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cracked head or even head gasket?


spike10197

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well today i checked the oil in my car like i usally do every monday. today is different. the dipstick looked creamy. well usally ppl say that if theres a cracked head or etc..the oil would look milky.

 

 

so where can i go to buy the parts?

anyone want to earn some money to install it for me?

i live in the inland empire 951

 

so pm me or something plz i really need someones help

 

:help:

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I think a blown head gasket can do that. That's what I've heard.

 

Replacing a head gasket is easy if you have a D series, which I'm assuming you do. I did it just recently with my friend in under two hours.

 

Mark where your timing belt goes so you don't have to reset it and remove the cam gear carefully, perferably without even loosening the belt. This can make it a bit of a pain to get back on but its worse to mess with the timing. Remove the valve cover. Take out the headbolts and lay them out in order so you put them back all where they came from. Disconnect the radiator hose that leads to the head. Lift the head up and prop it on something like a piece of wood for each side. Take out the old gasket and scrape off the surface that it sits on of the block and the the bottom of the head. Lower the head back down and make sure it's in place properly. Put the head bolts back in and torque them to the proper specifications (think its 43 but check that) using the proper order (again, check this in a manual). Replace the valve cover after having cleaned and reset the gasket. Then get the cam gear and timing belt back into place, keeping the marks exactly where they were when you made them originally. Reconnect the radiator hose and refill it in case you lost any fluid. Start it and check to make sure it works right and then go easy on it for a tank of gas.

 

That should be right. Am I forgetting anything? Someone let me know since I've never typed out a walkthrough like that before.

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i dont think i can do all that im kinda new to the whole working on cars things.

 

im learning but slowly.

 

how much do you think itll cost for a macanic to do it?

 

how much is the head gasket?

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Don't think I can give ya any advice, but I'm like 2200 miles over an oil change. Mine's really dark and it's sort of thick. I think it's just old oil causing that.

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well i just gave it an oil change like a month ago? i believe so.

 

 

if anyone could help me fix it or w/e im willing to pay you some cash.

 

 

im not a fracked up person

 

 

im a kid that needs help with my car badly.

 

:(

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No one is just going to come and do it for you as the members of this forum are too spread out to be able to do such a thing. So you are new to working on cars, how exactly do you expect to learn unless you gets your hands dirty?

 

Replacing a head and/or head gasket is very expensive via a shop, often $500+

 

You can do it yourself in a long afternoon and save a lot.

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he needs a couple tools me most likely doesnt have though. like a torque wrench. X is right though dude , you could do it yourself. unless youve never worked on a car before. and even than , you prolly could if your good at following directions and mechanically inclined at least a little.

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My philosophy on car repair:

 

If the mech shop was going to charge you $500, and the parts cost you $75, that leaves $425 to spend on tools to do the job. You won't spend that much on the tools so you will still save money, you will gain experience and be closer/more proud of your car because you did the work, and you will have expanded your tool selection so that you will already have many of the items you need to complete the next job that comes up.
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Cranny, did what I typed out about how to do it sound right, by the way? I feel like it must have since you didn't say anything, but I just wanna make sure I'm not spreading false information.

 

I agree with X's philosophy, but with one caveat: if your friends have the tools then just borrow them. Booyahkasha.

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yeah i guess.

im not really good at some things with cars.

its just confusing sometimes.

i got the manual.

ill go off of that and the advice.

 

 

one question.

 

where do i put the marks for the timming belt and stuff?>_<

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If you're referring to the marks I said to make as references to where your timing belt goes, I drew lines on the timing belt and on the cam gear so I could easily tell where everything was before I starting taking things apart.

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I think a blown head gasket can do that. That's what I've heard.

 

Replacing a head gasket is easy if you have a D series, which I'm assuming you do. I did it just recently with my friend in under two hours.

 

Mark where your timing belt goes so you don't have to reset it and remove the cam gear carefully, perferably without even loosening the belt. This can make it a bit of a pain to get back on but its worse to mess with the timing. Remove the valve cover. Take out the headbolts and lay them out in order so you put them back all where they came from. Disconnect the radiator hose that leads to the head. Lift the head up and prop it on something like a piece of wood for each side. Take out the old gasket and scrape off the surface that it sits on of the block and the the bottom of the head. Lower the head back down and make sure it's in place properly. Put the head bolts back in and torque them to the proper specifications (think its 43 but check that) using the proper order (again, check this in a manual). Replace the valve cover after having cleaned and reset the gasket. Then get the cam gear and timing belt back into place, keeping the marks exactly where they were when you made them originally. Reconnect the radiator hose and refill it in case you lost any fluid. Start it and check to make sure it works right and then go easy on it for a tank of gas.

 

That should be right. Am I forgetting anything? Someone let me know since I've never typed out a walkthrough like that before.

 

couple mistakes john but it wouldve got him through no problem im sure. no flase info there , just wrong order a little , lol. first thing to do whenever your gonna free the timing belt is set the engine to TDC. valve cover must come off to get the top timing cover off and get to the cam gear. only thing i disagree with john , and its not that you couldnt do it , but when taking timing belt off , its a good idea to retension it while its apart. you can crack the tensioner bolt no problem with ease , take the rubber plug out under the engine mount , 14mm bolt. than you can pull slack in the belt , retighten the tensioner , pow all kinds of breathing room. the timing in these cars , specially sohc is really a fukin joke so i wouldnt worry about that. dizzy must come off. wiring undone. leave intake manifold on. head bolts must go in same hole they came out you mentioned , good stuff. front rad hose comes off , as well as a smaller coolant hose in back going to firewall. few vacuum lines. i wouldnt say theres any false info at all john. different guys do different things different ways when they work on cars , just cause i may do something different , doesnt make my way right and yours wrong , you know what im saying , lol.

 

 

PS. that marking the timing belt and cam is good and all , but if you mark the cam wheel without the engine being at TDC , and the crank turns even a cm , it will be off a tooth , and youl be setting it again anyways. set the crank to TDC , and start ripping , lol.

Edited by cranny
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Oh, yeah, I forgot about removing the cover over that cam gear, just because the car I did it to was missing that.

 

Are you sure you need to remove the dizzy? I deffo didn't, nor did I take the coolant hose off the back with any vacuum lines. This might be because I just had one person lift the head up about 6 inches while the other guy snuck in there with a razor blade to scrape off the surface for the new head gasket.

 

I'd prolly agree that it's better not to rely on marking the belt and the cam gear and have to deal with shoving it back on while it's still tight, but I didn't know how to reset the timing when I did this so I just did it that way. How do you do that?

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set crank to TDC , set cam wheel so the spoke with the UP arrow is pointing up , lol , theres 2 hash marks on each side , 90 degrees to the UP arrow , to align with head surface(a helper , more usefull on DOHC engines). make sure theres no slack in between the cam wheel and crank pully on radiator side(front) , than feed belt around tensioner , than water pump. habe a look see at marks , make sure nothing moved , if all is good , crack the tensioner bolt , which will release and take up the slack(remember i told you guys to pull slack and tighten the bolt to hold the tensioner slack so you can work with the belt). than , using crank pully bolt , rotate the engine COUNTERCLOCKWISE a 1/4 turn , than without touching anything , retighten tensioner bolt. if marks are all still good , slap it together.

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well, if you know what you are doing maybe a couple hours max.

 

if you don't know what you are doing, but have a helper who does and is instructing you maybe 3+ hours start to finish.

 

If you are clueless, but have a wrench, a manual and patience it might take you all day.

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Yeah, it took me and my (more knowledgable) friend 2 hours to do it just recently. Plan on at least 3 hours just to be safe and sure you don't cut corners, which I was honestly worried about. If you're alone I would deffo set aside a whole day, but it'd prolly be better to just find someone who can help you. No one gets into the car scene alone -- you gotta have friends who do this stuff too.

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so does someone want to come over and help?

 

ill pay some money.

i can give u 200 bucks or something just help me out

 

I wouldn't mind helping you dude ! I will be out there in two weeks.Going to twenty nine palms that weekend .If you could wait that long .All your doing is a head gasket ?no head work ?

Do you have all the parts ? ...And what about tools ?

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