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CleanGSR

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Everything posted by CleanGSR

  1. I WILL OVERTAKE THE GINGER!!!!!!!!!!!! Just a few more to go.

  2. I WILL OVERTAKE THE GINGER!!!!!!!!!!!!

  3. Yup....good tip. Also using distilled or softened water for the final rinse will prevent water spots in the hard to reach areas.
  4. ... Adding to the original post since people get butthurt about product selection. The original post is a good guide regarding steps and techniques. Product selection plays a small role in the overall results and can be a big personal preference from person to person. I no longer even use the stuff listed in the first post (though I change up products about as often as underwear)
  5. I don't know....that's the reason I got a set of fabbed up stockers....just in case. Plus they were a ton cheaper. I paid $40 for all 4 top hats extended from a guy on Honda-Tech.
  6. You don't buy them...you make them by welding a piece of pipe to extend them up. If you notice the weld that goes around the top hat toward the top......the pipe section below that was added to the original top hat. The top hat was cut and that pipe welded in. Doing this will give you extra shock travel by letting the shock extend past the original point. Extended top hats will not change your ride height at all.
  7. THanks Rick. I've never thought myself to be odd or strange, but it's good to be different. Don't worry, I think I can safely say that you're a little different too. It's a requirement to be in the delinquent HF Family.

  8. Extended Top hats. Well, first....the top hat is the top portion that the shock bolts to before installing the assembly into the car. When you extend them it gives the shock additional room to travel beyond the normal point. Notice how much higher the top hat is than a normal one? Front Rear If you notice the welds around the top hat....that is where it was extended.
  9. Yep...it was stated in the 1st and 2nd posts in this thread....hopefully this bump will realize that adding an "H" at the end stands for "for Homosexuals" VTECH = Variable Valve Timeing with Left Electronic Control for Homosexuals"
  10. Here's a quick walkthrough of how to drop the shock in your front shock fork. I wish I had taken pictures when I did this, but I didn't, so here's the best I could come up with. This can be done with stock shocks as well to get extra travel in the front.....THIS WILL LOWER THE FRONT THOUGH....so don't do this mod without coilovers otherwise the front will be much lower than the rear and look dumb. If you are just going for extra shock travel and don't plan to lower anymore....then measure the ride height before doing this. When youi are done, just raise the coilover back to that same ride height and whoala....you have the same ride height with an extra inch or so of shock travel to keep away the fear of blowing the shocks. Also, you have no worries about the loose brake bracket. When reinstalled into the shock fork, the fork will keep it snugly in place and it will be a plenty tight fit.
  11. For cheap people here's the solution. (If I had thought of this I would have done it while saving for my shocks). Ground Control Coilovers = $300 Stock Struts = Free Extended Top Hats (4) = $100 Run Extended Top Hats and go with 1.25-1.5 inch in the front and 1.75-2 inch in the rear. Then Drop the coilovers to about a 2" drop all around. As far as your stock struts are concerned you'll only be dropped half an inch in the front and none in the back so you won't have to worry about blowing them. Edit: If you want to go even lower on stock shocks then here's another thing. Since you are running stock shock travel in the rear per above then you could easily go another half inch (to a 2.5" drop) in the back......on the front that's pushing it though since you are going to have the shock travel of a 1" - 1.25" drop in the front with a 2.5" drop. So......modify the lower portion of the front shocks where the shock sits in the fork. There are write ups on how to do this and basically you drop it in the fork another inch. What this does is drops the car in the front by and inch therefore letting you rasie back up and get your shock travel back. If you don't want to raise, then it will lower you an inch without losing any extra shock travel. I did this with my illumina's and have since run probably 30,000 miles on them with no problems. In an afternoon you could easily drop your car nearly 3 inches with stock shocks and never worry about blowing them....just takes a little extra DIY....so if you don't care about performance and just want a mild-heavy drop without blowing the stock shocks then this is the solution.
  12. So that ended up turning out well? I'm so happy if it did and glad you got it back to normal.
  13. Just thought I'd post something up since the title comes across a little arrogant and that was very unintentional. I did not come up with the 2 bucket method and don't claim it to be the only proper way (1 bucket + foam gun is the only other proper way though IMO). I also don't claim to be God's gift to the detailing world and there are a ton of people worlds better than me at detailing and buffing. I can hold my own though and merely try to pass on what little I know to other's so they can take the best care possible of their car. Everything I've learned, I learned from the awesome community of people at www.autopia.org. Just wanted to make sure people don't think I consider myself to be something special, cause I'm merely a guy that wants to see the fewest swirl marks possible on the roads.
  14. Clay Bar and then wax. Clay would be the least amount of prep I would do if I was you. If you don't have a buffer to remove swirls, then get something that has some fillers to at least hide some of the swirls. NXT 2.0 has fillers and would look better on an unprepped surface than something without fillers. That, said, I never really recommend not doing the proper prep (i.e. polishing out swirls and scractches) but understand that it's not possible for some people.
  15. I know I did one on engines, but don't remember one on buffing. Next car I do, I might take a video of each process and show the results, then do a video tutorial + writeup. This way people would have some type of instructions to follow when/if they buy the tools.
  16. I'm going to bump this up for some of the new members we have, just in case they are interested. I have a few comments to add: I do NOT use an absorber anymore (well I do on my glass, but that's it). I did find it to slightly marr the finish. Honda's have really, really soft paint/clear and easy to marr. The absorber just wasn't soft enough for my car. Second, regarding the steel wool on glass. There is a much, MUCH, better way to clean glass. Much faster and better results than steel wool. If you have a PC7336 or similar buffer then use a white or orange LC pad and some Optimum PoliSeal (I've also used DG105, but not as good as PoliSeal). Spread it on the glass on speed 3-4 and then work it to a haze at speed 6. It wipes off really easy and actually polishes imperfections out of the glass with the slight abrasives. Poli-Seal is also an AIO sealant so it will seal your glass, make it slicker and protect it from the elements better. The bonus, I can do all of the glass on a car in about 4-5 minutes tops.
  17. Hey Sexy. Brandon is good. He had his 4 month checkup yesterday and got his shots.....screamed like a little baby (lol). I felt so bad for him. He seems to be doing better now. Glad your Brandon is doing well. Send my some recent pics if you have them. I'm sure he's growing like crazy.

  18. I just wanted to say that your accord is incredible. So "simple" and clean, exactly the way it should be done. One of my fav. accords I've seen.

  19. No baby yet. Couple weeks until her due date but she's hoping to deliver soon. It's getting pretty miserable for her with the crazy heat.

  20. Well, everybody's seen mine so I hadn't posted them.....but here they are anyway. Wheels maybe sold soon!!! Winterized.... My engine doesn't look like this anymore.....soon to get a complete makeover
  21. Well there are both sealants and waxes that are good with durability. Almost all sealants though will have really good durability. Some waxes like Pinnacle Souvergn only last a month but look better than any sealant (on dark cars and that's just my opinion). There are waxes out there that can rival the best sealant on durability too though. Sealants are generally easier to apply and remove. For example, Meguiars 21 (sealant) is easier to apply and remove than Meguiars 26 (wax)...both are pretty easy though so might not be the best comparison. Also, waxes usually give more of a deep glow while sealants are known for high reflectivity....like a miror or glass. It's all in perference. I always do 2 coats of a sealant topped with a good wax to get a little of both looks. Also, I think sealants usually make the finish slicker than a wax and don't attract dust like a wax. Waxes use oils (carnuba oils) to help protect your finish and to give the deep wet look. Oils attract dust. Sealants don't use those oils and almost repel dust IMO. Again it's all preference, but if I was only limited to a single coat of sealant/wax, I'd choose a sealant everytime..... again, that's just my opinion on which is better for me.
  22. You don't need to apply both a sealant and a wax unless you really want to. They both do the same job (essentially), they just do it in slightly different ways (chemically). The only reason to use a sealant and wax both is to get the perfect look. You'll get no extra protection out of using both and a little extra durability, but not much.
  23. Yeah, with wax, you just need to get it on the paint....don't rub hard, just get a nice thin coat on there. Let it haze and remove. With sealants, the longer you let it haze the better, with wax remove it as soon as it hazes or it will get difficult to remove.
  24. I agree. Microfiber Rags are a godsend on glass, quick detailing and wax/polish removal. I still use good ol terry cloth's for all my dirty work though.
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