chrisz232 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Okay so heres the deal. i got a 91 acura integra. stock everything basically. whats not stock isnt the prob kinda stuff. but anyways here whats its doing. at start up off cold start it runs hard not good hard like a cam kinda hard. and it sounds like an STI like a running on 3 cylinders kinda thing. but its not. once the cold start valve kicks out it starts to run at 50 yeah i said 50 rpm's. and if i dont take it above atleast 3K rpm's it misfires really bad and has no accleration or power. and it is only making power in 1st and 2nd gear. normal power maybe a lil less. but the main prob is its running EXTREMELY rich cant figrue it out. i did new plugs, new cap and rotor, to the distributor off and cleaned it and put a new ring on it. if any questions just ask. need help gotta get her back on the road! WEVE ALL BEEN THERE!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Any CELs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisz232 Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 ur gonna have to help me out with that acronym. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Check engine light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lceah Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 fix your rpm's with the idle screw...just twist it so that ur idle rpm is like 500-700ish... let us know what happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisz232 Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 yea the check engine light is on. it was throwin an o2 sensor code but its good with an ohm meter. so its straight. but if i tweak the idle control valve it still wants to idle down. off cold start. we have checked half the damn valves on the intake mani but cant find the prob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisz232 Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 yea the check engine lights on. it is throwing a o2 sensor code. but its not the o2 we hooked the ohm meter up to it and it ran like it was supposed to every way possible. when i play with the idle control valve it still trys to idle down after i come to a dead stop from driving around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 So let me recap: Your car doesn't run right and it has a CEL telling you the O2 sensor is bad. I think the answer to your question is in the statement above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lceah Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 ^I agree the way I can think of to make sure: if you erase the code and after a while of driving, it throws the same CEL, then it's the O2 sensor most probably... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 Ignore the 2 posts above me.....they don't know what they're talking about. I'd recommend you go replace the O2 sensor, then report back here with an update. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisz232 Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 so ur telling just replace the o2 sensor... i mean if an ohm meter reads it right y would it say that but not operate like its supposed to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 so ur telling just replace the o2 sensor... i mean if an ohm meter reads it right y would it say that but not operate like its supposed to? Maybe it's gotten too dirty from all the carbon?? If the ecu thinks it's bad, then you're not going to get passed it until you put a good one in. The only other option would be a bad ecu and I can't think of any circumstance where I've heard of a bad *unmodified* ecu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 An o2 for your car is cheap too. Refrain from pulling your hair out and replace the $30 part, disconnect the battery for a few minutes to let the ecu reset and you should be all set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisz232 Posted January 15, 2009 Author Share Posted January 15, 2009 okay ill look into that this weekend. i should have enough money to get one. yea thier cheap as hell. i think the universal ones r like 18 and for my car only is about 25-30 so it aint too bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kegger Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 You're ohms can read good all day long, but it doesn't mean that it is reading right. Just replace it and you'll be better off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisz232 Posted January 16, 2009 Author Share Posted January 16, 2009 i was talking to my buddy today whos a mechanic and he said it might be my ignition system. so let me know what yall think abou that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 i was talking to my buddy today whos a mechanic and he said it might be my ignition system. so let me know what yall think abou that. I think you should replace the O2 sensor, reset the ECU, and drive it for a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisz232 Posted January 16, 2009 Author Share Posted January 16, 2009 okay well ill do that then a o2 is alot cheaper then a new ignition system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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