Icy_winds_ Posted December 22, 2003 Share Posted December 22, 2003 Anyone know them selves, or know a book or website where it tells them the steps on breaking in a new engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted December 22, 2003 Share Posted December 22, 2003 2,000-3,000 miles under 3,000-3,500 RPM, unless you want to do a race engine break in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Icy_winds_ Posted December 22, 2003 Author Share Posted December 22, 2003 2,000-3,000 miles under 3,000-3,500 RPM, unless you want to do a race engine break in. That dosen't get a sufficient ring load to break in the seals, theres going to be alot of blow by and alot of oil changes and, oil pan clean outs, whats the race setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted December 23, 2003 Share Posted December 23, 2003 It doesn't take a genius to figure out you have to change your oil as normal. You don't clean your oil pan out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Icy_winds_ Posted December 23, 2003 Author Share Posted December 23, 2003 It doesn't take a genius to figure out you have to change your oil as normal. You don't clean your oil pan out. It looks like you haven't broken in a motor before and I haven't either.And yes you have to clean your oil pan out the first 20 miles, to remove the metal shavings that come from the piston ring break in process. I contacted GoldenEagle MFG. and mototune usa, and I'm gonna follow there steps. 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running a new engine, going by the owners engine manual, is the wrong way and GoldenEagle and mototune proved it to me. If small Aluminum chips from the piston falls on steel parts such as the crank shaft and if it gets into rod bearings it coats and creates a loss in power. So they change the oil earlier so the get most of it out to prevent the aluminum problem, and regular oil change finishes it up. On the left that piston was broken in the way the factory book told (and the factory dosent go by the book) them to. The right was the mototune way to break it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boy blue Posted December 23, 2003 Share Posted December 23, 2003 wow pretty interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Icy_winds_ Posted December 23, 2003 Author Share Posted December 23, 2003 And another thing they told me is, you shouldn't use synthetic in the break-in process it put's it under arrest. You should use synthetic after the first 1,500 miles, or to be safe after 3,000 miles. Also if the block has been to the machine shop, there metal shavings left over from that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBirdSucks Posted December 23, 2003 Share Posted December 23, 2003 actually, a good machine shop cleans everything after they've modified it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Icy_winds_ Posted December 23, 2003 Author Share Posted December 23, 2003 actually, a good machine shop cleans everything after they've modified it. Yeah a good (highpriced) one. Some slackers use airguns then really really small chips are left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted December 24, 2003 Share Posted December 24, 2003 You do not clean your oil pan. All engines (whether brand new from the factory or recently built by a shop) do not have metal shavings or chips in them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Icy_winds_ Posted December 24, 2003 Author Share Posted December 24, 2003 You do not clean your oil pan. All engines (whether brand new from the factory or recently built by a shop) do not have metal shavings or chips in them. yes you do. G.E and Mototune both say to clean your oil pan out from the ring breakin. You've never broken in an engine before, so you should'nt be talking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optional187 Posted December 24, 2003 Share Posted December 24, 2003 why'd you ask if you already know the answer to the question? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM Jackass2 Posted December 24, 2003 Share Posted December 24, 2003 i got some magnetic drain plugs at napa... there wasn't any more or less metal on the plugs during the break-in process or after it. you are right about the oil... run standard. i broke my engine in for 500 miles (save the flames) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Icy_winds_ Posted December 24, 2003 Author Share Posted December 24, 2003 why'd you ask if you already know the answer to the question? I emailed some other companies and asked this question at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted December 25, 2003 Share Posted December 25, 2003 yes you do. G.E and Mototune both say to clean your oil pan out from the ring breakin. You've never broken in an engine before, so you should'nt be talking. I have broken in quite a few engines, you don't clean the oil pan. There is a thing called an oil filter. It filters out all metal or foreign objects in the oil. A piece of metal doesn't magically get stuck to the crank or something else, it just floats in the oil, then gets caught by the oil filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duff Man Posted December 25, 2003 Share Posted December 25, 2003 good call on the oil filter.....funny how they work, eh? i read that article too, if i'm not mistaken. i was told by the machine shop that built my motor (in my VW, but it's the same for all 4 stroke engines) to take it easy for the first 500 miles. ie: keep it under 3k at all times if possible. after the first 500 to the next 500-1000 keep it under 4k-4.5k at all times if possible. changing the oil and filter inbetween the two intervals (they say due to the extra amount of metal that can be in the oil). after the first 1500, change the oil again, and if you want to run synthetic, then to just put it in at this point and drive the car normal from there. i'd heard rumors that the total seal gapless rings i had put in would take longer to seat.....so i kinda took the mototune way and mixed it with the machine shops way....so far so good i guess. all i did was listen to their rules about keeping it under certain rpm's, and with mototunes (if it's the right article) i floored it all the way up to that rpm limit. occasionally going over for the extra pressure that would be in there due to the VW 16v head not really breathing at all under 4k. taking it no where past 5k (limit is 7200). i do notice i burn oil somewhat.....'bout a quart or so every two weeks (quite a bit of driving for me inside that two weeks)...but that's probably due to the thin oil i run (5w/30 royal purple) and the forged JE's that are in there...i'm starting to question the machine work done to fit the pistons...but supposedly it's a really reputable shop...so. :shrug: the extra cylinder pressures from WOT does make some sense as to literally push the rings into the cylinders....but i wont be for certain how well it works till i pull the thing apart again....who knows when that'll be. but also keep in mind that mototune article is centered around motorcyles.....still a 4 stroke, but their conditions are a little different than those in a car..... if i had the money to keep rebuilding blocks and trying different break in periods, i would.....kind of like a real world test. HTH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Icy_winds_ Posted December 25, 2003 Author Share Posted December 25, 2003 I have broken in quite a few engines, you don't clean the oil pan. There is a thing called an oil filter. It filters out all metal or foreign objects in the oil. A piece of metal doesn't magically get stuck to the crank or something else, it just floats in the oil, then gets caught by the oil filter. Oil fiters dont catch everything dont talk to me like I'm stupid. I'm not taking your advice on breaking any motor in. Mototunes way is not an article just for motorcycles as it says its for 4 strokes, G.E told me it in a very similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted December 26, 2003 Share Posted December 26, 2003 I have broken in quite a few engines, you don't clean the oil pan. There is a thing called an oil filter. It filters out all metal or foreign objects in the oil. A piece of metal doesn't magically get stuck to the crank or something else, it just floats in the oil, then gets caught by the oil filter. Oil fiters dont catch everything dont talk to me like I'm stupid. I'm not taking your advice on breaking any motor in. Mototunes way is not an article just for motorcycles as it says its for 4 strokes, G.E told me it in a very similar. Well. Oil filter + oil change = no metal = no need to clean oil pan. My dad is the area service manager for GM and he has no problems at all with engines that are under the break in mileage. The only time his techs (there are over 200) find metal in the oil is when a part failed, and yes, GM checks the oil when they change it in new cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duff Man Posted December 26, 2003 Share Posted December 26, 2003 i ran my oil through a filter.....didn't catch anything in it...had a slight shimmer to it from the small bits of metalic.....but nothing huge. i guess any big bits could still be on the other side of the baffle walls in the pan.... :shrug: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Icy_winds_ Posted December 26, 2003 Author Share Posted December 26, 2003 i ran my oil through a filter.....didn't catch anything in it...had a slight shimmer to it from the small bits of metalic.....but nothing huge. i guess any big bits could still be on the other side of the baffle walls in the pan.... :shrug: I would clean the pan for the metal in the oil I could'nt see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.