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d16z6 build


95exd16z6

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ok, so i have a Z6 in the works and i was wondering:

A. what kind of machining do i need to do?

i was gonna hone the cylinder walls myself

i was gonna do a port and polish on the head myself

B. i'm building the bottom end a bit, ne tips or suggestions?

im puttin in tuner toys rods and Vitara pistons caus im broke as a joke and theyre better than stock

is there anything else i need to know when building the bottom end

C. stock stuff, good or bad?

im puttin back on the stock IM and TB from the z6, but only after theyre shiny as new, good idea?

 

thanks alot all you guys, your input for us newbs tryin to break into the scene is awsome

Edited by 95exd16z6
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how many miles are on the block?

 

i'd pay someone to port and polish the head, also to hone the block. the stock z6 it a pretty good plateform to build off of. what did you want to build it into? turbo or all motor?

 

as for tuner toy rods and vitara pistons i've never heard of either.

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vitara pistons is a cheap altenative for boost apps. they are low comp. its gonna need machine dude if you want it to last , specially since you are not using honda pistons anymore. you know what , my opinion is save your money for new parts man , your asking for trouble really.

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vitara pistons is a cheap altenative for boost apps. they are low comp. its gonna need machine dude if you want it to last , specially since you are not using honda pistons anymore. you know what , my opinion is save your money for new parts man , your asking for trouble really.

 

 

yeah get good quality parts if your planning a lot of hp. Budget minded bottomend build, use the b18a or b18b rods and get a forged piston. You have to bush the small end of the rod to make the civic pins work or get custom pistons made with the b18 pin in them. Set up good for 300-350whp. Always get good tuning. by the time though you bush the rods and stuff your halfway in to getting some nice forged rods. Good rods are 295. Make sure you check the taper on the bores if your just going to freshen the engine up. And verify piston to wall clearance. Does no good if the piston and rings can't hold the pressure. Happy revving

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its gonna need machine dude if you want it to last , specially since you are not using honda pistons anymore.

what kinda machining am i lookin at? cranny, ur the one who told me to do the port job myself, but should pay the money for the work if i have like zero cash? id rather save that for some nicer rods or pistons if i could, and id try my best to do it right, measure the volume in each port and all.

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yeah get good quality parts if your planning a lot of hp. Budget minded bottomend build, use the b18a or b18b rods and get a forged piston. You have to bush the small end of the rod to make the civic pins work or get custom pistons made with the b18 pin in them. Set up good for 300-350whp. Always get good tuning. by the time though you bush the rods and stuff your halfway in to getting some nice forged rods. Good rods are 295. Make sure you check the taper on the bores if your just going to freshen the engine up. And verify piston to wall clearance. Does no good if the piston and rings can't hold the pressure. Happy revving

im not lookin for a monster,just a fun mild turbo build, no more than like 250-300 horses tops. im goin of to college for engineering next fall, so moneyll be REALLY tight, but id like to get a well done, budget turbo build under my belt by the time my sophmore year rolls around.

Edited by 95exd16z6
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im not lookin for a monster,just a fun mild turbo build, no more than like 250-300 horses tops. im goin of to college for engineering next fall, so moneyll be REALLY tight, but id like to get a well done, budget turbo build under my belt by the time my sophmore year rolls around.

 

 

250-300whp is monster power already for a little car. better to build it once than 2-4 times. Also build it for reliability and the power levels your are trying to obtain.

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properly built, without using crap components, you could easily build a 250hp turbo setup that would run for 100k miles. hows that for working around the broke issues? spend the money now and do it right and the fun car can last all through college, rather then breaking down and you don't have the cash to fix it.

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depending on your motor skills and your faith in yourself. anyone can street port/port match thier head themselves. buy a rotary tool that is RPM adjustable and that you know what RPM it is running at within reason. 10,000 rpm ideally. buy the proper bits , you can buy kits with all bits in there to do your head. buy some machinist dye. a new intake and exhaust manny gasket. i can give you a writeup on howto.

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depending on your motor skills and your faith in yourself. anyone can street port/port match thier head themselves. buy a rotary tool that is RPM adjustable and that you know what RPM it is running at within reason. 10,000 rpm ideally. buy the proper bits , you can buy kits with all bits in there to do your head. buy some machinist dye. a new intake and exhaust manny gasket. i can give you a writeup on howto.

 

please do cran man. I am sitting on two spare y8 heads and a z6 head myself. Plenty to practice on and I got them all for the right price: free!

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depending on your motor skills and your faith in yourself. anyone can street port/port match thier head themselves. buy a rotary tool that is RPM adjustable and that you know what RPM it is running at within reason. 10,000 rpm ideally. buy the proper bits , you can buy kits with all bits in there to do your head. buy some machinist dye. a new intake and exhaust manny gasket. i can give you a writeup on howto.

yeah, you already told me how to, but for x's sake, itd b nice if you did it again, but do u know any good ways of checking the volume of the port, just plug it up and pour a liquid in it?

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ok, so i have a Z6 in the works and i was wondering:

A. what kind of machining do i need to do?

i was gonna hone the cylinder walls myself

i was gonna do a port and polish on the head myself

B. i'm building the bottom end a bit, ne tips or suggestions?

im puttin in tuner toys rods and Vitara pistons caus im broke as a joke and theyre better than stock

is there anything else i need to know when building the bottom end

C. stock stuff, good or bad?

im puttin back on the stock IM and TB from the z6, but only after theyre shiny as new, good idea?

 

thanks alot all you guys, your input for us newbs tryin to break into the scene is awsome

hey my guy im building on a budget my self and using cheapo ebay special parts on a d16z6 im allmost ready to fire it ill let u know how it works out im using vitara pistons eagle rods stock crank ad what not.fore boost later

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hey my guy im building on a budget my self and using cheapo ebay special parts on a d16z6 im allmost ready to fire it ill let u know how it works out im using vitara pistons eagle rods stock crank ad what not.fore boost later

thanks man, keep me updated. did u do any machining to the block or head? how many miles did yours have?

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thanks man, keep me updated. did u do any machining to the block or head? how many miles did yours have?

 

 

measuring the volume of the port is one way to check if the ports are identicall in size but flow or cfm's is a better way to determine any increase. for every 2cfm increase you get in flow you roughly get 1 hp. If you remove material on a certain part of the port you can actually slow down the velocity and in turn hurt the flow. There are certain parts of the head that you don't need to touch and it will flow, but 50 percent of the flow increases can be found in the valve angles on the seat. I don't want to deter you from trying it out, but remember people who port heads for a living have had tons of experience. They have had there mishaps and found stuff that worked, thats why they can charge so much. It is worth though. As a beginner I would just remove the casting shift from the ports and bowls and blend in the valve seat to the port. That should get you some decent power with little effort. If you really want to get in to the biz invest in a flow bench and conquer the porting world.

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measuring the volume of the port is one way to check if the ports are identicall in size but flow or cfm's is a better way to determine any increase. for every 2cfm increase you get in flow you roughly get 1 hp.As a beginner I would just remove the casting shift from the ports and bowls and blend in the valve seat to the port. That should get you some decent power with little effort. If you really want to get in to the biz invest in a flow bench and conquer the porting world.

how do i check cfm's? is that what the flow bench is for? and how do i blend the vqalve seat to the port?

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honestly , the kind of porting im talking about , is mild and to clean up the way the stock head flows rather than alter it a whole lot , but it will a bit. flowbenchs and runner volume are if you want to pay someone reputable to alter your head. horse knows what im sayng , basically port match the head and clean up any casting errors. i disagree with horse telling you guys to even go near the valve seats , DO NOT GO NEAR THE VALVE SEATS , that is my opinion. i wouldnt go near the bowls at all either. run a polishing bit through them maybe , thats it. no grinding bits. you even nick your seats , its a problem youl have to pay someone to fix.

 

heres a site for reading and ordering what you will need. of course there is many more out there im sure.

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/

 

DIY

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.aspx

Edited by cranny
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honestly , the kind of porting im talking about , is mild and to clean up the way the stock head flows rather than alter it a whole lot , but it will a bit. flowbenchs and runner volume are if you want to pay someone reputable to alter your head. horse knows what im sayng , basically port match the head and clean up any casting errors. i disagree with horse telling you guys to even go near the valve seats , DO NOT GO NEAR THE VALVE SEATS , that is my opinion. i wouldnt go near the bowls at all either. run a polishing bit through them maybe , thats it. no grinding bits. you even nick your seats , its a problem youl have to pay someone to fix.

 

heres a site for reading and ordering what you will need. of course there is many more out there im sure.

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/

 

DIY

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.aspx

 

that's a good book i have it on my shelf. I used the blueprints to make my flow bench. Yeah becareful around the seats as to avoid contact with them but the most flow potential is 1/2" above and 1/2" below the seat. Happy revving

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thanks alot cran and IV. o, and i think i am just gonna bite the bullet and go arias pistons and eagle rods. better in the long run. oh, do either of you ko a real good way to clean up a set of 150k mile valves, those things are covered with al sorts of stuff thats near impossible to get off

Edited by 95exd16z6
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thanks alot cran and IV. o, and i think i am just gonna bite the bullet and go arias pistons and eagle rods. better in the long run. oh, do either of you ko a real good way to clean up a set of 150k mile valves, those things are covered with al sorts of stuff thats near impossible to get off

 

 

soak in carb cleaner or solvent. you can wire brush the rest

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im running:

d16z6 bottom end with Eagle rods, srp pistons and APR headstuds

jdm d15b vtec head stock. but the cam is epual to a zex stage one

thats all i have done to the inside with my turbo setup and im runnin 233whp at 18psi. i have a very small t3 turbo. im goin to upgrade the turbo, fmic and injectors and ill b at 325whp safely.

hope this gives u a idea of what u could do.

Picture147.jpg

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your D15B cam is equal to a Z6 cam , lol. there is nothing special about a D15B cam. do you think a company woul sell a cam and call it stage 1 when theres a stock cam out there with the same profile? how would you sell any? lol

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just make sure to keep your crank and block together, don't machine the crank though, just put honda oem bearings in it and plastigauge them to make sure that they have even pressure all the way around when tourqued. if you switch out pistons and rods, go hypereutectic (unless you're planning on adding boost). they're cheaper and stronger then cast but cheaper then forged, plus they reflect heat. copper lined headgaskets are never bad either...any critiques anybody??

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