CleanGSR

Just follow the steps and you shouldn't screw anything up. I've done it dozens of times and never had any problems.

lol. I suppose you could substitute the bag as long as you don't substitute the duct tape for scotch tape.

Well, as requested I'll do a short run through of how I clean my engine bay.

1. Get the engine warm (not hot). If the engine's cold then let it idle for about 4 -5 minutes.

2. Get a plastic walmart bag and put it around the distributor. Use ducttape to get a decent seal with the bag. Some also suggest taping off the battery terminals, but I'm just careful not to spray them. You'll also want to use a bag and ducttape on the air filter unless you have a CAI like I do.

3. Turn off the car and craby an engine degreaser of your choice. (I use CD2). Spray somehwat liberally on all areas of your engine bay and work on hitting all the hard to reach hoses. Be careful not to get it on any of the paint on the fenders, hood, or bumper. This stuff is also a de-waxer. Leave it set for about 15 minutes.

4. While the degreaser is sitting grab a brush and work on the really bad areas like the block etc....

5. Rinse the engine with running water (not a pressure washer). When you're done rinsing, remove the plastic and tape and inspect to maker sure no water is on those areas.

6. Start your car and let the heat assist with drying. After about 5 minutes, grab a couple of towels and start hand drying every area that you can reach.

*Tip* for hard to reach areas, get a toilet brush and wrap a terry cloth around it and ducttape it to the handle. This will let you reach the hoses you can't reach with your hand.

7. Grab an engine detailer or even an interior detailer to dress the hoses. Do not use armor all. The silicones in armor all will dry out rubber hoses and cause them to crack over time (Same goes with using the stuff on your interior). So, make sure you use a detailer that doesn't contain silicones. I believe Meguiars interior stuff is a good choice.

8. Wax all painted areas under the hood with your sealant or wax of choice. I highly suggest using a sealant over a wax. The high heat from the engine will cause the oils in wax to evaporate much more quickly and you won't have as much protection for as long. Sealants can withstand the heat better without breaking down. Don't forget to re-wax any areas that got overspray from the degreaser like the fenders, etc..

You should only have to do this once a year if even that often, assuming that you keep the engine clean. Everytime I wash my car, I pop the hood, grab a microfiber and dry off/wipe down all the areas under the hood so they look as clean as the outside. It only takes me an extra 5 minutes, and really keeps the engine bay looking in top shape.

Seller/Company: Autosportz.com

Complaint by: HungGSR

Complaint: My dad and I ordered some body kit pieces for his S2000 in June, 2005. We were told the parts were on backorder and expected in no later than a month away. After 3 months of waiting, we finally got them to send out the parts. When the parts arrived they were pretty badly damaged (chunks of fiberglass missing here and there) so we obviously refused to accept the items. After another 2 months of dealing with the company we were told we wouldn't get new items shipped until they settled with the trucking company which could take up to 2 years. After another few months of getting the runaround they started telling us that the items were on backorder indefinately but that they had one rear bumper. They sent that out and we recieved it in halfway decent condition. As far as the rest of the stuff ordered, they said they didn't know when they would get them in. Finally in June, 2006 they agreed to give us a set of 16" Rota's in place of the unreceived items. This was still a loss to us, but not as bad as receiving nothing for the $600+ they still owed us.

Cliff Notes: Ordered parts from autosportz.com. Received them damaged after 3 months of waiting. autosportz.com refused to send new items for up to 2 years. After 1 year of getting the runaround, we got 1 back bumper and a set of Rota's for about a grand.

I = Intelligent. Adjusts the cam timing as well as valve timing I believe.

May be a stupid question but can you get a shutterbox without getting hondata? That would be kind of cool to have, but hondata is definately overkill for my current application.

I was also asking if the fact that the car is rev matching makes a difference in the qm times. Not counting the fact that you can shift faster, does the rev matching part make a difference?

That's pretty cool. So you can shift a lot faster with it? Does the actual rev matching have on your qm times?

So basically the same thing as a rev limiter for launching but does it while the car's shifting too? Does a normal rev limiter for launching do that too (while you're shifting) or is it setup different?

Slightly off topic, but since you mentioned it in your post (good post btw) I'll ask it here. Could you explain the whole hondata wide open throttle shifting. I know it sounds self explanatory but I'm having a hard time grasping how it actually works, what hondata actually does when you keep it floored between shifts. Explanation would be great.

That will look sick. I remember seeing one on ebay about 5 years ago with a 98+ integra front end with the type r lip. The thing looked like it came that way it was done so clean.

You should put your car back in your sig, just size it down a bit.

Your car would look 100 times better with a 98-01 teg front bumper. Still looks like it will be pretty nice though.

A GSR's VTEC engages at around 4500 rpms.

That's why I originally said around 4500. When I'm driving the rev's go by too fast to tell if it's 4500 or 4600. Either way it's around 4500.

No it's 4500 and you shouldn't argue with me on this one. I just drove my dad's GSR around all night last night so I'm 100% positive it's 4500.

I have just one question about VTEC though..

 

I was talking to someone about certain GSR ECU's having a dual-stage VTEC setup? Is this something I should just shrug off or is it something Honda actually put into effect? He mentioned something about stage one engaging at 4500 and another a little after 5500 or 5600?

 

ANyone know?

A GSR does not have a dual stage VTEC. If you watch that video, you'll see that that's kind of impossible with the way vtec works. He's referring to the butterfly setup in the intake manifold on a GSR. A GSR's VTEC engages at around 4500 rpms. At around 6500 the butterfly setup opens the runners in the intake manifold making the runners longer. It closes them off into shorter runners under 6500 which helps midrange power. It opens them up into longer runners after 6500 which helps higher reving power. That's probably what your friend is confusing with a "dual stage" VTEC setup.

And also another explanation

WHAT IS VTEC?

VTEC is an acronym for Variable valve Timing and lift Electronic Control. It is a mechanism for optimizing air/fuel mixture flow through the engine.

An internal combustion engine converts the chemical energy stored in fuel into thermal energy. The increased thermal energy within a cylinder causes the pressure to build. This pressure acts on the pistons and the result is a mechanical force rotating the crankshaft. This mechanical force is measured as crank torque. The ability for the engine to sustain a certain level of crank torque at a certain RPM is measured as Power. Power is the rate at which the engine can do work. This conversion process is not 100% efficient. In fact, only about 30% of the energy stored in the fuel is actually converted into mechanical energy.

Physics says that for a given efficiency level, a higher rate of fuel consumption is needed for the engine to generate power. So it becomes obvious that if you want more power, you need to increase the rate of fuel combustion. One way to achive this goal is to have a bigger engine. A bigger engine with larger cylinders will be able to combust more fuel per rotation than a smaller engine. Another method is to pre-presurize the fuel/air mixture and cram it into an existing engine size. Thus even though the cylinder size stays the same, more fuel is combusted per rotation. This second method is referred to as forced induction.

Honda chose to explore another method: keep the engine size the same, but turn the engine faster to consume more fuel. Here is an analogy: You want to move foam peanuts from one bucket to another with a cup. You can increase the size of your cup, compress/cram as much peanuts as possible into the cup each time, or you can just move the cup faster. All three methods moves more peanuts. Honda uses the last method. And again, more fuel combusted equals more power generated by the engine.

As the engine speed is increased, more air/fuel mixture needs to be "inhaled" and "exhaled" by the engine. Thus to sustain high engine speeds, the intake and exhaust valves needs to open nice and wide. Otherwise you have what is akin to athsma: can't get enough air/fuel due to restrictions.

If high speed operation is all we have to worry about, Honda wouldn't need to implement VTEC. Indeed, race engines that operate mostly at high rpms do not utilize any mechanism like VTEC. But street cars used for daily driving spend most of their time with the engine at low RPMs. Valves that open wide for high RPM operation contributes to rough operation and poor fuel economy at low RPMs. These undesirable traits are directly against Honda's design goals.

The solution that Honda came up with is the VTEC mechanism: open the valves nice and wide at high RPMs, but open them not as much at low RPMs. So now you have a engine with smooth operation at low RPMs, and high power output at high RPMs.

And that is basically what VTEC is. It's nothing magical. The idea has been around for a long time. Honda's VTEC is just a very simple, elegant and efficient implementation that is extremely effective at achiving its design goal. Honda automobiles are the first among modern automobiles to utilize this mechanism in such a large scale of distribution.

NOTE: All text below "WHAT IS VTEC?" courtesy of www.howstuffworks.com

I know that most of us already know this stuff, but thought this might be a good sticky for all the noobs to read when they join.

First a quick video of how vtec works

Click here to see Video

WHAT DOES THE VTEC SYSTEM IN A HONDA DO?

If you have read How Car Engines Work, you know about the valves that let air into the engine and let exhaust out of the engine. You also know about the camshaft that controls the valves. The camshaft uses rotating lobes that push against the valves to open and close them. This animation from How Camshafts Work can help you understand how the camshaft opens and closes the valves:

It turns out that there is significant relationship between the way the lobes are ground on the camshaft and the way the engine performs in different rpm (rotations per minute) ranges. To understand why this is the case, imagine that we are running an engine extremely slowly -- at just 10 or 20 rpm, so it takes the piston seconds to complete a cycle. It would be impossible to actually run a normal engine this slowly, but imagine that we could. We would want to grind the camshaft so that, just as the piston starts moving downward in the intake stroke, the intake valve would open. The intake valve would close right as the piston bottoms out. Then the exhaust valve would open right as the piston bottoms out at the end of the combustion stroke and would close as the piston completes the exhaust stroke. That would work great for the engine as long as it ran at this very slow speed.

When you increase the rpm, however, this configuration for the camshaft does not work well. If the engine is running at 4,000 rpm, the valves are opening and closing 2,000 times every minute, or thirty to fourty times every second. When the intake valve opens right at the top of the intake stroke, it turns out that the piston has a lot of trouble getting the air moving into the cylinder in the short time available (a fraction of a second). Therefore, at higher rpm ranges you want the intake valve to open prior to the intake stroke -- actually back in the exhaust stroke -- so that by the time the piston starts moving downward in the intake stroke, the valve is open and air moves freely into the cylinder during the entire intake stroke. This is something of a simplification, but you get the idea. For maximum engine performance at low engine speeds, the valves need to open and close differently than they do at higher engine speeds. If you put in a good low-speed camshaft, it hurts the engine's performance at high speeds, and if you put in a good high-speed camshaft it hurts the engine's performance at low speeds (and in extreme cases can make it very hard to start the engine!).

VTEC (which stands for Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control) is an electronic and mechanical system in some Honda engines that allows the engine to effectively have multiple camshafts. As the engine moves into different rpm ranges, the engine's computer can activate alternate lobes on the camshaft and change the cam's timing. In this way, the engine gets the best features of low-speed and high-speed camshafts in the same engine. Several of the links below go into the actual mechanics of the VTEC system if you are interested.

Several engine manufacturers are experimenting with systems that would allow infinite variability in valve timing. For example, imagine that each valve had a solenoid on it that could open and close the valve under computer control rather than relying on a camshaft. With this type of system, you would get maximum engine performance at every rpm range. Something to look forward to in the future...

NOTE: All text below "WHAT DOES THE VTEC SYSTEM IN A HONDA DO?" courtesy of www.howstuffworks.com. Video courtesy of www.streetfire.net

Yes.

Based on those times, I'd almost say turbo D15b7 > H22 turbo. He must have really crappy tires or doesn't know how to drive.

Very unimpressive. That's seriously slow for a turbo H22 sol. Should be hitting low 13's on street tires.

Yes with varying amounts of work depending on which motor you pick.

Those are really old posts. Don't bring them back to life and we won't have to look at spaceships.