joecollins2 Posted June 26, 2003 Share Posted June 26, 2003 ...Change engine oil Tools Necessary: reliable socket set jack and jack stands or ramps oil filter wrench oil drain pan funnel Before you start, make sure to pick up the proper amount of oil as well as the correct oil filter for your vehicle. The easiest way to raise your car would be to use ramps. However, if your car is lowered or just low to begin with, it will not be possible to use the ramps. In that case, using jacks and jack stands is going to be necessary. Once the car is up, locate the oil drain plug as well as the oil filter. If you have an automatic transmission make sure you don't mistake it's drain plug for the engine oil drain plug. Remove the oil fill cap. Place the drain pan under the drain plug and remove the plug. Once the oil is out, run a quart or two to flush the oil pan. This can make a big difference! Once the fresh oil passes through replace the drain plug. Note, you may need to replace the washer on the drain plug. If necessary, use the oil filter wrench to remove the filter. Otherwise, remove the filter by hand. This may be messy depending on where the filter is located. It is really messy on Hondas. Make sure to wipe up oil that has spilled on any part of the vehicle. Also make sure the oil filter gasket isn't stuck to the engine block. Take out the new filter, wipe fresh oil on the gasket and install it on the vehicle. It's best to tighten by hand. Get it as tight as you can. Using a funnel, add the new oil, check the oil level, and start the vehicle. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE!!!! Make sure the oil light goes out. Check for oil leaks. If everything is fine, lower the vehicle and check the oil one last time. ...Change Manual Transmission Lube Tools Necessary: reliable socket set jack and jack stands or ramps oil drain pan funnel w/long tube One of the best MTL you can use, is Redline's MTL. It is a synthetic lube that has special friction additives that aid synchro operation. Otherwise, non-synthetic engine oil (10w40) will work fine. These instructions are specific to any manual transmission equipped Honda. Raise and secure the vehicle. The drain and fill bolts are located on the passenger side of the transmission. Remove the top bolt using a 17mm socket. Remove the bottom bolt using either a 3/8" extension, or a 1/2" extension. Allow the oil to drain into the drain pan. Once the oil has drained replace the lower bolt. Insert the long tube into the fill hole. Put the funnel into the tube. Slowly add the lube until the oil starts to spill from the fill hole. After that, remove the tube and wait for the oil to finish draining from the fill hole. Once the oil has stopped draining, replace the fill hole plug. Wipe excess oil and lower the vehicle. ...Change Automatic Transmission Fluid Tools Necessary: reliable socket set torque wrench factory service manual screwdrivers jack and jack stands oil drain pan long funnel Before you start, make sure to pick up the proper amount of oil as well as the correct filter and trans pan gasket Raise and secure the vehicle. Depending on the make and model of the car, the draining procedure will vary. Most automatics do not have a drain plug, You will need to remove the drain pain in order the drain the fluid (you will need to remove the pan even if there is a drain in order to change the filter). Carefully remove the bolts from one edge of the pan. Then, loosen the rest of the bolts. Do not remove them at this time. Using a flat screwdriver, carefully pry on the edge of the pan where you removed the bolts. This will allow the oil to slowly drain. Once the oil has stopped draining, remove the rest of the bolts and make sure to carefully drain the remaining oil into the drain pan. With the pan off, rinse the pan with brake cleaner and clean the gasket surfaces thoroughly. Neglecting to properly clean the gasket surfaces will lead to a leaky oil pan. Using the factory service manual, determine the correct procedure for removing the tranny filter and replace the filter. Once you have cleaned the gasket surfaces and replaced the filter, it's time to reinstall the oil pan. Refer to your factory service manual for proper gasket installation. With the pan in place, replace all of the transmission bolts. Refer to the factory service manual for proper torque specs. Pans of this nature will normally require about 25 ft-lbs. of torque. When tightening the bolts, start with one, then tighten the one that is directly opposite the bolt you just tightened. Then, go back to the first tightened bolt and tighten the one next to it. Again, go across and tighten the bolt directly opposite the one that was just tightened. Continue this pattern until all of the bolts have been tightened. After the pan is in place, it is time to fill the transmission. Refer to your manual for proper amount. Lower the vehicle before filling. Fill the transmission using the long funnel until there are two quarts left. Start the car and let it reach operating temperature. Check the oil level. It should still be low. Add oil until the dipstick reads full. It is important to check the oil with the engine running. Checking the oil on an automatic transmission when the engine is off will give you a false reading. NOTE: Please dispose used oil properly. Most auto part shops will accept used oil and will recycle it for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted June 26, 2003 Share Posted June 26, 2003 Dude, you learn that in auto shop 1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joecollins2 Posted June 26, 2003 Author Share Posted June 26, 2003 Tell you what smart ass write me up an article FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE on swapping an H22a into an Accord!....Thought so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted June 26, 2003 Share Posted June 26, 2003 Tell you what smart ass write me up an article FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE on swapping an H22a into an Accord!....Thought so. Sorry, never done it. Guess you'll have to find out how through someone else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joecollins2 Posted June 26, 2003 Author Share Posted June 26, 2003 I know actually! Tell you what. You find out from someone else in your free time of not having any life and tehn come back and tell us you did it yourself! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyldkardz civic Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 you might want to add when filling MT fluid be sure to have your car as level as possible and to use genuine honda MTL fluid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM Jackass2 Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 LMAO, superstreet vs. joe is the funniest crap ever. btw, honda MTL is crap. this is what i run- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joecollins2 Posted July 2, 2003 Author Share Posted July 2, 2003 Should I have mentioned as well to only use Mobil 1 oil? That crap's good enough for Porsche and Ferrari to use from the factory and that's why it's flowing through the Civic and the M3! As far as Trans fluid, I use the same thing. Redline that is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM Jackass2 Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 i would run mobil 1 in anything with VTEC and/or 2 cams. all those SOHC noTECers out there will be fine with generic 10w30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyldkardz civic Posted July 3, 2003 Share Posted July 3, 2003 well ive had a slight grind in high rpm's from second to third in a jdm gsr tranny while using redline then i decided to switch to honda MTF grind no more in any rpm's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optional187 Posted July 3, 2003 Share Posted July 3, 2003 i've never had a grind while shifting...maybe you should just push the clutch in all the way next time redline, and mobil 1 10w 40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyldkardz civic Posted July 3, 2003 Share Posted July 3, 2003 no grinds when racing? maybe your not going fast enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optional187 Posted July 3, 2003 Share Posted July 3, 2003 no grinds when racing? maybe your not going fast enough i've done so much quick shifts in my car its not even funny... you should see all the time slips that are just laying around inside my car. granted all of them are mid 16's, but still...thats fast for my slow car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM Jackass2 Posted July 3, 2003 Share Posted July 3, 2003 well ive had a slight grind in high rpm's from second to third in a jdm gsr tranny while using redline then i decided to switch to honda MTF grind no more in any rpm's first of all, any grind that went away could have been from simply changing your tranny oil. second, grinds develope because people don't know how do drive as good as they think they do. go out and shift fast. but really pay attention to your clutch and shift timing. i bet that 95% of you start shifting before the clutch is all the way on the floor. this is what causes grinds folks. especially from 2nd to 3rd gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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