jboncars Posted August 15, 2009 Posted August 15, 2009 replaced master cylinder and thoroughly bled brakes. Pedal is still dropping 80% to the floor and brakes lock up. Is there anything else to try?
mpearce1974 Posted August 16, 2009 Posted August 16, 2009 replaced master cylinder and thoroughly bled brakes. Pedal is still dropping 80% to the floor and brakes lock up. Is there anything else to try? It would be pretty obvious but I have to say it, bad bleeder valve? Also just because its new does not mean it was not bad, although the possibility is pretty slim. Are you bleeding the pass rear first then drivers side rear, then pass front, then drivers side front? Its fairly critical that it is done in that order.
airjordan223 Posted August 16, 2009 Posted August 16, 2009 yeah you got some air in your tubes. bleed them again and make sure you do it in the proper order
jboncars Posted August 16, 2009 Author Posted August 16, 2009 replaced master cylinder and thoroughly bled brakes. Pedal is still dropping 80% to the floor and brakes lock up. Is there anything else to try? I bled the brakes again with a good friend who is a mechanic and it's not the bleeding.
jboncars Posted August 16, 2009 Author Posted August 16, 2009 This may sound stupid. I know the power brake booster gives us power brakes but is there anyway that a bad booster could over confinsate on the push down? Running out of ideas if anybody has a thought please reply.
DelSolSweetie Posted August 16, 2009 Posted August 16, 2009 if the brake booster was bad you wouldnt have any pedal.. it would be like pushing on a rock.. wouldnt move are you brakes GOOD.. like lines/calipers/rotors/pads etc... mainly lines.. oh and i went through 3 master cylinders on my old truck before i finally bought one from somewhere else and it worked
xxhrdcr4lifexx Posted August 16, 2009 Posted August 16, 2009 ya dude just kuz its new doesn't mean its going to be good, i've boughtn brand new alt's. and brand new slave cylinders and were bad, so ya man either you didn't bleed them the correct and proper way, like stated above there is an order you do it in. just bkuz you think you have all the air out doesnt mean its going to be all out... you do pump your peddle while the bleeder is closed and then you hold your peddle down while he opens the bleeder right? after its stiff let the bleeder open, repeat a couple 5-10 times.
hiemsnox Posted August 16, 2009 Posted August 16, 2009 so i actually heard about this a couple weeks ago, your brakes lines could be expanding when your brake, so no matter how well the brakes are bled and even if there is no air in the lines, it will aways feels squishy if the lines are expanding
airjordan223 Posted August 16, 2009 Posted August 16, 2009 ^ yeah that happens with the rubber ones thats why people get stainless steel to prevent the expansion, but it wouldnt cause the pedal to drop 80%. its more of a response thing
DelSolSweetie Posted August 16, 2009 Posted August 16, 2009 yah i just got a steel line for my clutch.. wouldn't mind doing the brakes but i dont have time right now if you wanted to really make sure your lines were not the problem (including a leak in them) replace them with steel braided lines okay i thought they would be more expensive: http://cgi.ebay.ca/93-HONDA-DEL-SOL-SI-VTE...9QQcmdZViewItem non ebay are like 90+ stoptech are only $75.00
jboncars Posted August 16, 2009 Author Posted August 16, 2009 ^ yeah that happens with the rubber ones thats why people get stainless steel to prevent the expansion, but it wouldnt cause the pedal to drop 80%. its more of a response thing you are 100% correct I could not get the rear hoses today but did the front ones and have a much better response. Gonna do the rears next weekend thanks alot for your help
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