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I hit another snag in the swap


alex37211

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Okay, so I got an obd1 ecu and my car is rollin. But I am yet to wire up the vtec or iab's.

 

Does anyone have a link to any diagrams or write ups for this? I have no experience with this type of sh!t.

I have a diagram of where the wires go in the ecu, but I need to find out which wires specifically and where they are located. I'll probably just run them straight through the firewall directly to the ecu so I don't have to mess with splicing into the harness.

 

thnx.

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heres what your gonna do.

 

go to hardware store , get about 25 feet of wire. some electrical tape and a T-tap.

 

theres a black box under the intake manny , closer to drivers side. theres a place to plug a 2 wire round plug into it on the drivers side of intake manny. your gonna need 3 of these plugs.

 

1) one wire that goes to this plug is gonna go to power , almost every sensor in the car will have a yellow/black wire going to it. in our case were gonna use the IACV , located on intake manny. get yourself a T-tap for tapping into wires and leaving a lead. T-tap into the yellow/black wire going to the IACV. than run the lead to 1 wire of the 2 wire plug before mentioned to the black box plug. dont matter which one you use. polarity not a factor. the other wire going to the 2 wire plug , your gonna run through the firewall to passenger footwell by ecu. make sure you leave enough to make it clean and nothing being tugged on. leave that for now , but label what wire this is for , IAB.

 

2) im gonna assume you know where the VTEC control for the engine is. right in front of dizzy on the head. should have a place for a 2 wire plug like you already wired into the IAB box , and a place for a 1 wire plug , the vtec solenoid valve. if you cant find a plug for this as the are more rare on the car , cut the plug off and wire it direct without one , it doesnt matter.

 

run a piece of wire from the 1 wire plug , vtec solenoid valve , through the firewall the same place as the IAB wire , and into passenger footwel , label it , VTS.

 

the 2 wire plug next to the 1 wire is the vtec pressure switch. one wire comming off this plug , your gonna run right to a ground. any ground , close and short as possible. a bolt on the engine will do. the other wire coming from the 2 wire plug , your gonna run through the firewall like the other 2 into the passenger footwell. label it VPS.

 

3) now , on the back of the engine , closer to the drivers side , right in between the water pipe that runs along back of engine , and the intake manny. you should see the knock sensor. it ALSO has a 2 wire plug , although only one wire is used. you use the wire same side as the latch of the plug. top well say. run that wire , from top wire of the 2 wire pug , throug firewall like the rest. label it KS.

 

 

now all that is done. your gona need ECU pins for OBD1 with a lead of wire comming off it. i have ecu plugs laying around steady , which is what i use. junkyard , a buddy , find some , lol. theres also 2 different kinds of pins , take note which you need. big or small.

 

 

now for pinouts , looking at the back of the plug , where wires enter them or opposite of what plugs into ecu , they count from left to right , and up and down. so top left is A01 , than bottom left is A02 , than 2nd from top left is A03 , etc. left plug is A. middle , small plug is B. right plug is D. there should be empty spots in the spots you need.

 

A04 - VTS

A17 - IAB

D03 - KS

D06 - VPS

 

take your ecu pins with a length of wire comming off. unplug the A plug from ecu , the 2 sides running lengthwise pulldown , youl see. once you have the plug opened , push your ecu pins with wire into the spots needed in the A plug , make sure they lock in , make sure you put them in right way. have a look , take you time youl see what i mean. look at others for reference. do the same with the D plug in 2 spots. once you have this done , twist the wires in thier respective spots you ran into footwell and labeled , make sure its all tight and taped and sealed off good. solder them is best. tape the wires you ran to the wire harness of the car so they cant be pulled on so on. make it clean.

 

 

once all the wiring is done , go under the hood fise box , pull the BACKUP fuse for 30 seconds , put it back in. start car and VTAC!!! lol.

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Well when me and my friend did an H22 swap his came with the whole wiring harness including the attached ecu. but I am aparrently the only one who thought about that. When I also did a b18c5 swap with another civic it was the exact same thing. their harnesses came with the whole engine harness, including the part that goes into the cabin with the ecu still plugged into it.

 

But whatever floats your boats :thumbsup:

 

I just figured that was easier because all we had to do to get the wiring done was connect like 3 cables and it fired up first time. no conversion harnesses or having to wire up sensors or any of that headache.

 

 

My saying is why work hard when you can work smart :D

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ohhh myyyyy. some people are something else i tell you.

 

even if he used the harness that came with the engine , the harness doesnt enter the cabin frosted. integras and obd1 civics have tower plugs , not isolated engine harness's like OBD2 civics. so even if you used the GSR wire harness , youd still have to wire what ive specified in , as the civics harness from the shock towers(where the GSR harness plugs in) to the cabin would NOT HAVE THESE WIRES. DO YOU FUKING UNDERSTAND DUDE? DO I NEED TO DRAW IN CRAYON?

 

 

therefore , the only way is to cut and use the plugs off the gsr harness , and wire them in seperate. takes 30 minutes.

 

 

 

Well when me and my friend did an H22 swap his came with the whole wiring harness including the attached ecu. but I am aparrently the only one who thought about that. When I also did a b18c5 swap with another civic it was the exact same thing. their harnesses came with the whole engine harness, including the part that goes into the cabin with the ecu still plugged into it.

 

please stop talking , your only confusing people from learning.

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Thanks a bunch cranny! That was so detailed, I won't even need pics or diagrams. I guess I'll go ahead and get to it this evening if I can. Btw, this is obd2 b18c1 with original gsr engine harness in a 94 dx civic running an obd1 gsr ecu. Just to be crystal; I don't wanna leave anything out.

 

 

 

+1 on the "should be stickied" :thumbsup:

 

 

edit: also, +1 on frostedflake is confusing

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apparently you are as much as a f*cking idiot as I thought :thumbsup: . your not grasping what im trying to tell you. i know all about the tower plugs and the obd differences. what im trying to tell you is that the swap harnesses that I have installed have the FULL wiring harness!!!! including the tower plugs and all of the wiring that goes into the car. it made it just a simple plug and play even with an obd2 type r motor.

 

A bit of advice, I may not spend my entire life on the computer trying to tell people how they should do crap I just try to offer some advice when I have a chance. So why dont you take that into concideration before calling somebody stupid your fickin douche bag. :thumbsup: you are not the all knowing honda expert if you couldent figure that out, my friend who dosnt even know how to change his own oil got the frackin concept the first time.

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Are u saying the entire chassis harness came with it? That would be more hassle than it's worth, plugging up the dash, and air bags, and the radio and speakers and headlights and tail lights, and dome light, and EVERYTHING!

 

This is what I picture when you say it went in through the firewall because after the shock tower is the chassis harness.

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yes thats what im saying. but you dont have to hook up all of that other stuff because it dosn't need the ecu hence engine computer unit. the airbag system has its own airbag computer. ant the lights dont need the ecu either. you plug the right side tower plugs into the harness after you pull out the old ecu and ecu wiring into the engine bay. then you put the obd2 wiring harness in there and hook up the ecu to it. the you hook up two cables to the fuse box and crank it up. thats what I did with the h22 and the b18c5. theirfore no cutting and splicing or trying to figure out what sensor needs to be re wired or any of that headache crap.

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i hope you guys are listening to this guy and learning not too in the future , lol. like holy jesus. lets take the dash out , strip the whole fuking car shall we , all for the sake of 4 wires we need. NO , i got a better idea , lets run 2 harnesses in the car , only use what we need , and have a MONSTROUS gangle of wires fukin everywhere.

 

 

like i said , please stop talking , cause before you were told , now your straight up PWNED. have a nice day.

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Thanks a bunch cranny! That was so detailed, I won't even need pics or diagrams. I guess I'll go ahead and get to it this evening if I can. Btw, this is obd2 b18c1 with original gsr engine harness in a 94 dx civic running an obd1 gsr ecu. Just to be crystal; I don't wanna leave anything out.

 

 

 

+1 on the "should be stickied" :thumbsup:

 

 

edit: also, +1 on frostedflake is confusing

 

 

cut the plugs you need off the GSR harness , and save it for future or throw it away.

 

take a picture of the GSR harness off the engine and laid out , ill show you exactly the plugs you need.

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wow! what a frackin idiot. you really, i mean really still dont get it. its nice to see people that do nothing but give people that need a simple solution to their problem and you have stupid nolife pricks like you telling them the stupidest way to rig their wiring so it confuses everyone. so as far as you the advise was not intended for you, it was for alex and he seemed to start to understand what I was saying.

 

Just for the sake of I will explain it in idiot terms for you. NO you don't have to take the dash out or any of the wiring for the gauges or anything else but the ecu harness which is about three feet long and is easily pulled out of the firewall. just unplug the ecu and pull the harness out through the firewall and unplug the plugs on the top of the strut tower and undo two wires on the fuse box. once that is out you slide the gsr ecu harness in there the reverse of how you took out the other one. you plug the gsr harness into the three plugs ontop of the driverside strut tower because you dont have to take out that side, it will work with your civic chassis fine. If you still don't get the point than there is no helping you so just go kill yourself and it will make the world a better place. :thumbsup:

 

If anyone but cranny is offended by this please note that this is not aimed at them, just this idiot who likes to make people try to look stupid and do more work thatn they need to.

 

Please cranny if you have anything negative to say back just say it out loud and not in this thread because im really sick of what you are saying. If you don't say anything negative, than I won't eather.Truths??

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I just completed the wiring. I used cranny's instructions. *thank you cranny.

 

I understand what you were saying now frosted but I didn't have that wiring harness. I didn't want to use the obd2 ecu anyways. OBD1 ftw.

 

I test drove it today and....wow. I'm happy. VTEC kicked in yo.

 

This thread = /close. No longer need it. But hopefully some one else in the future may run across it when they need help. :thumbsup:

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next time you guys get a chance , try removing the harness of a 94-01 integra , or 92-95 civic , from the shock towers to inside the cabin. let me know how it works out for ya. lol.

 

glad your up and running buddy , good job.

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