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I'm doing the brakes all the way around on the dx sedan and i'm ordering the parts in the next day or two. I wondered what personal opinions anyone had on which rotors/pads you have tried and liked or had problems with?

 

Obviously I can google my way to finding the parts, i just wondered what some guys with experiences had as an input.

 

When I think rotors the first two that come to mind for me are Brembo and Powerslot, both of which are a bit more expensive then what I had in mind. A little googling found R1 Concepts. The prices were better. But its more of a small operation and I couldn't find anything on their reliability or quality.

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bah, oem shmoem :p

 

if i'm doing a rear wheel conversion to discs i sure in the hell am not putting plain oem on it. I guess I should have commented on that....hrmm, incomplete information and trying to ask for advice....what a noob

 

rear wheel disc conversion in process. Entire control arm assembly and hub from a 93 teg being cleaned up for an install. Running new teg brake lines, replacing the prop valve and the booster with one from a 95 si. new front axles, f&r rotors, new shocks and coilovers.

 

why? because i can and i want to. and its something not every one in town has done, so at least i will subtly be a little unique.

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bah, oem shmoem :p

 

if i'm doing a rear wheel conversion to discs i sure in the hell am not putting plain oem on it. I guess I should have commented on that....hrmm, incomplete information and trying to ask for advice....what a noob

 

rear wheel disc conversion in process. Entire control arm assembly and hub from a 93 teg being cleaned up for an install. Running new teg brake lines, replacing the prop valve and the booster with one from a 95 si. new front axles, f&r rotors, new shocks and coilovers.

 

why? because i can and i want to. and its something not every one in town has done, so at least i will subtly be a little unique.

You may dislike OEM all you want, but if you don't have a car that's noticeably faster than stock, then you don't need brakes better than stock. Extra expense for the sake of it is just plain stupid. As for converting to discs, I would never complain about something like that. I often thought about doing it myself. Even more reason that OEM is more than adequate.

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You may dislike OEM all you want, ...

 

I don't dislike anything. And hopefully car will be anything but stock.

 

I can pick up raybestos or bendix oem style for like $35-40 a rotor, or go with something more perf oriented for not much more, unless i am going with a high performance setup. or go something like these guys for no more money r1 concepts i wouldn't necessarily get the drill/slot, maybe just the slot. I've heard (although never found anything for proof) that drilling greatly reduces rotor life. Makes them prone to cracking and warping.

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Unless you have major motor upgrades, OEM.

damn man don't be a prick just answer the question.

 

x3772 if you want to prevent brake fade, then steal braided lines would be a good investment. rubber lines get hot and stretch, meaning you loose pressure. drilled rotors have holes that allow air to blow through the rotor, aiding and cooling. i dunno if slotted rotors aid in cooling but i know that the little knotches scuff brake pads up so that they have a fresh surface for better friction. now i've heard that cheaper drilled rotors have weak points due to the holes and crack, so remember, with anything you get what you pay for. keep in mind that brakes are prolly the most important safety feature on a car, so don't skimp out on them or you will hurt yourself and otehr people.

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OEM style Brembo blanks are the best deal and will give you the same, if not better stopping power than CD or Slotted rotors.

 

Ceramic pads and just having the brembo blanks have made cross-drilling obsolete and not worth it.

 

Honda-tech.com has brembo blank rotors for about 20-30 dollars each.

 

and a GSR rear disc conversion would be a good idea too.

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well, the gsr brakes are the same as the gs ones i have now. the only difference is the mc, booster and prop valve.

 

The issue i am looking at now is if i should splurge and find a teg conversion for the front too. I didn't realize it, but the stock dx rotors on the front are 9.5 and the rear teg rotors i have are 10.4. It wouldn't make much of a difference if i do not replace my prop valve and booster, as they will still be set up for drum operation which causes a slightly delayed brake response for the rear brakes, which ends up offsetting the fact that you can get a little more bite from the rears.

 

thanks for the tip on the cheaper priced brembos

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Brembo OE Brake Rotors

 

Brembo OE "blank" rotors offer better performance than Cross-drilled rotors. Cross-drilled rotors might look "cool", but what are they really doing for performance? Brake rotors were first "drilled" in the 40's and 50's because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, which is called "gassing out". These gasses then formed a thin layer between the brake pad face and the rotor, effectively lowering the coefficient of friction. The "cross drilled" holes were implemented to give the gasses a place to escape. Todays brake pad materials do not exhibit the same gassing out problems as these early (old) pads. Also, there are many companies that sell "cheap" cross-drilled and slotted rotors. They do this by purchasing Brembo blanks and having them cheaply altered by a third party. Doing this sacrifices the rotors structural integrity, and can be a huge safety risk. If you contact Brembo, they will not recognize these discs after they have been altered. These rotors are known to crack and warp very quickly. If you want the actual Brembo cross drilled and slotted rotors you will be paying much more. That's why these blanks are perfect; they perform better, do not tear through pads, are priced much lower, and are much safer. Get yourself a set today!

 

honda-tech.com

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Brembo OE Brake Rotors

 

Brembo OE "blank" rotors offer better performance than Cross-drilled rotors. Cross-drilled rotors might look "cool", but what are they really doing for performance? Brake rotors were first "drilled" in the 40's and 50's because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, which is called "gassing out". These gasses then formed a thin layer between the brake pad face and the rotor, effectively lowering the coefficient of friction. The "cross drilled" holes were implemented to give the gasses a place to escape. Todays brake pad materials do not exhibit the same gassing out problems as these early (old) pads. Also, there are many companies that sell "cheap" cross-drilled and slotted rotors. They do this by purchasing Brembo blanks and having them cheaply altered by a third party. Doing this sacrifices the rotors structural integrity, and can be a huge safety risk. If you contact Brembo, they will not recognize these discs after they have been altered. These rotors are known to crack and warp very quickly. If you want the actual Brembo cross drilled and slotted rotors you will be paying much more. That's why these blanks are perfect; they perform better, do not tear through pads, are priced much lower, and are much safer. Get yourself a set today!

 

they contradict themselves through the whole paragraph.....

 

they first tell you to not get them, then say about the gassing out. then they tell you that todays pads don't do that. THEN after bashing drilled and slotted rotors, they tell you that they offer them for a ton of money..... WTF?

 

get a better source than hondatech.....

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Nearly all of the physics I have read on the subject note that cross drilling theoretically offers more cooling, but in reality is does less cooling. They cool less do to the fact that there is less surface area for the heat to dissipate to. And the heat transfers through the metal of the rotor faster then it transfers to the air. In addition to making the rotor generally weaker by drilling holes in it (or casting them in some cases) and prone to cracking being weaker and then over heating, the rotors can also crack from air expansion. After a hard braking run and the pads are heated to the max and you come to a full stop at a stop light and you have the brake pedal held down, those little pockets of what was cool air are now expanding rapidly as the air goes from being outdoor air temp to whatever absurd temp your brakes happen to be.

 

everyone sites that such and such performance car maker puts them on this car or that car. Keep in mind that Porsche, Ferrari and whatever are selling an image more then they are selling a car that will be driven fast. Take a close look at those same companies actual race cars and you will never see a drilled rotor, ever.

 

Long story short: I am with the guys on this one - blanks are better (they just don't look as neat though :/ )

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two minutes worth of googling says differently....

 

corvette's racing team says they use cross drilled rotors

 

look for yourself.....

 

OH SNAP!

 

brakes cost around 10k for them btw.... or so discovery channel says..... they do their R&D before they blow that kind of money on brakes.

 

EDIT: reading comprehension what? dude, read it again they tell you that drilled/slotted suck, then they say that they off them for lots of $$$.....

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damn man don't be a prick just answer the question.

Reading comprehension much? That *is* an answer. Might not be one that you or he likes, but it is an applicable one.

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right back at ya. The site you linked to confirmed what I said. Their track car uses carbon rotors that are not crossdrilled. The street z06 uses drilled rotors. Its an asthetic thing, not a performance thing. They are selling the image of being cool.

 

pwnt :p

 

btw, kastigir, your suggestion, a little from EBP_EM1 and a ton of my own researching lead me to the point where I will likely will be putting blanks on the car, but will try and go with a nice name like a brembo OE style. They actually only cost a couple dollars more then the local NAPA specials.

 

keep it coming guys. trying so see what you think about my rears being larger then the fronts and what kind of mess i'm gonna get myself into if I leave them that way.

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keep it coming guys. trying so see what you think about my rears being larger then the fronts and what kind of mess i'm gonna get myself into if I leave them that way.

Not sure that it will get you into any *mess*, Probably just look funky.

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