there was a little movement around the connection between the rack and the steering column. So i decided to shake the steering wheel in park and the tires moved a little bit then. in fact, when I had my dad shake the tires while I was at the wheel, I saw the wheel move that little bit and in fact that is where that weird sound is coming from. When I held the steering wheel tight, he couldn't
  14. Sounds good. That sounds really good, too. I'd never heard of that before! If I had something like that I could spread these suspension projects out. This is the rack and pinion boot or "bellows" as I've seen it called, which goes over the inner tie rod and clamps to the rack and pinion. The old ones might be fine, but part of me wants to put new ones on if I'm going to be down there. I'll have to think about it. a lifetime alignment package might convince me not to bother, if I check and they seem fine. again, thanks for the comments. I'll get to work on this next paycheck
  15. thanks for the input. ugh. that's disappointing. I guess I can maybe try to put new struts in while I'm at it so I only have to pay for one alignment for it all. would you suggest changing the bellows boots at the same time? oem is cheaper ($15) than aftermarket ($20) but don't come with the clamp (frickin' $15 each oem). do you think zipties would work for that? that's what the aftermarkets basically come with...
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