Xeryon Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 Hi guys, its been awhile since I have posted. I've been damn busy lately. I did a little searching for the below problem, but I couldn't put my finger on how best to describe it for searching. Anyway, the wifes car has a problem that I am a little confused on. It is a 98 accord sedan and when I make a right turn that involves turning the steering wheel more then 1/4 turn there is a notable grinding sound in the front left. The brakes look good, and they are still strong with no signs of being low and no pulling when I hit them hard. There is and has been no fading. Any ideas where to start? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VitalSpeed_CRX Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 My brother had this problem before it ended up being some plastic in side the tire panel. Everything in place? I was reading somewhere it could also be your power steering if it even has power steering. just my .02 cents Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted May 9, 2007 Author Share Posted May 9, 2007 Everything is in good assembly. No hanging plastic or anything visibly broken. Yea it has power steering. Possible, but unlikely that is the cause as it only does it at an exact reproducible circumstance and only one the one side when turning right. The sound is exactly the sound you would here from a wear-indicator on a brake pad, a heavy metallic grinding noise, yet the pads look to be in good condition. And the sound only occurs when you turn right, not when I hit the brakes. The sound does not diminish or change when the brakes are depressed or released. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JapaneseDomesticMarketGSR Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 wheel bearings or axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrorocketeer Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 if it grinds when the weight transfers its prolly a wheel bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 wouldnt sound that bad all the sudden , it would have come on progressively if it was a wheel bearing. im going with axle on this one , has to be if brakes are ok , for a heavy metal on metal grinding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted May 9, 2007 Author Share Posted May 9, 2007 I thought of that on the wheel bearing: Its not so much from weight transfer I would guess either. It makes the sound from a start if you idle slowly around a turn. A maneuver which (seems to me) would cause very minimal weight transfer. Same exact response if I brake hard and cut a corner very sharply and cause a huge weight transfer. Now that I think about it, this was quick that it started making the noise and it wasn't really progressive. Although, it is becoming more pronounced now that it has started to occur. Thanks for the input so far guys. I've never had one go bad on me in all the cars I have owned, so it never occurred to me that an axle might be what the problem was. The car does have 170k on it now, so anything shouldn't surprise me. If that is indeed what it is, an axle. What time frame do I have to repair before it truly becomes a danger for further damage? I'll order the part today, but I want to make sure that it's safe to drive the car in the meantime. JapaneseDomesticMarketGSR: I love your avatar btw. Yet another edit: Are the bearing assemblies for this car a sealed hub assembly? Or is it something I have to assemble and pack the bearings myself? I can't see anywhere that says which it is and all the pictures I have found are usually marked "not representitive of actual product" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 front bearings need to be pressed in , back comes as a unit which also sort of gets pressed on , but you can do the backs yourself if its like a civic or teg id have to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted May 10, 2007 Author Share Posted May 10, 2007 meh, i guess I'll have to take it in then. At least the bearings for this car are pretty cheap, unlike some of the bigger gm vehicles I have had to replace bearings on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted May 14, 2007 Author Share Posted May 14, 2007 bump and update: I decided to take a crack at this myself, and this crap is really stuck on there. I have to remove the caliper assembly to remove the hub and I just don't have enough ass with my 1/2 drive ratchet to break it loose, and I don't have air tools atm. Tomorrow morning I will pick up an 18" breaker to see if I can get it with that, and I have been applying penetrating lube to the bolts throughout the morning, but have not had any change so far. Anyone think of anything I am missing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 are you talking about that huge bolt in the center of the hub? i just found the beefiest wrench that fit on that nut i could get, then put a 4 foot steal pole over the end as a breaker bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 3/4 inch drive ratchet and socket with 4 foot bar. thats what i use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted May 15, 2007 Author Share Posted May 15, 2007 Not the hub nut, thats another problem. I'm talking the two bolts that hold the caliper assembly on. I can't seem to crack those two, and because of the location there is little room to put a bigger bar on it. I'm getting the 24" tomorrow morning, we'll see if that does the trick. If not I have a few other things around here to try Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 if youre doing passenger side , cut wheel hard right. opposite for drivers side. gives you room to use 1/2 inch drive ratchet if it fits in there , or wrench with a bigger wrench for leverage. do you know how to double wrench? good for tight bolts in tight spots where you cant get a ratchet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted May 15, 2007 Author Share Posted May 15, 2007 driver side, and with the wheel hard over to the left gives me just enough room to get behind there. You'll need to explain double wrenching to me. I likely know what it is, just never heard it called that before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 on mine i put that wheel on jack stands and had the bar sticking out the front of the car. then i squated down and pretty much lifted the bar up as hard as i could. that gym membership sure comes in handy :thumbup: make sure you don't lift the car up off the jack stand though, although i have no idea how much the front of a 6th gen weighs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted May 15, 2007 Author Share Posted May 15, 2007 we'll see what she can do. the f22 or whatever it is weighs a ton, but i was already rocking it in the stands with just the little 3/8 ratchet i had. this could be fun.... i'll be sure to post pics if i crash it. :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 oh yeah forgot that you had an accord. i forgot what its called but you got a friend with one of those drills that rattles like hell. impact wrench i think its called? have you tried pb blaster yet? i used it on a rusty bold on my exhaust. i tried everything on that bolt including laying on my back and kicking the wrench, all i ended up doing was hurting my foot. sprayed on an assload of pb blaster on the bolt and let it sit for about 1/2 hour and the bolt just popped right off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted May 15, 2007 Author Share Posted May 15, 2007 well, i just broke the 24" bar on the hub nut, and i didn't even use an extension on it, just my own hands. &^#*@@! cheap Craftsman junk, at least they should replace it for free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 your gonna need a 3/4 inch drive ratchet dude and power bar. leave the car on the ground while cracking them , you get more torque to the bolt. double wrenching , put the closed end of a 17mm wrench on the caliper mount bolt if thats what your still trying to get off , and than using a bigger wrench , put the closed loop of the bigger wrench in between the fork of the first wrench on the bolt. the boxed/closed end of a wrench slightly curves on an angle. well that curve points to where you want the bolt to turn when your putting it in between the fork of the other wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted May 15, 2007 Author Share Posted May 15, 2007 i wasn't anticipating it to break. I'm not a big burly guy, and it was only a 24" bar. I was quite surprised. The wife needed the car rolling again, so I ended up taking it to a small shop in a nearby town. The mech was great and he let me watch him and showed me different things to do and not to do. With an impact wrench he had the whole thing apart, rusted bolts and all in under 20 mins, After getting the bearings pressed in and out again it took him a whole 10 mins to put it back together. Now that I have see it, I will have the confidence to be able to do it alone next time....that and seeing which tools are optimal to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 you have the tools to press the bearings back in? they told me they needed a special hydrolic press when i brought my car in, ended up spending $200 to change a damn lug bolt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted May 16, 2007 Author Share Posted May 16, 2007 Local napa shop does the work for $25 plus tax. Only trouble is they take all damn day to do it. Everyone in the county takes it there cause its the only machine shop within 30 miles with a press. Ended up costing me $120 total, but after seeing it done I will be able to have that accord back apart in 30 minutes provided I have an impact gun. A little pricey, but in this case it was a good lesson learned. Thats what someone should open, a learning mech shop. You break your car and take it there and they have you do it/show you how to do the repairs. Could even charge more for it too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 A little pricey, but in this case it was a good lesson learned. Thats what someone should open, a learning mech shop. You break your car and take it there and they have you do it/show you how to do the repairs. Could even charge more for it too. you should trade mark that and open ur own shop. i'd pay the extra money to learn how to do that. only problem is its not an infinite demand, once you teach them how to fix their car, they they wont need to come back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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