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2000 INTEGRA GSR I NEED HELP TROUBLE SHOOTING


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OK.... I HAVE A 2000 INTEGRA GSR WICH I HAVE HAD FOR ABOUT 5 YEARS AND OVER THE LAST YEAR IT WOULD TURN OFF AFTER A COLD START AND WOULD HAVE TROUBLE TURNING BACK ON.... AND AFTER A WHILE IT WOULD TURN OFF WHEN COMING TO A STOP AT TIMES NOT EVERY TIME AND WHILE I WOULD GO ABOUT 4500 TO ABOUT 5500 RPM IT WOULD STUTTER AND SOMETIMES SHUT OFF AFTER I LET OFF THE GAS WHEN I FELT IT STUTTER... AFTER THAT I HAD IT PARKED FOR 3 MONTHS OR SO AND WHEN I CAME AROUND TO IT I REPLACED THE COIL AND WIRES AND PLUGS... BUT IT STILL DID THE SAME... SO I GOT ANOTHER DISTRIBUTOR AND I MADE SURE IT WAS THE RIGHT ONE AND STILL NOTHING... AND SO I PUT THE ORIGINAL BACK ON AND NOW IT WONT START AT ALL... AND IT HAS SPARK AND IT GETS GAS AND THE FIREING ORDER IS CORRECT AND THE TIMING IS RIGHT AND COMPRESSION IS GOOD... SO MY QUESTION IS WHAT COULD BE KEEPING IT FROM STARTING? OH AND I FOUND A BAD GROUND INSIDE THE CAR NEXT TO THE FUSE BOX ON THE DRIVER SIDE AND CORRECTED THE PROBLEM AND COULD I HAVE FRIED THE ECU? THANKS... DAVID

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as far as it dieing when coming to a stop, it could simply be a carbon buildup problem, but you did say you're getting fuel. Either way, try seafoaming the crap out of your intake and run some through your gas tank. I doubt this would work but it's worth a try.

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SO I GOT ANOTHER DISTRIBUTOR AND I MADE SURE IT WAS THE RIGHT ONE AND STILL NOTHING... AND SO I PUT THE ORIGINAL BACK ON AND NOW IT WONT START AT ALL... AND IT HAS SPARK

 

First, did you make sure you did not put the distributor back on 180 degrees off? It will still provide spark but it will be to the wrong cylinders at the wrong time during the compression stroke (just because there is spark does not mean it is sparking on the correct cylinder for the cycle). Thus the car will not usually run or if it does, extremely extremely rough.

 

Secondly, it could be the main relay, but I would also look at the entire vacuum line system for cracks, cuts, disconnections and leaks.

 

Once you varify the distributor shaft is not 180 degrees off the cam shaft, if the car runs, check for weak spark. Also it could the the TPS sensor has failed. Not supper common but not that uncommon.

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i had the same problem with a nissan i owned it was stuttering when comming to a stop and so on. it turned out it was the fuel pump, idk if that could be it . but i was having the same issues. as for what you did with the distributor i would check to make sure its not off 180 degrees like turtlehead states and go from there

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First, did you make sure you did not put the distributor back on 180 degrees off? It will still provide spark but it will be to the wrong cylinders at the wrong time during the compression stroke (just because there is spark does not mean it is sparking on the correct cylinder for the cycle). Thus the car will not usually run or if it does, extremely extremely rough.

 

Secondly, it could be the main relay, but I would also look at the entire vacuum line system for cracks, cuts, disconnections and leaks.

 

Once you varify the distributor shaft is not 180 degrees off the cam shaft, if the car runs, check for weak spark. Also it could the the TPS sensor has failed. Not supper common but not that uncommon.

YEAH I MADE SURE IT WASNT 180'D AND IT ONLY WANTS TO GO IN ONE WAY AND AND I DOUBLE CHECKED IT WHEN I CHECKED THE TIMING ON IT...

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YEAH I MADE SURE IT WASNT 180'D AND IT ONLY WANTS TO GO IN ONE WAY AND AND I DOUBLE CHECKED IT WHEN I CHECKED THE TIMING ON IT...

OH... AND WHEN I TRY STARTING IT IT WANTS TO START AND IT SOUNDS LIKE IT FLOODS OUT AND WHEN I TRY STARTING IT WIT THE INJECTORS DISCONNECTED IT CRANKS OVER TIL IT RUNS OUT OF GAS... AND A HONDA TECH TOLD ME THAT IT MIGHT BE MY ECU IS NO GOOD CUZ WHEN THE ECU USUALLY GOES OUT THE INJECTORS STAY OPEN... AND IF THIS IS TRUE HOW CAN I FIND OUT IF MY ECU IS FRIED?

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