Ben. Posted March 14, 2008 Author Share Posted March 14, 2008 Yea Dan's maxbore TB owned him. It was way too big for an N/A setup. 70mm should only be used on high horsepower F/I setups. HIIIIIIIGH horsepower. I guess I'll just make my modifications in stride and surprise you guys. How 'bout that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_agu28 Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 Dunno. People around here and down south want WAY too f*cking much for a GSR swap. I was considering an H but I'm still iffy about the internals on those motors. how do you think i feel, Pices are hella high around here. I luckly found a hook-up with a bunch of stuff in his garage. and I got the h22, You want my block? or more like his block, pistons, heads, hell the whole shabang. (i like that word) well it is disassemblied so if you wanted to change some stuff you could, but I mean he just needs to get rid of some space in his garage. he has some b engines too He might have a gsr engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben. Posted March 14, 2008 Author Share Posted March 14, 2008 I'm sure I can find a b16 head somewhere on the cheap. No biggie. Still lookin' for advice on internals from someone like Cranny or SSR. Anyone else with some know how would be muchly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatch92 Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 I guess I'll just make my modifications in stride and surprise you guys. How 'bout that? don't be a weiner, weiner. you gotta keep us updated. some of us claim to have ADD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 RM cams/vt + RM headwork + OEM GSR IM fab'd to fit + SMSP header + tuned length intake + 11'ish CR (don't use CTR's) = ~180whp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IVhorsemenmotorsports Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 Ls/Vtec Rebuild the block. Get some .020 over p30 pistons from the b16a2. $200 with rings and pins (skirts coated already) Balance the whole assembly. You can use the original rod bolts on the ls rods if they aren't stretched or get arp bolts and get a stretched gauge to torque them correctly. Get a vtec oil pump and water pump. That should do it for the block. The head- get like stage 2 port job (bowl work and gasket match) Get some stage 2 cams from either skunk2, comp cams, crane, toda, or blox. Get the valvetrain also. I usually get the cams and springs and retainers for like $750. Get a skunk2, blox, or type r intake manifold with atleast a 68mm TB. Get some 440cc injectors and hondata or chrome. If the budget allows get a hytech header or a smsp header. Cheapest would be the 4-1 dc sport header but not as good as the others. If you used a b16 head your compression should be around 11.5:1. A little high for 91 octane but can tune it to work. 11:1 compression is usually the limit for pump gas. This setup I have built numerous times and have seen numbers from 205-230whp depending on combination Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delsol209 Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 good stuff^^ the only thing ive seen with that info is about the arp rod bolts, so to my knowledge you want to use arp rod bolts due to the fact that you are going to be reving high and need the extra precautionary measures to be safe when in high rpm ranges, but also check out the jun cams they are also good but pricey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatch92 Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 arp studs don't stretch as much as stock bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delsol209 Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 + 1 for hatch92 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_big_dl86 Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 im buildin an lsv right now and if ur on a budget GO BOOST!little stuff adds up and i gaurantee by the time ur done u will have spent way more on the ls/v then just boosting.i wish i would have listened to my friends and just boosted but no. i had to be rebelious and individual and go n/a.as for internals,if u still wana do it.pretty much everything can be oem.waterpump oil pump,new rings and yes arp rod bolts r a must!rods r the first thing to screw u on these motors.honda head gaskets r my choice but there r other good ones.and standard sized p30s will give u an awesome n/a setup if ur block is in good shape.ur def. gonna want to get it tanked and honed before u start assembly and the machine shop can check ur bore.if u have as many miles as u say u could have some tapering in the cylinder walls and have to be bored.so wait and do this before u buy pistons!and ctrs will work but ur comp ratio will be well over 12:1.more power but u will need better fuel.horseman says u cant go more then 11:1 thats bs.u can hit alsmost 13:1 without any ping on 91 oct.my last lsv was running 11.7:1 on 91 all day with no detonation and no tune.all u need is an afc or something and ull be good.to make over 200whp is no easy task though.u will def need a comp ratio of 11.5:1 or better.stage2 cams with springs and retainers,and a good tune.plus all ur normal bolt ons.always go with the 4-2-1 header on ur honda they will make more power.some itbs will help u to and u can make them urself for around 300$.tuning will be more difficult but it is well worth it.the lsv im buildin now will be much more potent then my last but i still shoulda boosted.ls r stong motors and can handle boost if tuned right and u spray a lil meth.ive seen 305whp in my buddys ls on 14 lbs with stock internals.small turbo to (16g).or u can stay n/a ls and make good power to.cams and a tune will do alot for u.o yeah and sleeving or balancing the rotating assembly is not nessacery on an lsv n/a.u dont need to balance ur stuff unless u plan on revving in excess of 9grand wich wouldnt be smart neway.if u got ne questions let me know.i have some parts for sale that could help u to so hit me up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delsol209 Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 i would recomend balanceing the rotating assembly regardless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_big_dl86 Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 ok.well if it makes u feel safer go ahead.its your engine.and yes i guess with high mileage it wouldnt hurt.my block only has 6000 mi on it though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delsol209 Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 yea cause thats the whole thing that really tend to give lsv's a bad rep is cause some people cut corners and dont do the nececarry precautions like arp rod bolts, balancing, new bearings, things of that sort that can cause a failure in the setup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 Stock LS rod bolts = D16 rod bolts. Do NOT use them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delsol209 Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 ^yup, and that becomes, or i mean a weak point Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben. Posted March 14, 2008 Author Share Posted March 14, 2008 I wasn't intending on using anything stock as far as rod bolts or head studs go. Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delsol209 Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 so ur going fully built lsv? have you found any rods, or pistons? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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