CleanGSR

Website: fox-stock.com

I ordered Omni-Sleeves about 2 months ago and his website did NOT say that these were backordered. This is the only reason that I ordered from him as only one other place was not backordered and fox-stock was slightly cheaper.

A week after my order is placed, I'm told that they are on a 2 week backorder. 2 1/2 weeks later I email to find out what's going on and he says they're on backorder for another 2 weeks.

2 1/2 weeks later, I email him for another update. He says he's having a hard time getting them from Omni and I've spent that last 1-2 weeks trying to get a straight answer. I've requested my money back and he's beat around the bush about that. So here we are about 2 months after my order was placed (not listed as backordered) and still no product.

At first I didn't care since I was saving up for illuminas before installing the sleeves, but now I'm getting ready to order the shocks and will be sitting here with no coilover sleeves. Merry Christmas to me. Thanks for the run-around fox-stock.

Yeah, it's already been stated that the list is way off. It's a super old list too. I think this should be locked or a mod should edit the first post with accurate information.

Sounds good. Let me know. It will have to have a valid title though. I won't purchase a car with a Bill of Sale and if he was able to do a repo, it sounds like he may not have a title. In any case, let me know what's going on.

To be honest, if it was in incredible condition with under 100,000 miles or right at it, I'd even consider paying around 2 grand. Having a good stable platform that I don't have to worry about is worth a few hundred to me.......plus the 1st gens are incredibly hard to come by, especially in great condition.

^^ That's exactly what I'm looking for only a 1st gen. However, I'd consider spending 2k for one that had no body damage or rust, really good interior and ran great. For 2 grand though, I shouldn't have to do much of anything to it.

Yeah, let me know and make sure he's got a good title to the car. Sounds like some wierd stuff going on in the past.

Hung, I know a guy selling an 89 teg with some bolt ons, good body and aftermarket rims, forgot what kind, it runs strong too, i think he only wants 2k for it or so. only thing is its in AZ

 

I need a sheet(s) of carbon fiber, about 4 feet by 3 feet would be good enough i think. just plane finished uncut sheets. or if you know where i can buy some that wood be good too.

 

also need lexan windows for a 2nd gen CRX all 7 windows or a place to buy lexan in sheets.

 

last thing on my mind is a 1st gen CRX shell. prefer 87 SI model but will consider other years and models too no motor or interior fine, just want a good straight body.

Any chance he'd be willing to put the stock rims back on and remove the bolt on's and put stock parts back on and drop the price accordingly? I'd rather not have one modded since it would be wasted money (it will all get replaced with stuff I have planned). Arizona is just a one way plane ticket and a really long drive, so I could deal with that if the car could handle the road trip.

No, I'm actually looking for the hatch lid from a 98+ Integra 2 door, not another entire car. I'm not selling my car. I'd like to find a running 1st gen teg in decent shape to get as a daily driver and also make it a long term project car.

Oh, well there you go. The F20C is the 2.0 liter that came in AP1 S2000's and the F22C is the 2.2 liter that came in the AP2.

Looking for a 94-01 Tegra GSR or LS or 97-01 Prelude SH

You can buy mine. Of course it's probably too high since I'd have to have retail price on it. Seriously though, pm me if you're interested. If not then......

Looking for a 98-01 Integra 2 door hatch. Perferebly in FBP and within 100 or so miles of 65559. (I know it's a long shot)

Also kind of looking for a 86-89 2 door Integra. Must be manual, good body condition and must run. Also must be a good price.

this may or may not be a stupid question but i don't care, what do they put in the s2000, they make 240 hp n/a and i don't see anything that powerful on that list. i know that its a 2.2L and thats about it.

They put an F20C or F22C in the S2000. I'm not sure what you're asking beyond that. Every aspect of the makeup of that motor is what gets it to 240 hp.

Well, I don't have a high client base so have the cheaper price helps with getting started. I also offer a basic package with just wash, wax, wheels/tires and interior, etc.... for all the people who don't really care about their car but want it to look decent. I can nail out one of those pretty quick....about 2 hours for a compact. Plus I use my car as an example of my work. 7 year old paint with no swirl marks or hazing kind of shows that I know how to do a good detail. Especially since it's black and wouldl show the smallest imperfection.

how mcuh would i pay to have a detailer do all that for me? my paint is in bad shape cuz whoever had it before me must have parked it oustide and never waxed it cuz the paint feels rough and the waterspots have etched themselves into the finish. i have a question, there are fine white lines in the front of the hood of my car, just on the hood, that look like towel lint from a distnace, but up close it looks like actualy cracks in teh paint almost like the paint is splitting or something. you can feel these cracks with your fingers. i have no idea what caused these since they where there when i bought the car.

Yeah, it depends on where you go. A full multi stage polish and the full works I charge $200 for a compact car like a civic or integra. $250 for a mid size car. I figure on a compact car it takes me about 7-8 hours for the full detail so I'm making $25/hour minus supplies. Plus I'm a good bit under the normal price around here so it helps get me business. That includes engine and interior, etc.... too.

Probably nothing can be done about the cracks in your hood without re-spraying it.

Yeah, the waiting process is the hardest part. I know exactly what you mean.

If you're ever in Missouri, we'll detail your car together so you can learn and I'd only let you pay me about $20 for supplies. Good luck with your car, and hope it comes out as nice as you're hoping.

Cranny's method is what I would do on a freshly painted car with some orange peel, but not a 5 year old car. I've never seen a finish that couldn't be taken out with the right combo of compounds. Plus a compound is better since the abbrasives break down and end up polishing the paint up after you work it in.

So my car is a badly swirled, ungaraged, honda black. Natty's Blue? I prolly won't worry about the swirls cuz it'll only be a matter of time before it gets painted.

 

Edit: Swirls are the result of not using the two-bucket wash process? So, if you wash it right from the start they don't happen very much?

Exactly. If you wash and properly detail your car then you will have very minor swirls come back. Nothing that a cleaner wax won't hide. I wouldn't reccomend Natty's Blue on a swirled car. Get some Meguiars M21 or M20 (you can get 20 at O'Reilleys). You'll want something that has cleaning abilities in it to at least help hide some of the swirls. Meguiars products have a darkening effect which really makes darker colors look insane. If you want you could top M20 or M21 with #26 yellow wax and it will only get better.

Cranny - that would be so unneccesary on my car. My car has very few swirls on it that I can easily get out with SFX-2 which is a mildly abbrasive polish. If I ever need to step it up, I use SFX-1 which is about equal to 1500 grit, except it breaks down and removes it's own scratches. The process I use makes the car look like it's dripping, and I promise, I've never been able to find a bit of orange peel on my car. You can see the reflections in my car from accross the yard when I'm done. I'm not doubting your process and actually know some guys who do that to cars, but I grauntee it would be uneccesary on my car. Not to mention that honda's clears are pretty soft so it's not hard to get stuff out with an abrasive compound.

Order a Pakshak microfiber drying towel and you'll be amazed at how well they work.

Well, the polisher I use was around $200 with the pads, each product varies in cost and has different advantages. For example a can of pinnacle sovergn cost around $80, but has the greatest shine that you've ever seen on darker colored cars, but only lasts about a month. Zaino gives great shine in depth when used in the process I use and gives 6 months of durability. Around $50 in Zaino Z2, Z5 and ZFX. Collinite is a great wax for durability that looks great....around $20, Natty's Blue wax is the best wax I've used in the $30 price range and is better on darker cars. S100 and P21S are incredible waxes for the price and give great reflection on lighter colors....about $20 each.

Overall I've got probably around 500-600 in products, but (not counting the polisher) I only use about $5-10 on a basic detail. Most of the products go a long way and will do several cars, but since certain combos work better on different colors, I keep a wide variety of products on hand. Plus, I have to take into consideration if the customers car is garaged. If it's not garaged, I need a more durable combo, but if it's garaged, I can get away with a less durable combo and get better shine since it's not in the sun all the time.

If you have swrils that need to be removed, it will be expensive to DIY. You'll have to get a high quality buffer and the right products to get them out and that gets pricey. If all you do is a basic wash and wax every 3-6 months then definately do it yourself.

Interesting that you've stuck with the same brand. I'll have to do some research on that brand.

My full detail includes (on a badly swirled black car)

spray front with bug and tar remover

Spray wheels with Meguiars Wheel cleaner

wash w/ 2 bucket method. 1 bucket for rinsing my mitt, one for soap

dry with microfiber dry towel

clay bar with clay magic

Sonus SFX-1 by PC at speed 5

Sonus SFX-2 by PC at speed 5

Zaino Z5 by hand x 2

Zaino Z2 by hand x 2

Topped with Pinnacle Souvergn Paste wax

Windows cleaned and sealed with M21 sealant

Trim dressed with back to black

tires dressed with dupont tire cleaner

wheel wells wiped down and dressed with armor all

Wheels sealed with M21 sealant

Door Trunk Jams QD'd and sealed with M21

Interior

Full vaccum on interior and trunk

Brush out vents and crevices with Meguiars detail brush

Clean inside of windows

Wipe down dash, and all interior panels with Zaino interior spray

Spot clean carpets and seats (if fabric)

Clean and Condition Leather w/ Zymol

Only microfiber rags touch any part of the car.

I'm planning on getting a steam cleaner for interior fabrics and detailing the engine bay.

Interesting to see how other people do a car.

So let's hear your process. If you do any buffing/polshing to remove scratches, swirl marks, and/or oxidation, then post up what products you use the order and the brand of buffer/polisher you use. It should be a pretty short list, so no excuses about taking to long to type.

I use a Porter Cable 7424 random orbital buffer

Wash

Clay Bar

Sonus SFX-2 with blue pad at speed 4-5

Sonus SFX-1 with white pad at speed 3

Wax with Natty's Blue, Collinite, or M21 (depending on car color or whether it's garaged)

SFX-2 sometimes takes 2 coats and for heavily swirled or oxidized paint I use SFX-1 with an orange pad before the SFX-2.

Well I detailed my mom-in-law's car, but her engine was pretty clean. I guess the people they got it from cleaned it before selling. See my other topic for the details of the detail.

I've tried Meguiars, Mothers, and Clay Magic clay bars. Clay Magic is without a doubt the best of the three. You can probably find it at either Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts, pepboys.....somewhere like that. You'll have to follow it with a minimum of a wax though cause it will take everything off the clear, contaminants and wax both. They're usually around $10 or so. Really not that bad. If it doesn't come with a Quick Detailer, I reccommend either Mother's QD or Turtle Wax Platinum Ultra Gloss QD. You can possibly find the TWPUG at BigLots for 3.50.

The best invention to automotive paint. (not really but it's awesome stuff).

Basically to use claybar you spray a section of your car with a Quick Detailer of your choice and rub that surface with this soft clay that comes in the kit. You'll feel how the surface feels rough at first and after a couple of swipes it get's really smooth. Basically clay bar removes all contaminates, fallout, etc. from the clearcoat. It's not to be confused with a polish as a polish doesn't really get all of the contamination off the paint. If it's a car that's never been clay'd then you'll be able to see the clay get dirty as you use it. When it gets dirty just mush it up and the dirt will stay in the middle of the clay and you'll have a clean section of clay again. It really helps the polishes and waxes/sealants bond to the paint better, look better, and last longer. I'll try and show a couple of pics in my new topic tomorrow of the clay bar and what it looks like after a few swipes on a semi-neglected car.

I'll be doing a full detail on my mother-in-laws '03 Camry starting tonight and finishing up tomorrow morning. Process is Wash, Clay Bar, Meg's #9, NXT, then tomorrow morning top it off with Megs #26 and an interior clean. Point being, I'll be starting with degreasing and detailing the engine bay. I don't know what it looks like, but I'd imagine pretty dirty. Before and After Pictures of the above process will be coming soon.

Sweet. Post up some pics.

I should add in this post that sometimes my valve cover looks a little dull and spraying tire wet on a rag and wiping it into the valve cover really makes it shine and look like new. This would only work on the valve covers that are kind of rough textured.