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8w7 jl sub what else?


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this might be redundant, if so sorry; just tell me what to search for. i have a JL audio sub, but im totally new to this whole audio thing. im not trying to spend a whole bunch of money on a system. im focused more on performance. i dont know what else i would need. i was floating around crutchfield and there is so much stuff!! equalizers, crossovers, enhancers, sound processors! i dont want a super complex system seeing as how im trying to save weight. can anyone give me a good idea of a semi basic set up (what all i really need) that will put out good sound? do i need an amp? watts? capacitor needed? oh yea, i dont need to blow my windows out either. any help is greatly appreciated.

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if you're trying to save weight, dont get subs in your car

 

get a 4 way amp to run 2 infinity 6x9s and a nice set of tweeters should be fine.

 

infinity kappa perfect 6x9s are proven to be just as powerful as a jl 8'' subwoofer.

 

most aftermarket headunits have built in equalizers so that's not too necessary.

 

get nice infinity door speakers to run off the CD player

 

you'll love it.

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if you're trying to save weight, dont get subs in your car

 

get a 4 way amp to run 2 infinity 6x9s and a nice set of tweeters should be fine.

 

infinity kappa perfect 6x9s are proven to be just as powerful as a jl 8'' subwoofer.

 

most aftermarket headunits have built in equalizers so that's not too necessary.

 

get nice infinity door speakers to run off the CD player

 

you'll love it.

 

Proven by who? Whoever did the test doesn't know car audio. A simple and easy way to prove that what was said IS NOT TRUE is: infinity 6x9 = mid range speaker, jl 8" subwoofer = subwoofer. They play different frequencies. I'd like to see a mid range driver play a 35-40 Hz tone like a subwoofer...it wont. And the opposite is true, try playing a 150 Hz tone on a subwoofer, not gonna compare.

 

To the original poster, you want "performance". What do you mean by that? Do you want to get loud? Do you want your system to be more musical? If you want something more musical, you're gonna need a sub that is more sq oriented. A 15" sub would probably be best in a sealed enclosure but you can still drop in an 8, 10, or 12 if you want. If you go ported, I'd tune it to 32 or 33 Hz, or just go sealed. If you do go ported, make sure your sub is capable of producing great lows. Go to www.tcsounds.com. They have great stuff and great prices. I do know someone who is selling some really good audio equipment because he is moving. If you PM me i'll put you in contact with him, just give me your budget and what you need. He's a moderator over on caraudio.com so he's not a shady person, plus I bought almost a grand worth of stuff from him.

 

Anyways, instead of 6x9's you're better off with 6.5's, they are better as midranges than 6x9's. You can easily create a baffle for a 6.5" speaker in a 6x9 slot if thats what you wanted to do. (A baffle is a piece of wood or object that is formed to the shape of the 6x9 but has an opening for a 6.5.

 

If you want a system, but want to save weight, just stick with a head unit, a small sub, an amp to power it, and a pair of 2-way coaxials for the front. Don't worry about the speakers in the rear, they are just fill speakers and thats what you have your subwoofer for. Capacitor you won't need, but you might want to upgrade your battery under the hood to keep voltage up. You dont want your amplifier to fail on you and blow if voltage drops too low, but running little power you should be fine, but I would check into an Optima Yellow Top or a Kinetik, probably the HC 800 for the Kinetik. You will also want to do what is known as "the big 3" which is adding some wires under the hood to make sure you have a good flow of current. I can provide a link if you're interested. Its very simple and I'm sure you can do it yourself.

 

As for breaking windows, dont worry about that, it wont be a problem. I know people running 5,000w (not max like many people state, but RMS or current power). I ran about 4,000 myself, but due to a weak electrical and voltage drops it was lower than that. All you do is get flexing of your windshield, roof, trunk, panels, etc. With a 300-500w system (which i would suggest for you) you wont have that problem at all. I'm not here that often, but join caraudiojunkyard.com/forum and there's lots of people there to help you out and several people selling stuff as well so you can find great equipment at great prices.

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Loud to you is nowhere near loud to me. In my old setup i was hitting 140dB..with speakers running off the HU, you're probably getting no louder than 110-115dB. He wants sub bass, frequencies that will be musical..without a subwoofer you are not going to be able to produce those frequencies, thus a sub is needed. I seriously doubt he will be fine with speakers in the doors and thats all. I'm pretty sure he wants some sort of bass and mid range drivers are NOT going to give you that.

 

I dont see how your suggestion is more practical and how it can be considered a system when its only a head unit and aftermarket speakers. To be honest, if you put an amp on the factory speakers, a small one...it will get louder than aftermarket speakers running off the head unit. I know this because thats what I was doing for a month. People with subs and their stock speakers were not able to get louder than me, sure they had the lower frequencies, but they couldnt get as loud. I'm not bragging, im just stating a different option if you wanted to get louder than stock speakers.

 

It's always a good idea to put an amplifier on any aftermarket speakers, otherwise its a waste of money. Think about it this way, you buy an S2000, but you decide not to drive it over 35 mph. whats the point of getting it? Just for looks? In audio, looks dont matter, its the quality that does.

 

A battery is not necessary if you go with a small setup, but anything near or over 1,000w rms I would definitely add a battery, otherwise you will be getting voltage drops, lights will dim, and you wont get the output you would like to receive...i'll restate my suggestion.

 

1 10" sub (tc sounds)

head unit (if you dont have one already)

amplifier for sub

and a 4 gauge wiring kit.

 

A friend of mine is selling an Audison SRX-1, which does 350 w @ 2 ohms and 200 @ 4 ohms i believe. Audison is Italian made, and Italians make great amps (look at Celestra, a 45w x 2 amp @ 4 ohms can cost a couple grand). The TC-1000 10" dual 4 ohm would be a GREAT match for this amp. The amp i think he is selling for 150+shipping, the tc woofer you can get on their website for 169 shipped, and you can buy a decent head unit for about 150-200 bucks. My same friend is selling and Alpine 7987 (or somethin like that for 180 bucks). I'm sure he'll cut you a good deal. Throw it in a sealed enclosure (0.4 cubic feet and youre set). Or get the 8" dual 4 ohm for 10 bucks less if you want and put that in a .3 cubic foot sealed enclosure. Basically, for 500 bucks you can get a great sounding budget system. Try comparing that to just some mid range drivers and it won't sound the same at all. And if you do decide to go with just some 2 way coaxials, check into polk speakers.

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Meh, I can care less...i wasnt trying to help the original poster from getting false information, he PM'ed me anyways.

 

Oh, and the last post i made took only a few minutes to type up :fyi: 20 mins is uber slow. If you didn't bother reading, well nothing I can do about that, its not my fault you want to be misinformed and keep misinforming others, I just think its wrong to do that. It's like George Bush trying to talk about car audio, or anything for that matter, and thinks he knows what he's talkin about. I'll refrain myself from making some snyde remarks and comebacks, it's not necessary, I'm just here to help people in the audio section.

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lol just reading back through the thread. .

 

 

if you're trying to save weight, dont get subs in your car

 

yea, because 1 8" sub will slow your car down by at least 2 seconds lol :crazy:

 

infinity kappa perfect 6x9s are proven to be just as powerful as a jl 8'' subwoofer.

 

lmao. . PROVEN? id love to see your sources on this.

 

subwoofers are too damn loud.

 

lol i dont even know what to say to this. . .

 

my information was more practical and costs much less.

 

lol your information was useless and was no help at all in regard to the OP

 

none of that impresses me.

 

hahaha . .

 

 

 

 

 

good stuff

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lol just reading back through the thread. .

yea, because 1 8" sub will slow your car down by at least 2 seconds lol :crazy:

lmao. . PROVEN? id love to see your sources on this.

lol i dont even know what to say to this. . .

lol your information was useless and was no help at all in regard to the OP

hahaha . .

good stuff

Same things made me laugh...the jl 8w7 weights 17 lbs...my TC Sounds TC2 weighs like 15 and its a 10. The TC-1000 is probably a lil lighter. I dont think 15 lbs makes much of a difference. Yes, I know it will, but if you're hardcore into performance, then you wouldn't have an audio system at all :fyi:

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I wasnt saying to compare weight of 1 8'' sub against 6x9

 

instead of someone getting an overpowering sloppy, distorted box full of 12s (50lbs or more) you could go an easier route and just get good quality 6x9s and save money on getting other crap.

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I wasnt saying to compare weight of 1 8'' sub against 6x9

 

instead of someone getting an overpowering sloppy, distorted box full of 12s (50lbs or more) you could go an easier route and just get good quality 6x9s and save money on getting other crap.

 

You just dont get it, and you need to hear it for yourself to realize it. Go to www.realmofexcursion.com. Click on Downloads. Download a 35, 40, and 45 Hz tone. Burn onto a cd. Play them on your 6x9's. Find someone who has a system and play the same thing on their setup. You will notice a huge difference.

 

And plus I'm suggesting him an 8" 15 lb woofer, he's even got an 8" 17 lb woofer. Sure, you have to account for the weight of the box, the JL requires 1 cu. ft. i believe but the TC-1000 only needs .3 cubic feet, thats hardly gonna weigh anything.

 

And just because you have multiple subs, doesnt mean you have sloppy bass..sloppy bass as you refer to it, is distortion and that happens when you give the speaker too much power by turning up your HU too much or having your gains on the amp set too high.

 

You clearly don't know much about audio, there is no point on commenting on it if you dont know what youre talkin about. I have no idea about engines and mechanics of speed for a vehicle, but you dont see me goin in other topics running my mouth giving suggestions.

 

PS: you can have a 6x9 sound "sloppy" as well. And really, 350w is nothing overpowering, unless your giving that to 6x9 or any midrange that cant handle it, which the majority cant. If you have sloppy bass, maybe youre trunk or panels are vibrating, thus, there is sound deadening. You must have no idea how little 300w of power is, i'm not saying put 1,000-2,500w of power.

 

Maybe this will help...he wants subs that go boooooom, boooooom, not bmm bmm bmm.

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i told what i thought was a very helpful informative setup without having a giant box full of sound in a trunk that's not that big in the first place.

 

i know enough i just dont read up on subwoofers because i personally dont care

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I wasnt saying to compare weight of 1 8'' sub against 6x9

 

instead of someone getting an overpowering sloppy, distorted box full of 12s (50lbs or more) you could go an easier route and just get good quality 6x9s and save money on getting other crap.

 

what are you talking about dude???? sloppy overpowering???? have you no clue how to install a SQ set up??? 6x9s if anything are the worst to get for mids. They are too boomy and most 6x9's are prone to cone flex because of their retarded oval shape. Im sorry dude, but you obviously have no clue what you are talking about. Research and learn a thing or two before you toss out advice. . because what you are saying is way off base and couldnt be any further from the truth

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Hmmm... Theres a few people in this thread that need to go rub one out. Too much built up frustration...

 

And Billy is right, if you're hardcore into making your car fast a system is not for you. And Don, how are you supposed to tell us what this guy wants in his car if he hasn't told you.( Referring to earlier post pre-PM) If you just want good sound quality without waking up the whole neighborhood, then just upgrade factory components. Which in a Sol are 6 1/2s BTW, no 6X9s. And they are some damn good speakers out there that do a fine job at making sure the person in the car can hear everything, down to the last note, without broadcasting the music to everyone else.

 

And don't start flaming me, I'm putting my info out there in case this guy is just going for good sound quality without blowing over a grand on a setup.

 

And I know Ohm's law BTW...

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Hmmm... Theres a few people in this thread that need to go rub one out. Too much built up frustration...

 

And Billy is right, if you're hardcore into making your car fast a system is not for you. And Don, how are you supposed to tell us what this guy wants in his car if he hasn't told you.( Referring to earlier post pre-PM) If you just want good sound quality without waking up the whole neighborhood, then just upgrade factory components. Which in a Sol are 6 1/2s BTW, no 6X9s. And they are some damn good speakers out there that do a fine job at making sure the person in the car can hear everything, down to the last note, without broadcasting the music to everyone else.

 

And don't start flaming me, I'm putting my info out there in case this guy is just going for good sound quality without blowing over a grand on a setup.

 

And I know Ohm's law BTW...

 

I won't flame you, I'm nice :D

 

And you're right, if he wants some nice sound, a simple upgrade and focusing on the front stage would be a great idea to save some weight. I would go active, but definitely use an amp to get that SQ, the HU won't cut it.

 

As for why I suggested what I mentioned, he said he wants peformance, by that I thought he meant sq, not spl. It's easy for someone that doesnt know much about car audio to mix up words or say what they think is right, its very understandable, we were all there before as well. He also mentioned having a JL sub (which i thought he was planning on getting, not actually owning). If you want speed for a vehicle and you are strictly for speed, then a system is not for him or anyone for that matter, I stated that in one of my last posts I believe. Also there will be a noticeable difference no matter what anyone says between not having a sub and having a sub. A midrange just wont play a 40 Hz tone that well.

 

I suggested and Audison SRX-1, a TC-1000 (which only needs .3 cubic ft as opposed to the 1 cu. ft. the 8w7 needs), and either adding some 2 way coaxials and running of the head unit or just adding a small amp to the factory speakers. He can sell the 8w7 if he wanted, and buy the audison and tc for 300 bucks. I'd say add another 200 for install, wiring, and either an additional amp, some 2 ways, or components. And he'll still have money to leftover with the 500. If he keeps the 8w7, thats fine, he can use it, but its going to require a larger enclosure, take up more room, and weigh a lil bit more.

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Hmmm... Theres a few people in this thread that need to go rub one out. Too much built up frustration...

 

i dont think its as much frustration then it is people who actually know car audio shaking our heads at people who know nothing about car audio. . yet they seem to talk like they know

 

And Billy is right, if you're hardcore into making your car fast a system is not for you.

 

its already been established that he already has the sub. obviously the OP WANTS a system.

 

And Don, how are you supposed to tell us what this guy wants in his car if he hasn't told you.( Referring to earlier post pre-PM)

 

Don made good suggestions. it wasnt like he was TELLING the OP what he needs to get. Whats wrong with throwing different options out there?

 

If you just want good sound quality without waking up the whole neighborhood, then just upgrade factory components.

[

you can have a better SQ setup including a sub without "waking up the neighborhood" 1 8 or 10" sub is not asking alot. its not going to add much weight, dont take alot of power, and wont be extremely loud with a SQ setup. So why do you dudes keep telling this kid to stick with some door speakers and a head unit????? obviously, HE WANTS A SUB

 

Which in a Sol are 6 1/2s BTW, no 6X9s. And they are some damn good speakers out there that do a fine job at making sure the person in the car can hear everything, down to the last note, without broadcasting the music to everyone else.

 

Find one mid that can play a 32hz sweep. . Ill leave this site if your able to find just ONE

 

And don't start flaming me, I'm putting my info out there in case this guy is just going for good sound quality without blowing over a grand on a setup

 

a decent head unit, wiring, and mids can easily blow a grand.

 

you guys that think a head unit and some infinity speakers gives you a good "SQ" setup. . honestly. . dont know crap. it may sound good to people who have no clue what a good sounding setup actually sounds like. .

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you guys that think a head unit and some infinity speakers gives you a good "SQ" setup. . honestly. . dont know crap. it may sound good to people who have no clue what a good sounding setup actually sounds like. .

 

Exactly, people who don't know car audio think what they got is good or the best theyve heard is one of the best. Some guy running 2 12's with "1000w" thought his system was good..little did he know that he was distorting the hell out of the speakers and he was amazed that my single 12 on 500w was REALLY loud, when in fact, i was in the low 130 db range.

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i said pretty much the same damn thing keegan did just in a more personal opinion sort of way.

 

i know enough and kappa perfects are my favorite 6x9s and have an amazing sound.

 

You never mentioned anything about components....and i guess you missed the part where I told him that the frequency difference between a midrange and subwoofer are very different. From what I know, there are a few mids that will play a 50hz tone well. Since we're on the subject of "6x9's" and infinity at that...heres a video of my infinity kappa 6x9, hope you like it.

 

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  • 1 year later...
You just dont get it, and you need to hear it for yourself to realize it. Go to www.realmofexcursion.com. Click on Downloads. Download a 35, 40, and 45 Hz tone. Burn onto a cd. Play them on your 6x9's. Find someone who has a system and play the same thing on their setup. You will notice a huge difference.

 

And plus I'm suggesting him an 8" 15 lb woofer, he's even got an 8" 17 lb woofer. Sure, you have to account for the weight of the box, the JL requires 1 cu. ft. i believe but the TC-1000 only needs .3 cubic feet, thats hardly gonna weigh anything.

 

And just because you have multiple subs, doesnt mean you have sloppy bass..sloppy bass as you refer to it, is distortion and that happens when you give the speaker too much power by turning up your HU too much or having your gains on the amp set too high.

 

You clearly don't know much about audio, there is no point on commenting on it if you dont know what youre talkin about. I have no idea about engines and mechanics of speed for a vehicle, but you dont see me goin in other topics running my mouth giving suggestions.

 

PS: you can have a 6x9 sound "sloppy" as well. And really, 350w is nothing overpowering, unless your giving that to 6x9 or any midrange that cant handle it, which the majority cant. If you have sloppy bass, maybe youre trunk or panels are vibrating, thus, there is sound deadening. You must have no idea how little 300w of power is, i'm not saying put 1,000-2,500w of power.

 

Maybe this will help...he wants subs that go boooooom, boooooom, not bmm bmm bmm.

 

 

 

Hey Junior ..... I am new to the music world and I feel that ur statements make a lot of sense. I have done physics in college and thereby agree with ur comments. I have upgraded my factory system in my 08 Accord EXL which came with premium sound. It however does not sound good without adding a sub. I have C5 650X in the rear and Alpine 17REF SPX in the front- all these driven by the Alpine PDX 4.150 . I have also installed a Alpine PXE H650 processor. Waiting to get the sub - JL 8WL installed - which will be powered with an Alpine PDX 2.150. Pls give me suggestions to make any changes to this to make the sound better.... if there are any options.

Thanks.

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