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my B16A issues


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Great forum you guys got here :thumbsup:

 

I got an Sir2 (EG6) with B16A JDM engine, right hand drive and everything. Its been in the family for years and we havnt done any real mods to it.

 

Im thinking of making it my project car but its done 170K miles on the clock. It still runs like a beast, but its recently started to blow grey smoke out the back.

 

Before i can decide whether to spend money on it, would it be wise to get the engine reconditioned?? That way they can tell me whether the engine still has miles left in it, right?? Do any of you, especially the UK members, know roughly how much this would cost? Also, if im getting my engine reconditioned, what engine mods should i do.. i dont know too much about this stuff, but how much improvement would i get if i get put in performance valves?

 

And do any of you know what the grey smoke is all about??

 

Also, im guessing the manifold connects the piston outlets to the exhaust right?? But i keep coming across 'inlet manifold'..is that the same thing, or the complete opposite?? In terms of manifolds, what do you recommend as i keep seeing different types like 2-1 or some crap like that..

 

Finally, what do the different mod stages/conversions mean.. i looked for a thread on this but couldnt find any...apologies if its already been done.

 

 

Thanks guys..ill try to get some pics up when i can :teehee:

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Intake (inlet) manifold is located on the topside of the head, it's large and silver and your factory airbox connects to it .

 

Exhaust (outlet) manifold is located on the bottom of the head nearest the radiator. Should obviously have four pipes coming off of it and merging together beneath the car.

 

A question for the smoke. Does it occur under regular driving conditions or when your rpms are low, or when you're wide open throttle on the top end of your powerband?

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Well, it first happened after my battery went completely flat..i tried roll starting it and didnt work. so i jump started it, and eventually it worked. From that incident it started blowing smoke out the back and i only drove it the 2 minutes it took for me to get home..

 

i was driving it normally in case something bad was wrong with it, so i only saw it in low revs.. certainly didnt throttle it.

 

havnt driven it since.

 

Also, are there performance inlet manifolds, or is it just the induction kit that makes a difference to the airflow to the engine??

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Well, it first happened after my battery went completely flat..i tried roll starting it and didnt work. so i jump started it, and eventually it worked. From that incident it started blowing smoke out the back and i only drove it the 2 minutes it took for me to get home..

 

i was driving it normally in case something bad was wrong with it, so i only saw it in low revs.. certainly didnt throttle it.

 

havnt driven it since.

 

Also, are there performance inlet manifolds, or is it just the induction kit that makes a difference to the airflow to the engine??

 

You've got me stumped with the smoke.

 

But as for the intake manifolds..there are TONS of them for sale. Used, new.

 

You can go to www.google.com and look up intake manifolds for a b16a motor. There are quite a few brands out there. A couple I'd recommend would be Skunk2, AEBS, Edelbrock and a few more that haven't come to me yet.

Edited by busted ls1
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thanks man

 

as for the exhaust manifolds, does it matter what the diameter is, i keep seeing 2.5", 3" etc.. is it better to get wider??

wider is better to a point, if its too wide then you will lose back pressure and it wont help. 3" is usually used when you have a turbo, so 2.5 would be better for your setup

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i think grey smoke if fuel or fuel related. if you tried to "pop" start it or push start it, unle3ss there was power to the car then thats the only way it would let fuel into the car. My other thought on this would be if the catalytic conveter (spelling) was plugged. I say that because my old interpid did the same thing when it was plugged. It starts as a grey smoke and migrates to a black smopke the worse it gets.

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its most likely because of the jump start as my engine was lingering for a long time between being flat and running, you know, when it just shudders for ages (the battery was reeeeeeally flat).. but would it be safe to run my engine until the grey smoke clears?

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I don't see why it wouldn't be. It seems like you're just running a little rich from having tried to start it so long without success.

 

Maybe you should do a bit of an italian tune-up on it, haha.

Edited by TS John
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Yeah...smokes all cleared, runs like a beast still..

 

Rather than setting up a new thread, i thought i should just ask here..

 

Apparantly my B16A comes with 10.4:1 compression ratio as stock.. i did some searching and i found piston ring kits for lower CR's, like 8.5:1.. but whats the advantage of having lower CR..surely the greater CR the more combustion you get, right??

 

If i replaced my stock pistons with 11.5:1 CR pistons, what power gains am i looking at??

 

Thanks

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with cams , will wake it up quite a bit. without cams , will still work better , but not as good gains. you should have it chipped and basemapped to run 11.5:1. you should.

 

so youre saying i should aim for higher CR than the one iv already got? that makes sense, but why are low CR kits sold then??

 

Sorry if im being a complete noob, but dont all engines have cams??

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so youre saying i should aim for higher CR than the one iv already got? that makes sense, but why are low CR kits sold then??

 

Sorry if im being a complete noob, but dont all engines have cams??

Higher compression is better if you are NA(naturally aspirated; no turbo) and

lower compression (generally not less than 8.5:1) for turbos, at least as far as performance is concerned

 

As far as cams yes engines have cams, or for sohc one cam, what cranny meant was with a set of performance cams and the 11.5:1 CR pistons will make your engine wake up with some power.

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You guys have been really helpful, nice one

 

So if i were to get performance air-flow throughout; conduction kit, inlet, all the way through to catback etc. with say 11.5:1 CR pistons, what power gains am i looking at?

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There are different stages to show the level of performance. Like stage 1, stage 2, stage 3.

 

You might hear stage 1 clutch or stage 3 clutch...for example, for some clutch:

 

Stage 1 offers a steel backing woven organic lining for improved performance and longevity.

Stage 2 offers segmented chatter-free Kevlar disc for improved performance, better heat dissipation, and longevity.

Stage 3 offers a 3 piece sprung hub cooper ceramic race disc; giving a SHARP but smooth engagement and light pedal feel.

 

 

straight through to catback is a good one...more air more power, but get tuned! depending on design and tune, 10-30 hp give or take...

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your question is not stupid...this site is here for questions...

 

by tuning I mean adjusting air/fuel ratios and such...this will help your engine perform at its best!

 

you can add parts and you will get more power, but if you tune, you will get even more power!

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