Col Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 I mentioned a while ago that there was a kind of creaking or knocking noise coming from my front end. It's especially noticeable in the cold when first starting up. It doesn't seem connected to steering, but more to pulling away or stopping in reverse. There does seem to be a bit of movement in direction when moving (like it will move a little to the left or right a little, similar to road camber effect). I am thinking that it could be the lower ball joints, which I may have been a recall item in the past. However, there doesn't seem to be any movement in anything when pull at the front wheels, and no sign of steering fluid leaking. Any ideas? If it is the lower ball joint, what does it take to replace it? My local spares shop say they are C$30 each side for parts, but the Honda dealership tell me that the whole lower assembly needs to be replaced for C$410 each side +labour. Which one is correct? Is this an easy job on the '98 base? Cheers, Col. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted January 1, 2007 Share Posted January 1, 2007 For starters you'll need a ball joint press both to install the new ones, and remove the old ones. With the right tools, any job can be easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 no press needed. seperate lower(tapping on side of LCA over and over with a hammer , it will pop). use ring clip pliers to spread and remove C clip from lower. beat it out with a hammer , they come out pretty good for the most part. clean the hole , tap new one in , fire new C clip on , making sure its fully seated in groove. fire it back on LCA with new locknut , and codder pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col Posted January 2, 2007 Author Share Posted January 2, 2007 no press needed. seperate lower(tapping on side of LCA over and over with a hammer , it will pop). use ring clip pliers to spread and remove C clip from lower. beat it out with a hammer , they come out pretty good for the most part. clean the hole , tap new one in , fire new C clip on , making sure its fully seated in groove. fire it back on LCA with new locknut , and codder pin. Cheers Cranny. I am guessing that this means it's totally unnecessary to replace the whole lower assembly? If it's not the lower ball joints, what else might be worn? (other than the steering rack, that's the last thing I want to have to replace!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 just push down on the fenders by the front wheels. if your hear squeaking , its a 95% chance its either upper or lower balljoints. uppers are easy to change as well. balljoints get dry of grease , than start squeaking. the lower balljoints are just the balljoint. its not like the uppers , the uppers you have to replace the whole upper control arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xalexjx@yahoo.com Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 the uppers wear faster, , i would jack the car up and try pushing and pullint on the tire at 11 and 2 oclock i have a set of bn lower ball joints in the package. (it was for a 95 civic), not sure if it will fit, 45$ + shipping for both, my email is the660noicemaker@yahoo.com email me there for pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 just push down on the fenders by the front wheels. if your hear squeaking , its a 95% chance its either upper or lower balljoints. uppers are easy to change as well. balljoints get dry of grease , than start squeaking. the lower balljoints are just the balljoint. its not like the uppers , the uppers you have to replace the whole upper control arm. I have now tried some pushing, pulling and trying to find squeaks, but it behaves when I do. With a smirk on it's face no doubt. I have heard a suggestion that it could be a loose brake pad, and I have noticed that the noise is mostly present when pulling away. The car is also pulling on braking. Seeing as the pads will need replacing before summer anyway, I might as well start there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 seized caliper maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col Posted January 4, 2007 Author Share Posted January 4, 2007 seized caliper maybe. Okay, it's the upper control arm bush. Is it correct that the whole assembly needs replacing? That's the C$410 per side part without labour :( It has been WD40'd for now to reduce the noise, but will need attention soon. Is there anything else I can do? What do I risk by not replacing it immediately? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Replace the whole arm. You'll be glad you did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EH6TunerDaniel Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Dont pay $410 a side for a new UCA, that would be retarded. Go with aftermarket, it will be way cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 410? man you can get them here for 110 bucks a side brand new. whole upper control arm with new balljoint. not hard to put in either col. i can show you how to change them too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 410? man you can get them here for 110 bucks a side brand new. whole upper control arm with new balljoint. not hard to put in either col. i can show you how to change them too. Maybe it was a mistake going to a dealer-owned subsidery - they said that they could only get the whole assembly, even using after-market parts. Perhaps I should try Parts Source or a local spares shop. Is there anything else I should change at the same time, for example is it necessary to change the lower ball joints at the same time? I have never trusted myself with car mechanics if they are not simple - what tools would I need to change the UCAs, and what are the main problems I am likely to encounter? I think I am going to have to do this one myself, the car is eating too many $s at the moment. I was hoping I would have more luck buying a Honda, but let's hope that the car stays sweet once I have it running properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xalexjx@yahoo.com Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 small pair of pliers to bull the lock key out, 14mm wrench, 18 or 19 mm wrench, small hammer, and a socket to remove you lug nuts, if you need step by step instructions pm me, they can be changed in about 30mins to an hour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubs Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 Ummm just so you know there was a major recall on the 98 prelude ball joints, I have a friend who works at Honda and they have this special thing that you just put in the year and model and it will tell you all of the recalls. I had them run my vin and mine were replace in 1999 because I also have a 1998, just take your car to Honda and ask them to run your vin and see if they were ever fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col Posted January 6, 2007 Author Share Posted January 6, 2007 Ummm just so you know there was a major recall on the 98 prelude ball joints, I have a friend who works at Honda and they have this special thing that you just put in the year and model and it will tell you all of the recalls. I had them run my vin and mine were replace in 1999 because I also have a 1998, just take your car to Honda and ask them to run your vin and see if they were ever fixed. To have them fixed for free would be nice... cheers for the info, I will certainly check this out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col Posted January 8, 2007 Author Share Posted January 8, 2007 Okay, each UCA isn't C$410, they are C$230ish from Honda. The LCA are the expensive ones. I asked my local garage (not Honda) to double check that the UCA is the problem so they gave the car a few more prods and pokes this morning. They now think that the UCAs are fine and there's an insignificant amount of play in one of the lower ball joints that they cannot notice when driving. So what is making the noise I can hear and feel? The mechanic had a look and decided that it might need a new link kit. He had a couple of collegues check as well, they agree that this is the most likely cause of the problem. However, he knows that I am short of funds right now and cannot guarantee that this C$300 job will solve the problem. He does however say that if the links break the only thing affected is steering stability. All I know is that the noise is getting worse, and I am afraid to have the suspension collapse because I have missed something important. Should I go ahead and have them replace the links? I would have no hesitation if I knew that this was 100% the problem, but the thought of still having to buy L/UCAs after somewhat irks me. Cranny - I am having trouble locating lower ball joints without the LCA. Are you sure that they are available? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 the lower balljoint on the rear of ludes is set in the spindle itself. the lower control arm has no balljoint in it. the balljoint has a threaded stud , the balljoint being in the spindle , the stud goes through the LCA , and castle nut on the bottom. the UCA are the ones that you need the whole arm. the rear of ludes , unlike civics and tegs , has an UCA just like the front. there is also a rear stabilizing arm , that has a balljoint set in it as one piece , bolts to spindle in the rear like a tierod. if this is the part your talking about? and they want 230 a piece? all i can say is wow , lol. theres nothing to them. straight arm made of roundbar with a balljoint on one end. what a jip. call aftermarket car parts places for that dude. prolly get them for half that. all that being said , the lower control arm does have 2 LCA bushings in it. the one closest to the spindle is for the wishbone bolt that holds strut to LCA. the one closest to the middle is for the trailing arm. the lower balljoints themselves should be seperate dude , from any arm. stablizer arm your talking about , not lower control arm. well i guess you could call it like the lower control arm 2 , or A or B , lol. and link kits are cheap and if yours are beat , they do make quite a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col Posted January 9, 2007 Author Share Posted January 9, 2007 Okay, I'll have the links changed tomorrow. I know that they look easy to fix, but so far I have caused more damage than what I have saved by attempting my own mechanics (because of a freak hood accident :rant: ). Hopefully the ball joints are okay and I not have to spend any more before summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col Posted January 10, 2007 Author Share Posted January 10, 2007 and link kits are cheap and if yours are beat , they do make quite a difference. The links have been done but the noise is still there. Is it really that hard for both Honda mechanics and my local general mechanics to find out? I don't mind taking a car in and having someone say, "Ooh, it's xxx and that's gonna cost you $yyy", but it is really annoying me that Honda can't see anything wrong and the other guy is like "I hear it but I can't see what is causing it". Maybe they want me to replace everything :rant: I guess it's gonna be cheapest part first from now - I'll see if I can get lower ball joints, then I guess the next step is the Upper control arm because the ball joints are sealed in it. What else could it be other than ball joints? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col Posted January 10, 2007 Author Share Posted January 10, 2007 Cranny... I cannot find the front lower ball joints without the whole lower arm, and I cannot find the lower arm at much less than C$180 per side after-market. Are you sure that they are available? It's a '98 Prelude - I know that I can find the lower ball joints for the SH, but mine is a base model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 11, 2007 Share Posted January 11, 2007 ill tell you what , go to www.hondahookup.com , register and download the manual for your car , youl need adobe. see for yourself. as far as i know , theres no difference visually between SH and base. the radius rods in the front are different thats it. like i said , in the front , the balljoints come apart seperate. meaning you should be able to buy them alone , no arm. they are set into the spindle. the rear , has 2 lower control arms , not one. the main one has a balljoint that comes out of the spindle(like the front exactly) , seperate. therefore should be able to be purchased without an arm. the second lower control arm in the back , the B arm , has a balljoint in it that cannot be seperated from the arm. therefore the arm must be purchased with the balljoint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.