please help

[ross615]

i have a 93 da integra with a built b18a1 and i have 2 problems i cant figure out

first of all, check engine light is on and car is running rough backfire and smells like gas i replaced map sensor but still does the same but when map sensor and sensor on back of intake mani (not sure what sensor) is plugged up car bogs and dont wanna go but when i unplug them it runs but still runs rough?

second question, my car wont do anything when i turn the key the starter wire isnt working i can take and run a wire from battery to starter and it will start ? any ideas please help i can send pics if needed

[C92hatchX]

change your starter?

 

do a tune up to it?

your running rich as frack?

is there an aftermarket fuel pump?

[ross615]

i got a extra starter just havent put it on and i got new ngk plug wires and new pugs but i guess the plugs could be fouled out but that still doesnt explain y my check engine light is on im not sure bout the fuel pump i know its new though

[James Matteu]

i have a 93 da integra with a built b18a1 and i have 2 problems i cant figure out

first of all, check engine light is on and car is running rough backfire and smells like gas i replaced map sensor but still does the same but when map sensor and sensor on back of intake mani (not sure what sensor) is plugged up car bogs and dont wanna go but when i unplug them it runs but still runs rough?

second question, my car wont do anything when i turn the key the starter wire isnt working i can take and run a wire from battery to starter and it will start ? any ideas please help i can send pics if needed

 

1. "check engine light is on" - you need to pull the code stored in the ECU. Let us know what it is

 

2. "when map sensor and sensor on back of intake mani (not sure what sensor) is 'plugged up' [sic] car bogs and dont wanna go" - the other "sensor" could be IACV, TPS, etc., pretty much anything with a connector since your vague in the description. Take a clear pic of it, post it here for everyone to see.

 

3. "my car wont do anything when i turn the key" - lights? door chime? or dead as a doornail? More info please.

 

4. "the starter wire isnt working" - which one and how do you know this. The starter motor needs voltage and ground, lose either and it fails. Sometimes corrosion can build up within a connection and cause intermittent failures. Check it out.

[ross615]

1. "check engine light is on" - you need to pull the code stored in the ECU. Let us know what it is

 

2. "when map sensor and sensor on back of intake mani (not sure what sensor) is 'plugged up' [sic] car bogs and dont wanna go" - the other "sensor" could be IACV, TPS, etc., pretty much anything with a connector since your vague in the description. Take a clear pic of it, post it here for everyone to see.

 

3. "my car wont do anything when i turn the key" - lights? door chime? or dead as a doornail? More info please.

 

4. "the starter wire isnt working" - which one and how do you know this. The starter motor needs voltage and ground, lose either and it fails. Sometimes corrosion can build up within a connection and cause intermittent failures. Check it out.

 

i fixed starter but i still have know idea why my car will bog down and sound like its getting no air when map sensor and other sensor is hooked up (im thinking other sensor is masss air flow) but i can unplug the sensors and it will run but it is burning real rich and misses when i drive it i will try to get a pic of sensor on back of intake mani

[Xeryon]

And for the love of god remove that ridiculously huge signature picture.

 

James noted, a common problem with starters has to do with terminal corrosion not providing a solid connection on the battery. First thing to check is pull the connectors, clean the terminals and connectors with a wire bush or whatever you got and tightly reattach.

[ross615]

And for the love of god remove that ridiculously huge signature picture.

 

James noted, a common problem with starters has to do with terminal corrosion not providing a solid connection on the battery. First thing to check is pull the connectors, clean the terminals and connectors with a wire bush or whatever you got and tightly reattach.

 

 

i said i fixed the satarter already i just can find out why my car running so rick and when i plug up my map sensor car acts like its getting no air intake makes noise then when i unplug it it runs but still runs rich

[James Matteu]

We are all in suspense, post the photo of that other sensor already!

 

I don't know what exactly you're unplugging, but it is definately NOT a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor serves the same purpose as a MAF, but they both do their jobs in very different ways. I know alot of GM and Fords use MAF sensors, I've never seen a Honda with one!

[ross615]

We are all in suspense, post the photo of that other sensor already!

 

I don't know what exactly you're unplugging, but it is definately NOT a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor serves the same purpose as a MAF, but they both do their jobs in very different ways. I know alot of GM and Fords use MAF sensors, I've never seen a Honda with one!

 

heres the pic it was hard to take a pic of because its so far back on the mani it wont let me put it on here 4 some reason but heres the link to the pic i took 2

http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac87/ross615/100_1039.jpg

http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac87/ross615/100_1041.jpg

[James Matteu]

You photoed a few things, cause you failed to highlight or circle the items of interest I am not sure what you are considering to be a "sensor".

 

Below you will see...

 

1. Midground in RED: the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), a broken one that is. The connector base is missing and as such the connector can wiggle its way off. Find a replacement TPS by Omni-Power, BLOX, Yanaka, etc. and replace that one you have on there now.

 

2. Foreground in YELLOW: the Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV), no connectors, but it should have small hoses feeding coolant to it otherwise it will stay open at all times in the false perception that the motor never warms up which can have the effect of keeping your idle high.

 

3. Background in BLUE: the Intake Air Control Valve (IACV) is hard to see but almost looks like it is missing the small hoses that should be connected at the bottom. Those hoses may have been removed by someone that wanted to lower intake temperatures, but keep in mind that is a cool idea once the car has warmed up. When you first start the car, warming the intake air stream helps with emissions, fuel consumption, and in some cases idle control (in really cold weather). Otherwise, as long as the connector in the back of it is still hooked up, it should be doing its job assuming it isn't dirty and clogged.

 

EDIT: If you are running the motor with the TPS unplugged, you should be getting a CEL. If not, you may have a burnt-out CEL bulb. Replace it and pull all codes from the ECU. Let us know what you find.

 

 

 

 

 

 

IACV with hoses:

[ross615]

You photoed a few things, cause you failed to highlight or circle the items of interest I am not sure what you are considering to be a "sensor".

 

Below you will see...

 

1. Midground in RED: the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), a broken one that is. The connector base is missing and as such the connector can wiggle its way off. Find a replacement TPS by Omni-Power, BLOX, Yanaka, etc. and replace that one you have on there now.

 

2. Foreground in YELLOW: the Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV), no connectors, but it should have small hoses feeding coolant to it otherwise it will stay open at all times in the false perception that the motor never warms up which can have the effect of keeping your idle high.

 

3. Background in BLUE: the Intake Air Control Valve (IACV) is hard to see but almost looks like it is missing the small hoses that should be connected at the bottom. Those hoses may have been removed by someone that wanted to lower intake temperatures, but keep in mind that is a cool idea once the car has warmed up. When you first start the car, warming the intake air stream helps with emissions, fuel consumption, and in some cases idle control (in really cold weather). Otherwise, as long as the connector in the back of it is still hooked up, it should be doing its job assuming it isn't dirty and clogged.

 

EDIT: If you are running the motor with the TPS unplugged, you should be getting a CEL. If not, you may have a burnt-out CEL bulb. Replace it and pull all codes from the ECU. Let us know what you find.

 

 

 

 

 

 

IACV with hoses:

 

 

 

 

its the tps my car will just bog down with it and map sensor hooked up but it will run with them unplugged

[James Matteu]

I don't know which are the correct wire colors, but you need to be sure you have the correct connectors connected to the TPS and MAP; I've heard stories of people mixing these up.

 

Your TPS should have 0.450 volts on the reference wire at idle. You will need to devise a way of connecting the sensor the ECU while being able to probe the output; I use de-pinned pigtails.

 

The MAP sensor should respond quickly to changes in vacuum. Same deal with the back probing.

 

Both sensors must have 5 volts on the VCC input line.

 

What codes are your ECU storing, I see you have a CEL.

[ross615]

I don't know which are the correct wire colors, but you need to be sure you have the correct connectors connected to the TPS and MAP; I've heard stories of people mixing these up.

 

Your TPS should have 0.450 volts on the reference wire at idle. You will need to devise a way of connecting the sensor the ECU while being able to probe the output; I use de-pinned pigtails.

 

The MAP sensor should respond quickly to changes in vacuum. Same deal with the back probing.

 

Both sensors must have 5 volts on the VCC input line.

 

What codes are your ECU storing, I see you have a CEL.

 

i havent checked the cel yet to see the codes but im going to do that tommorrow