dohc1991integra Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Of course its where most tuner drivers want to be... in the seat of a sick turboed, in most of our cases, honda. Ive done lots of research and read countless articles on turboes to freshen up and get "in the know" ...and like the turbo thread of this section said, "why buy something you know nothing about"? ...Id like to turbo this b18 eventually but id like to know all my options and all the info i can. I have a few basic questions id like to know, and a few off the wall questions too. Id appreciate the help so i could get this engine project started. Id like to be in the range of 750-800 hp ...just kidding, seriously though about 300hp sounds nice. im not to sure on turbo sizes tho. Obviously the popular hondas being t3 t3/t4 and t4. However im not really sure what the differences are. smallest to biggest? i was checking this out earlier... any thoughts? now i know along with this its good to upgrade fuel input and also a good tune, blah blah blah. this is just a conversation starter i guess. and it might help everyone else freshin up too. haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 The problem with eBay turbo quits is that you never know exactly what you're getting. If that's a genuine Turbonetics turbo, then you're getting quality. 300 HP, on your B18 means an increase of approximately 150 HP. I would look for something in a Garret GT25-30 range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohc1991integra Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 I would look for something in a Garret GT25-30 range. How does that differ from a t3 or whatever other turbo tho? whats the difference in that garret that could make it produce the right power for the range im looking at? does it have to do with internal measurements or more-so the inlet and outlet diameters? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 How does that differ from a t3 or whatever other turbo tho? whats the difference in that garret that could make it produce the right power for the range im looking at? does it have to do with internal measurements or more-so the inlet and outlet diameters? Yes. There are, quite frankly, a ton of variables when it comes to selecting a turbo. Just saying T3 or T4 tells nothing about the size of the turbo. It's all in type and trim size. Garret has a very good website where you can compare their turbos. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohc1991integra Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 Yes. There are, quite frankly, a ton of variables when it comes to selecting a turbo. Just saying T3 or T4 tells nothing about the size of the turbo. It's all in type and trim size. Garret has a very good website where you can compare their turbos. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/ thanks for the link. i need to do some more reading now something everyone asks or wonder. stock engine capability. everyone says you can go 7 or 8 psi on a GOOD tune. but how much HP will stock internals handle? and what are the first things to recieve damage if the engine is put under to much pressure? what would be necessary to upgrade internally if your going turbo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannaBstuntin Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 From my understanding...connecting rods, then possibly pistons, piston rings, head gasket, valve retainers, valve springs, fuel injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump, spark plugs, wires, camshaft... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 thanks for the link. i need to do some more reading now something everyone asks or wonder. stock engine capability. everyone says you can go 7 or 8 psi on a GOOD tune. but how much HP will stock internals handle? and what are the first things to recieve damage if the engine is put under to much pressure? what would be necessary to upgrade internally if your going turbo? Depends on your power goals. I would say 250 is reachable on stock parts, but I honestly don't know for sure. They say D series, which are known for weaker rods, max out in the 220 range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Munky_JDM Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 If you dont Have the $$$ for a Spanking New Garrett ot Turbonetics..do what i did...Buy a China T3/T4 Run it with a Oil Restrictor and when if it starts to Smoke rebuild it with Garrett Internals and you'll have a "Garrett" for Half the Price and depending on your "Re-builder" you can even get a Guarantee !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastresort576 Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 hmm interesting idea above...how were the clearances though? Anyways no where in that post does it say any turbonetics stuff is included just eludes towards it. and why would they even mention spearco products when it does not say it is included and the fmic has treadstone on it...so unless you plan on doing what munky said tell that kit to peace out. as far as the internals B-series internals are much stronger than D's. and specifically speaking Ls rods will take 300 with a good tune np. youll want: a 255lph walbro fuel pump, wideband o2 sensor, bigger fuel injectors 550's i believe would work since you dont wanna run em at a high duty cycle. and the regular turbo related parts. I'd leave the engine stock, but if you are so inclinded to upgrade,: connecting rods, oem/clevite/acl bearings, new pistons w/e you go with ur call but id go 9-1cr, the Stock valves are able to handle great hp #'s, but youll wanna replace your valve springs if you will be able to make power up higher than the stock rev limit, a cam is either way, basically the things you can do to make power are infinite, it just all boils down to how much money you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Munky_JDM Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 Actuall;y you can run a 190 Walbro just fine it holds up to 400HP..and didi adress anything else cuz wannaBestunin covered all teh basics...one last thing i rocking 10PSi with stock internals on a D-Series; Your B can hold up fine to 300 just rememeber some stufff..dont get cheap chrome manifolds weldings tend to crack; and try to buy a good Waste Gate & BOV ...besides the Turbo all my stuff is "original" cant complain abou anything ohh another thing Turbo Smart Boost Controller...thos eBay ones dont do crap! other tanh look ridiculous with that "Boost Controller" decal.... PS just get some DSM 450cc or EVO 560cc;190 or 255 Walbro; a wideband (i recommend Innovate); all in all a B Series version of my Setup! i'n not bragging or anything cuz half my stuff are handouts but i got em for cheap from freinds and friends of friends which i suggest you do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 hmm interesting idea above...how were the clearances though? Anyways no where in that post does it say any turbonetics stuff is included just eludes towards it. and why would they even mention spearco products when it does not say it is included and the fmic has treadstone on it...so unless you plan on doing what munky said tell that kit to peace out. as far as the internals B-series internals are much stronger than D's. and specifically speaking Ls rods will take 300 with a good tune np. youll want: a 255lph walbro fuel pump, wideband o2 sensor, bigger fuel injectors 550's i believe would work since you dont wanna run em at a high duty cycle. and the regular turbo related parts. I'd leave the engine stock, but if you are so inclinded to upgrade,: connecting rods, oem/clevite/acl bearings, new pistons w/e you go with ur call but id go 9-1cr, the Stock valves are able to handle great hp #'s, but youll wanna replace your valve springs if you will be able to make power up higher than the stock rev limit, a cam is either way, basically the things you can do to make power are infinite, it just all boils down to how much money you have. Walbro 190, 450 DSM injectors, wideband O2. You won't need valve springs unless you go with much larger cams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastresort576 Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 Walbro 190, 450 DSM injectors, wideband O2. You won't need valve springs unless you go with much larger cams. well the valve springs all depends on the rev limit set to prevent any chance of valve float. same goes for the TI retainers because less weight on the spring allows for it to recoil faster. and are you guys sure the 450's are still in range because I believe i read a thread on home made turbo that they're kinda maxed out in that general vicinity...when it comes to fuel better safe than sorry in my eyes. as for the MBC you could always make yourself one following this diy link: http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html and yea 190 will work but youll find a better deal on a 255 since its more readily available used..I got mine for like $40 shipped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohc1991integra Posted March 27, 2009 Author Share Posted March 27, 2009 now what exactly is a wideband o2 sensor? i hear about them all the time but cant seem to figure out what it is. and springs and retainers would proly get replaced. seems to me like an easier and rather cheap upgrade that can do much good. and i think most of my time (once im ready to turbo and the engine can handle it) will be spent shopping for the right turbo. im not worried about spending a bit more for quality wastegate , bov and mani. ...im just doing my research on the right turbo. and as far as ems, any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 well the valve springs all depends on the rev limit set to prevent any chance of valve float. same goes for the TI retainers because less weight on the spring allows for it to recoil faster. and are you guys sure the 450's are still in range because I believe i read a thread on home made turbo that they're kinda maxed out in that general vicinity...when it comes to fuel better safe than sorry in my eyes. as for the MBC you could always make yourself one following this diy link: http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html and yea 190 will work but youll find a better deal on a 255 since its more readily available used..I got mine for like $40 shipped. For his boost levels, 450s are fine. They run fine in a DSM at 15/16psi...94/98% duty cycle. Valve float won't be an issue until he either ups his rev limit, which is pretty improbably without a bottom end rebuild. Or grabs larger cams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastresort576 Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 For his boost levels, 450s are fine. They run fine in a DSM at 15/16psi...94/98% duty cycle. Ah wasnt sure, thats nice that i may not have to upgrade later on when i get myself a gt28rs.. Valve float won't be an issue until he either ups his rev limit, which is pretty improbably without a bottom end rebuild. Or grabs larger cams. Yea true, its not needed. I know I wont be a that point for a long time myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohc1991integra Posted March 28, 2009 Author Share Posted March 28, 2009 heres a couple ive been looking at... gt28 looks like its missing pipe from turbo to intercooler? and id change the mani T04 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown330 Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 now what exactly is a wideband o2 sensor? i hear about them all the time but cant seem to figure out what it is. It's a device that allows you to measure the relative Air Fuel Ratio from the exhaust stream. Wideband meaning it covers a broader range of values than the "narrowband" factory units which are only designed to measure mixtures close to stoich (14.7 AFR). A good digital wideband setup is pretty much needed if you are planing on doing your own tuning. I run Innovate's LM-1/LMA-3 combo. Wideband O2 along with 5 other parameters (boost, fuel pressure, TPS, & IAT for my setup) natively. Not something you want to cheap out on either as your engine will only last as long as the quality of the tune will allow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohc1991integra Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 It's a device that allows you to measure the relative Air Fuel Ratio from the exhaust stream. Wideband meaning it covers a broader range of values than the "narrowband" factory units which are only designed to measure mixtures close to stoich (14.7 AFR). A good digital wideband setup is pretty much needed if you are planing on doing your own tuning. I run Innovate's LM-1/LMA-3 combo. Wideband O2 along with 5 other parameters (boost, fuel pressure, TPS, & IAT for my setup) natively. Not something you want to cheap out on either as your engine will only last as long as the quality of the tune will allow. sounds to me like one of those devices you mount on your dash that tells you whats happening with your whole engine pretty much aaaaalso ive always wondered how a boost controller hooks up. ...i guess the answer would depend on if your using a manual or electronic controller. but to what, and how do they hook up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 sounds to me like one of those devices you mount on your dash that tells you whats happening with your whole engine pretty much aaaaalso ive always wondered how a boost controller hooks up. ...i guess the answer would depend on if your using a manual or electronic controller. but to what, and how do they hook up? They hook into the pressure/vacuum source for your wastegate, allowing you to increase/decrease the boost pressure by altering the amount the wastegate sees. For you, you'll most likely just be running off of your wastegate spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohc1991integra Posted March 31, 2009 Author Share Posted March 31, 2009 They hook into the pressure/vacuum source for your wastegate, allowing you to increase/decrease the boost pressure by altering the amount the wastegate sees. For you, you'll most likely just be running off of your wastegate spring. i was thinking there needed to be something electronic in the wastegate so when the adjustment is made from the car it electronically adjusts to fix the boost where you want it. back to an earlier question: any suggestions on ems? id proly go with hondata s300 but not sure. ...im confused what engine i should buy it for. i have a obd-0 car (91 teg) but a obd-1 engine (2000 LS) im confused how the ecu hooks up? ...was my car converted to obd-1 then the 2000 ls ecu is installed? (meaning i would get an obd-1 ecu) DOH! im an idiot, i know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown330 Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 i was thinking there needed to be something electronic in the wastegate so when the adjustment is made from the car it electronically adjusts to fix the boost where you want it. Actually they use solenoids to regulate pressure to the wastegate. Just installed a AMS 1000 on a friend's car. Vastly more powerful than anything you'd need but something like the E-boost 2 might be worth looking into for the future. Electronic controllers allow for time/rpm/gear based ramps to bring boost on in such a way you don't overpower the tires. With more advanced controllers you can set ramps for each gear and store separate, complete programs to control the turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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