Need some help with prices...

[compuvision02]

Hey all,

 

So Dan and I were talking at work about the future of my EH2. I was getting a little discouraged, since just my turbo motor build, and not even the exact way I would like it to be, is going to be around $8,000 without shipping, including install. I am taking out a loan, but I think the maximum my parents will allow is $7,500. I was thinking about selling it, taking the loan out, and then buying a 240SX with a SR20DET or a GC Impreza wagon with a RWD STi swap, since I really miss RWD and tire burning. But I really think that I will be turboing my car. Dan thinks I can do it for less, but I think what I have now is pretty bare, but still keeping decent quality. Let me know if you know of lower prices or have other opinions.

 

Peak Boost AC Ram Horn Manifold ($900)

Peak Boost FTW Downpipe and Dumptube ($420)

QTP Electric Cutout ($???, guessing around $100)

Garrett T3/TO4E 60 Trim Turbo ($620)

Tial 38mm Wastegate ($210)

HKS SSQV Blow Off Valve ($215)

PWR 18x6x3 Intercooler ($380)

Tuner Toys Charge Pipe Kit [Needs To Be Welded] ($90)

Stealth Mode Turbo Oil Line Kit ($85)

Thermal Research & Development 3" Turbo Exhaust ($575)

Koyo Radiator ($330)

Slim Line 12" Fan ($55)

Precision Turbo 880cc Fuel Injectors (~$300)

BDL Fuel Rail ($130)

Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump ($90)

B&M CommandFlo Fuel Pressure Regulator ($50)

B&M Fuel Pressure Gauge ($35)

GM 3 Bar MAP Sensor and Wiring Pigtail ($130)

Greddy Full Auto Turbo Timer ($85)

Greddy Profec B Spec II Boost Controller ($346)

Prosport Electrical Boost Gauge ($55)

Prosport Electrical Oil Pressure Gauge ($38)

Prosport Air Fuel Ratio Gauge ($43)

Prosport Exhaust Gas Temperature Gauge ($90)

Prosport 52mm Mounting Cups [4] ($36)

ARP Head Studs ($115)

ARP Rod Bolts ($70)

Rocket Motorsports Rods ($375)

ACL Bearings ($105)

CP 81.5mm 9.0:1 Compression Pistons

OEM Head Gasket ($???, guessing around $60)

Honed Block ($???, guessing around $100)

Welding Charge Pipes ($???, guessing around $100)

J-K-Tuning NepTune ($300)

Installation ($???)

 

Also, I guess I can use my 3" test pipe from my Type-R header for this setup? And for some of the parts, like the exhaust, I am going to look for used. Some of the stuff I want new though, like the turbo, so I know nothing is wrong. I wish I could do more, I really wanted wheels, seats, and brakes, but this looks like the narrowed down list, which needs to be worked on a little still. I hate cars, so much money! I can sell some of my stuff as well, so we shall see what I can do in terms of helping that way. Let me know what you think.

[..SSR..]

RM rods come with rod bolts.

BLock will have to be bored an honed.

[compuvision02]

Stock bore is 80mm right? Got any 80mm 9.0:1 pistons? I'm not sure if I am going to have the money to get the block bored...

[cranny]

stock is 81. you know what dude , 8000 is sillynous , your going off the hook. half the stuff on that list you can either get made for you for half or less what you have for a price , or dont need. almost all aftermarket rods come with arp bolts in compu. you definitely dont need a 900 dollar manifold. thats just going off the deep end. keep practicality in mind man , not just having the namest brand of every component.

 

-your block bored and honed to fit whatever pistons you get will be around 250 bucks total. im going by rates were used to around here , most likely comparable.

-you have head gasket listed , when in fact with what your doing youl need a full engine gasket kit pretty near , 50 bucks on ebay for a whole kit , eristic.

-you dont need gas temp. gauge.

-you dont need a boost controller at all really.

-im not sure how much power you plan on running , but you most likely dont need an aftermarket fuel rail.

-unless you plan on having over 500hp , RC750 injectors and cheaper and will work fine.

-golden eagle headstuds are just as good as ARP , and they are cheaper.

-i know guys running 25lbs , over 500 horse to the wheels , still running a stock civic half rad with no problems dude. fuk the radiator.

-fuk the 600 dollar exhaust you can prolly get made at any local shop for 250. i mean its only a straight pipe dude , lol , hard to fuk that up.

-you can have downpipe made for you also.

-you must be able to find an intercooler cheaper than that? try ebay for some of this dude.

 

how much exactly are these RM rods SSR? im dead curious? if you can afford it dude , go with wiseco or arias pistons.

[..SSR..]

stock is 81. you know what dude , 8000 is sillynous , your going off the hook. half the stuff on that list you can either get made for you for half or less what you have for a price , or dont need. almost all aftermarket rods come with arp bolts in compu. you definitely dont need a 900 dollar manifold. thats just going off the deep end. keep practicality in mind man , not just having the namest brand of every component. Equal length will make a lot more top end than a log

 

-your block bored and honed to fit whatever pistons you get will be around 250 bucks total. im going by rates were used to around here , most likely comparable.

-you have head gasket listed , when in fact with what your doing youl need a full engine gasket kit pretty near , 50 bucks on ebay for a whole kit , eristic. Quality is cheap on ebay gasket kits

-you dont need gas temp. gauge. Who cares what youe EGT is when doing 5th gear highway pulls?

-you dont need a boost controller at all really. Boost by gear is nice

-im not sure how much power you plan on running , but you most likely dont need an aftermarket fuel rail.

-unless you plan on having over 500hp , RC750 injectors and cheaper and will work fine.

-golden eagle headstuds are just as good as ARP , and they are cheaper.

-i know guys running 25lbs , over 500 horse to the wheels , still running a stock civic half rad with no problems dude. fuk the radiator.

-fuk the 600 dollar exhaust you can prolly get made at any local shop for 250. i mean its only a straight pipe dude , lol , hard to fuk that up.

-you can have downpipe made for you also.

-you must be able to find an intercooler cheaper than that? try ebay for some of this dude.

 

how much exactly are these RM rods SSR? im dead curious? if you can afford it dude , go with wiseco or arias pistons.CP's are better than Wiseco and Arias. Can't post price on rods as its under MSRP.

[Pyrorocketeer]

I agree with cranny with the IM.... thats just a waste to spend that on a "high performance" intake manifold. you could spend a grand on a "race" intake and exhaust, when you can make the same power from just 1 more lb of boost....... waste of money.

 

we've had the argument before. the $$/hp gained is not worth it in the least bit.

 

Edit....

 

do you need the electric cutout?

or the Stealth oil lines

or the rad

or the fuel pressure gauge, or the regulator

or the turbo timer

or the air fuel ratio gauge

or the boost controller?

[cranny]

yeah good call i forgot to mention the oil lines pyro , i was thinking it. any hydrolic shop would be glad to gear you up a few lines man , for dollars. he needs fuel pressure regulator which usually comes with a gauge. he needs air/fuel ratio gauge , i would for piece of mind , i would wanna know whats going on with my car. NEG on the turbo timer , lol.

[90IntegraC1]

Hey all,

 

InlinePRO Cast Iron T3 5-bolt Turbo Manifold ($500)-->InlinePRO

Mighty Muffler 3" Turbo-back Exhaust (~$250)

Garrett T3/TO4E 60 Trim Turbo ($620)

Tial 38mm Wastegate ($210)

HKS SSQV Blow Off Valve ($215)

31.5" x 12" x 3" FMIC ($120 shipped)-->e-bay motors FMIC

Tuner Toys Charge Pipe Kit [Needs To Be Welded] ($90)

DSM 450cc injectors ($100 on e-baymotors)

Stock Fuel Rail (Free)

Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump ($90)

B&M CommandFlo Fuel Pressure Regulator ($40)-->mine was this price from Harry Tillman's speed in Aston

B&M Fuel Pressure Gauge ($35)

GM 3 Bar MAP Sensor and Wiring Pigtail ($130)

Perrin Manual Boost Controller ($70)-->Harry Tillman's Speed in Aston

Prosport Electrical Boost Gauge ($55)

Prosport Electrical Oil Pressure Gauge ($38)

Prosport Air Fuel Ratio Gauge ($43)

Prosport 52mm Mounting Cups [4] ($36)

ARP Head Studs ($115)

Eagle Rods ($330)-->Eagle Rods

ACL Bearings ($105)

CP 81.5mm 9.0:1 Compression Pistons ($500)-->e-baymotors

OEM Head Gasket ($75)-->Acura Dealer

Bored to 81.5mm + Hone ($250-->according to Cranny)

Welding Charge Pipes ($???, guessing around $100)

J-K-Tuning NepTune ($300)

Installation ($???)

 

Comes out to $4,417.00 before shipping and install...if this were my build...

[compuvision02]

you definitely dont need a 900 dollar manifold. thats just going off the deep end. keep practicality in mind man , not just having the namest brand of every component.

 

To be honest, I never really heard much about Peak Boost, my tuner recommended that manifold to me. Any suggestions besides that? I may still go with it, since he highly recommended it and I trust this guy, he knows I am trying to be easy on money, since he told me to get that piece together charge pipe kit instead of spending $400-500 for a ready kit.

 

 

-you dont need gas temp. gauge.

 

I didn't think so, my friend said I should, but I thought it was not completely needed. I mean, I could use many gauges, but it isn't all neccessary.

 

-you dont need a boost controller at all really.

 

I do want one though, I am going to be daily driving this, I want to be tuned at like 7psi daily and then tuned for race. I am going to want to be able to go back and forth when I want.

 

-im not sure how much power you plan on running , but you most likely dont need an aftermarket fuel rail.

-unless you plan on having over 500hp , RC750 injectors and cheaper and will work fine.

 

Didn't think so, but someone told me to go with one. I will subtract that.

I plan on making around 400whp for race, my tuner said go 880cc, I was going to go 550cc, but he said it wouldn't make that much of a difference down the road.

 

-fuk the 600 dollar exhaust you can prolly get made at any local shop for 250. i mean its only a straight pipe dude , lol , hard to fuk that up.

 

I am going to go used for that, around $300. I like that exhaust tone, I want something chill, not "blahhh" like I got now.

[compuvision02]

31.5" x 12" x 3" FMIC ($120 shipped)-->e-bay motors FMIC

DSM 450cc injectors ($100 on e-baymotors)

Perrin Manual Boost Controller ($70)-->Harry Tillman's Speed in Aston

 

That is a huge intercooler...

I will talk to John, J-K, about DSM injectors, I know he probably has a set laying around somewhere.

I'm not going to argue about the boost controller again, but I hate manual, period. Haha.

[..SSR..]

RM rods > Eagle

 

Why would you get CP Pistons from ebay when I'm a dealer?

 

550cc won't be big enough. There are 2.0 NA builds maxing out 500cc's.

[compuvision02]

Ah okay, well guess that's why I was told 880cc. I don't fuss with what my tuner tells me, he knows his crap and I respect his thoughts. He obviously knows what is good and bad, what reacts well to what, etc., since he is a tuner. Besides Jeff Evans, Evans-Tuning, he is the only other east coast dealer of NepTune, which is huge! Evans was promised the east coast NepTune "scene," but something happened I guess, it's big that John, J-K-Tuning, was right behind him.

 

SSR, do you think I should go with the Peak Boost manifold and downpipe?

[compuvision02]

And only reason I want a turbo timer, is because most cases I am "on the run" and can't afford that 30 seconds to a minute to sit there. Also, do I need a fuel pressure regulator?

 

Hopefully I can get the charge pipes welded for around $50 and hopefully my mechanic can do my stuff for a good deal for me. Plus, I really hope he can do the pistons/bearings/rods install to cut down prices from other people He says he can do the pistons/rods, but I have no idea about bearings; I truthfully don't know what you need to do for them.

[Pyrorocketeer]

To be honest, I never really heard much about Peak Boost, my tuner recommended that manifold to me. Any suggestions besides that? I may still go with it, since he highly recommended it and I trust this guy, he knows I am trying to be easy on money, since he told me to get that piece together charge pipe kit instead of spending $400-500 for a ready kit.

 

to be honest with you, you'd be better off buying a set of cams, than a IM. which you completly left out of the build btw.....

i can't believe that you guys run a turbo with stock cams.

 

and no one give me the bs about how so and so's making x ammount of hp on stock cams. look at any other engine v8's for example. whats one of the first things to do to make a sh!t load more power....upgrade the cams! These little works of art are a direct effect to how your engine makes power, and you hardly ever hear of anyone changing cams around here.

 

I do want one though, I am going to be daily driving this, I want to be tuned at like 7psi daily and then tuned for race. I am going to want to be able to go back and forth when I want.

 

Do you guys even have ability to run 2 seperate maps?

 

want fuel economy....keep your foot out of it

[compuvision02]

Wow, you can't read. One, I already have an intake manifold, the manifold that is $900 is a crutial part of turboing the car. I guess you may call it a header, but I call it a manifold. Second, I already have camshafts, Buddy Club Spec III Plus, which is a little more aggressive then Type-R camshafts and from what I hear, pretty decent for turbo, although they aren't turbo specific camshafts.

 

I believe that they tune of high boost and low boost and find a mid point, so when you switch to low boost, it will be good, as if you went high. I'm not going for the fuel economy with high and low boost, I just don't want to be beating the f*ck out of my car and spooling the turbo to build too much boost for no reason. If I punch it on the highway to get through a hole, I don't want to be pushing 15psi+ of boost, I want 7psi.

[Ben.]

I thought BCIII's required high compression for optimum efficieny?

[compuvision02]

Maybe the Spec IV's. The Spec III Plus's don't even need an aftermarket valvetrain. I've seen people on Honda-Tech turbo cars with these camshafts and get great outcomes. Literally, the lift is a little bigger then Type-R camshafts which a lot of people run for turbo.

 

tubular fullrace style mani, t3/t04e with a gt series wheel (0.48ar, 58 exhaust [he thinks]), evans downpipe, evans ic piping, jet hot coated ic piping, mitsubishi sterion intercooler

 

He made 289whp on bolt-ons only LS, stock block. I mean, I can pick that stuff up for $500, which isn't bad. Only things I would use would be the manifold possibly, the turbo, and downipipe. I doubt the intercooler piping from a DC2 style Integra would be anything like what I would need. I think that manifold was air conditioning compatiable too. I could probably sell off the intercooler piping, blowoff valve, and intercooler.

[TS John]

I can't even imagine spending this kind of money for a turbo build. I mean, yeah it'll be a fast car, but weren't you just complaining about how you wanted a new car anyway?

[Kegger]

JE RamHorn Mani + All new fuel stuff = $650-$700

 

Word.

[Pyrorocketeer]

next time try describing whether its an Intake MANIFOLD, or exhaust MANIFOLD......

 

as i'm not familiar with honda after market manufacturers, i had no idea wtf you were trying to say.

[compuvision02]

A ram horn manifold is pretty obvious to be a turbo/exhaust manifold, since one, they don't make ram horn intake manifolds, and two this is relevant to the turbo setup and there is no other mentioning of a turbo manifold, which is needed. Sorry for the confusion.

[..SSR..]

You're going to want to get rid of those cams.

 

Just an example, boosted BVTEC's with RM M22X cams have peaked in the 11k range.

 

Big cams + boost = hot rod race type engine, not too fun on the street.

[compuvision02]

These aren't big camshafts though...

 

BC3+:

Intake:

Duration: 296

Lift: 11.4mm

 

Exhaust:

Duration: 290

Lift: 11.8mm

 

ITR:

Intake:

Duration: 240

Lift: 11.5mm

 

Exhaust:

Duration: 235

Lift: 10.5mm

[compuvision02]

I might be able to trade camshafts with someone if need be. Maybe find some turbo camshafts and trade straight up or just CTR/ITR camshafts and get a little extra money. 99.9% sure my friend Mike would trade me his CTR camshafts for my BC3's.

[..SSR..]

Where are they measured at?