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04cobra

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So i finally got a lil spending money. Plus i am tired of my honda popping when i am turning lol. Where is the best place to purchase the axles? Also if somebody could tell me how to change them out i would greatly appreciate it. I have all the tools i need i am sure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2004 Cobra Vert

1988 Accord LX (262K going strong)

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O Reily auto parts has em for like $50 or so with exchange.

 

Just take the axle nut off, take the spindle loose by removing the castle nuts (mind the cotter pins) and if possible, use ball joint splitter to separate the tie rod end from the spindle. Avoid damaging the ball joint boot. And do no hit the stud with a hammer or it will mushroom and the castle nut will NOT go back on. Once the spindle is free to swing away, pop the axle out with a pry bar or something.

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As far as parts go all depends on what is available in your area. Robins in the northeast sell new axlea instead of the typical rebuild and I have seen them hold up OK. Honestly, call Honda as the price on parts is like the stock market and you might be able to get a Honda rebuild at a similar price. Honestly the Honda rebuilds are the way to go. If you are thinking about putting on a POS part you might want to think about just replacing the boot and dealing with the clicking.

 

As far as the directions for replacing it the post above is mostly right. If you use a pickle fork to split the lower ball joint then you will most likely ruin the boot and the joint will go bad. Hitting the lower control arm on the "hit" point that Honda cast into the arm will usually pop it. I would like to sit here all day and tell you what I think you should do, but the reality is that if you are asking how to take an axle out and you just noted that you have some money to put into the car, the best thing might be to take it to a shop.

 

Otherwise:

 

1. take off wheel

2. take off axle (spindle nut b.t.w. torqued to 181 ft. lbs.)

3. take off castle nut for lower ball joint

4. pop lower ball joint

5. remove hub from outter CV joint

6. pop axle out of transmission with prybar (put drain pan under inner joint incase trany fluid leak out)

7. Install in the reverse, don't forget to torque the castle nut for the lower ball joint and re-install the cotter pin AND do not forget to re-punch/crimp the lock tab on the axle/spindle nut that you took off.

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I would like to add: Spindle nut might be torqued to 181 ft lbs., but after 262k (probably less as I am sure they have been replaced since then) that nut is going to be wickedly corroded onto that shaft. It very well may require considerably more force then 181lbs. My last set broke my 450ft lbs impact and I ended up cutting the nuts off with the air grinder.

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I would like to add: Spindle nut might be torqued to 181 ft lbs., but after 262k (probably less as I am sure they have been replaced since then) that nut is going to be wickedly corroded onto that shaft. It very well may require considerably more force then 181lbs. My last set broke my 450ft lbs impact and I ended up cutting the nuts off with the air grinder.

 

Can you describe the popping? I actually thought I had less of a problem than the whole axle being bad, I have minor popping on turns. I thought it was my ball bearings.

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Wheel bearings will grind, not pop.

Usually a single audible pop (not multiple) when turning is an indicator of a bad tie rod or ball joint.

Axles tend to be a quickly repetitive clicking/tapping sound that should very exactly in sync with the vehicle speed. Usually the clicking will seem to fade away at higher speeds because it is clicking so fast your ears can no longer differentiate between individual clicks.

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