engine dies while driving

[areyes]

My 98 accord with 125k on it will randomly die when it is running, all the electrical stays on (lights, radio etc...). I recently blamed it on a fuel issue so i replaced the fuel pump and dumped some sea foam in the gas tank for the fuel injectors. This solved the problem for almost a month (the car dies maybe once a month), then it did it again just last week. This time a green light on the dash board came on in the shape of a key, right before the car died. I was in acceleration during the time so it was not in idle, and it run's fine all around except for this issue. Any suggestions as what to do or check out, its got a CEL on and i have yet to plug it in, but most likely its the transmission code (dang thing's on its second tranny and already slippin again). Has anyone experienced this problem? thanks

[Raley]

check code, get back to us.

[Escape-performance]

If the car only dies once a month and you only made it a month without stalling after changing the pump I would say that was not the problem. Check your owners manual for what the green key light is, pull the ecu and trans codes.

[areyes]

checked the codes and the P0420 came up for the oxygen sensor 1. I doubt this has anything to do with what is happening but i have a feeling it might be due to a bad distributor/ignition module.On this car it had been leaking oil for quite some time, not a lot but enough to notice and after digging around in it during the fuel pump replacement, i found the oil to be trailing out right underneath or where the distributor rotor ties into the engine. Maybe some oil has seaped all the way into the transformer or the ICM and corroded some connections. What do you guys think?

[Xeryon]

Leaking distributor is a common issue. You can buy a new O-ring for it for a couple dollars.

 

Used to have a random dying issue with my 98 accord auo as well. Dogged us for a year or more. Finally broke down and went to the dealer and a trans speed sensor was giving a code readable only via a Honda code scanner - two other shops and an autozone scan never showed anything conculsive. Just an error labeled "error". $100 and problem was solved. Kind of retarded of Honda to give codes unidentifiable by a generic scanner.

[areyes]

Leaking distributor is a common issue. You can buy a new O-ring for it for a couple dollars.

 

Used to have a random dying issue with my 98 accord auo as well. Dogged us for a year or more. Finally broke down and went to the dealer and a trans speed sensor was giving a code readable only via a Honda code scanner - two other shops and an autozone scan never showed anything conculsive. Just an error labeled "error". $100 and problem was solved. Kind of retarded of Honda to give codes unidentifiable by a generic scanner.

 

 

 

 

what are you serious you have to use a honda code scanner to get all the codes! the transmission code was always being thrown i think the P0740 for the torque cluth converter previously cause the passenger side cv joint seal in the transmission started leaking and leaked out all the transmission fluid and almost destroyed the second transmission that this car has. Fortunately it only slipps a little out of 1st and into second so not to bad. But even though the transmission is still slipping this code has not come back since i changed the fuel pump and had the negative battery disconnected (cleared any codes). Wonder if i need the honda scanner, thats BS!

[Xeryon]

Most codes can be read with a generic, just some of the more Honda technology specific stuff can't.

[areyes]

so what do i do about the oxygen sensor code just replace it?

[Hia]

If you are driving and sudently engine died (all turn off without any warning light on dash). And you can re-start the car right after without any problem. You need to change the ignition witch (only the wires, not the whole ignition with key). This model has problem and U.S. recall but not Canada.

[areyes]

i called the dealership and gave them my VIN they said the recal was already done on this car. The car did it to me again the other night, but this time i did notice when i tried to restart the car it would not stay running it immidiately died. I then tried starting the car and reving the engine and then switching it out of park and into drive, but the shifter was locked and i could not get it out of park until a few re-starts. The same stuff happened though all electrical stayed on just engine dies. I'm begining to think that its something with the ignition electrical circuitry, has anyone had to do the recal on the ignition switch twice before? Any other suggestions? Have no replaced distributor but i have the part and just waiting for the next opportune moment. thanks

[itsahonda]

I haven't dealt with ignition switch problems, but did have weak ignitor cause me a lot cold starting problems a few years back. It was only the first start of the day after the car had been sitting overnight in bitter cold air. Replacing the distributor, thus the ignitor, solved that problem. I do recall reading somewhere about people having the ignition switch issue multiple times.

 

A bad or failing o2 sensor can throw a whole 'nother set of symptoms, including erratic idle and driveablity issues from the engine bogging due to bad air/fuel mix. Resembles an inginition miss but is worse. A car can (usually) be driven through an ignition miss, but, if the cylinders don't like what's being offered up to burn it can cause episodes where the car will buck and bog down, making it difficult, if not impossible to drive until the episode ends. A bad o2 sensor can send bad information to the ECU which then sends bad information to the fuel system/IAC. The result is poor driveablility. I know this is far from what you're dealing with but just a forewarning that if the o2 sensor is also waving it's hand saying "me too" it would be wise to replace it after you get the other problem fixed.